Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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May 13, 2013 | #16 | |
Tomatopalooza™ Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NC-Zone 7
Posts: 2,188
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Does this mean they survived your squishing? If so, squish harder! With only one or two plants on a balcony, I would think this is really the best solution... although it sounds like you might have to do it every morning for a week to get it under control. Do you have ants that are transporting the aphids to your plants? I've seen this before, especially on the purple hull cow peas..... Good luck! Lee
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Intelligence is knowing a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing not to put one in a fruit salad. Cuostralee - The best thing on sliced bread. |
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May 13, 2013 | #17 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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All those predators are effective and available for sale the same as any chemical insecticide. They are more expensive, but have the added benefit of persisting once the population stabilizes. If you insist on taking the short term chemical approach. That's fine. But keep in mind ants will spread aphids too. No spray will work unless you also deal with the ants which farm aphids. We milk cows. Ants milk aphids. Now for biological approaches, I try to use trap crops. ie things that attract aphids but that aphids seldom actually kill. In my location that is sunflowers. Sunflowers are too tough to let aphids kill them, but the aphids around here really like them, especially when it starts getting hot and dry. So once I see a sunflower with aphids I simply put Diatomaceous Earth around the base of the plant in a circle barrier to discourage the ant protectors. That lets my predators go to town on them without having to fight with the ants. Those lady bugs reproduce, fly away, and pick off any starting aphid colonies elsewhere in the garden. Works about ~80% +/- of the time like a charm. The other 20% of the time I try to use some method that discourages aphids rather than kills them. Extremely hot home made hot pepper spray seems to do the trick. I take some super hots, put them in a blender with hot water and a bit of vodka. Then I filter the resulting mix with a coffee filter. Spray that on the plants being attacked and aphids have a tendency to find a weed somewhere to attack instead.
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture Last edited by Redbaron; May 13, 2013 at 01:53 PM. |
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May 16, 2013 | #18 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Southlake, TX
Posts: 743
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On the bright side the aphids are under control again, and I've eradicated them from the borage. I think I just need to keep spraying more often than I was, and follow the advice to keep squishing them when I see them. As a precaution I'm spraying the tomato plants sparingly with the oil spray to prevent any aphids from jumping ship. I may step it up to a stronger spray if that doesn't work- I'll probably try the malathilon or the ferti-lome triple action II which is stronger than their triple action I that I'm using. |
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May 16, 2013 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Personally, I would avoid the use of Malathion. From Wikipedia: "Malathion itself is of low toxicity; however, absorption or ingestion into the human body readily results in its metabolism to malaoxon, which is substantially more toxic."
Instead, consider the use of Take Down Garden Spray which is canola oil based. Raybo |
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