What Soil to start seedlings?

[Foose4string]

I have used the Miracle Grow seed starting soil for the past 2 years without any ill effects. Prior to that, regular ol' MG potting soil once or twice. Before that, Jiffy pellets. Never had any issues with gnats or any other insects. I much prefer using the plastic cells and soil over Jiffy pellets. I've had better luck with soil over pellets. Perhaps I will try the Jiffy seed starting soil next year, or maybe another brand if it presents itself. I don't think it matters much. I have a few packs of seed that are 10 years old and still viable. A little slow to wake compared to fresher seed, but completely viable. Point is, the seed doesn't know what name is printed on the bag or care what the medium is. I am with Durgan on that one. As long it can form a root and take in nutrients, the seedling is happy.

[loulac]

Durgan wrote : At one time I used to use plain old garden soil. Now I modify since ingredients are readily available.

I quite agree with Durgan, plain garden soil is OK. A mix of 1/3 or ½ garden soil with old compost will improve it. No fertilizer, you might burn the seeds. You can pass it through a sieve, prepare it some months before using it. I’ve often been disappointed with mixes bought in stores. Lowest prices should be avoided, the label indicating the composition carefully read., the higher prices can be disappointing. Simple solutions are often the best.

[Father'sDaughter]

Before switching over to DE I used nothing but Miracle Grow Seed Starting Mix and never had a problem. But then I only keep them in it until they have two sets of new leaves and then they go into a larger pot with Miracle Grow Potting Mix until they can go outside. The only time I had a problem with gnats was when I tried up-potting with the Miracle Grow Organic Potting Mix.

[Labradors2]

That's interesting! Maybe the gnats need a certain length of time before they become a real problem and by the time we notice, they are difficult to control.

I also think that if you can water from the bottom it keeps the top dryer. However, I grew my seedlings in paper coffee cups this winter and bottom watering didn't work very well.

Linda

Originally Posted by Father'sDaughter

Before switching over to DE I used nothing but Miracle Grow Seed Starting Mix and never had a problem. But then I only keep them in it until they have two sets of new leaves and then they go into a larger pot with Miracle Grow Potting Mix until they can go outside. The only time I had a problem with gnats was when I tried up-potting with the Miracle Grow Organic Potting Mix.

[Durgan]

Originally Posted by Labradors2

That's interesting! Maybe the gnats a certain length of time before they become a real problem and by the time we notice, they are difficult to control.

I also think that if you can water from the bottom it keeps the top dryer. However, I grew my seedlings in coffee cups this winter and bottom watering didn't work very well.

Linda

Botttom watering works fine if some precautions are taken. I place the coffee cup seedling pots in a large plastic container and fill with water to about 2/3 the height of the coffee cup pot. Leave in the water for a couple of hours. It takes some time before the water permeates the soil. Remove after a couple of hours or longer and place in another plastic container and drain well. This need be done only about once a week. The top of the soil is slightly damp to the touch.

[tnpeppers]

Is anyone else using Urban Farms' Vegetable Fertilizer on their seedlings? I sowed my seed with a misting of a weak VF solution (1/2 tsp/gallon), and the results have been spectacular. I will continue using the Urban Farm products this year, just to see what happens. The Texas Tomato Food worked wonders for me last year, and I am anxious to see what an entire season of using their products does for my tomatoes (and peppers).

[bughunter99]

I'm sorry this has occurred.

I've had issues with both Miracle Grow regular and organic several times and will no longer use either. As others have said, starting mix is key.

Now I either make my own:

• 3 parts coir
• 3 parts vermicompost (sometimes I use my own compost-this year its frozen)
• 1 part perlite
• 1/2 part greensand

Or I buy something that has NO ODOR beyond the smell of fresh soil, no added moisture retention crystals, no added mycorrhizal fungi (I've had issues with products that add this) . I tend to avoid Jiffy as well because it runs too wet for my preferences.


This year I am trying Bacto Lite Premium for some plants in addition to my homemade mix for others. It has some bark chunks and larger bits of perlite but my seedlings are doing well in it. If I pot up, I will be adding my vermicompost to the mix. Fertilization with 1/4 strength Neptunes Organic Fish and Kelp every two weeks.

Epsoma Organic is another I have used in the past with good result, though this has some additives I think.


Stacy

[Cole_Robbie]

Originally Posted by RayR

I'm just guessing but you might have spider mites. They are too small to see with the naked eye, you'll need a 10X or better magnifier and examine the bottom surface of the leaves.

There are I think two most common types of spider mites. One looks black and the other is reddish. I know the black ones can be seen fairly easily without magnification; I think the red can, too, although obviously using a magnifying glass doesn't hurt.

People miss seeing them because they hide on the underside of leaves. When I first got mites, I didn't realize they were mites, because I thought mites were invisible. The ones I had were just nice and fat from eating my plants.

[venturabananas]

I've found coco coir to be pretty darn reliable. Certainly no disease problems or overwatering. If anything, I tend to not keep it moist enough. Just more regular watering fixes that. Once the seedlings are up, they need some weak fert because there aren't many nutrients in this medium.

[ssi912]

I will second fox farm. I use the fox farm ocean forest variety. Metro mix 360 is another goodin. Find a hydroponics store locally. They should have all the preffered mixes. Good luck.

[bny806]

Thank yall so much - this has been incredibly helpful!!!

So, I started new seedlings - Only 3-4 days ago (with heat mat and a top to hold in the humidity). I already have sprouts popping up - do I take off the top so they don't stay too wet - I feel like the soil is very wet.. I have a few vent holes on it.. I just dont' want to open the roots up to damage from being too wet - with what happened last time and all!

[Urbanfarmer]

Originally Posted by bny806

Thank yall so much - this has been incredibly helpful!!!

So, I started new seedlings - Only 3-4 days ago (with heat mat and a top to hold in the humidity). I already have sprouts popping up - do I take off the top so they don't stay too wet - I feel like the soil is very wet.. I have a few vent holes on it.. I just dont' want to open the roots up to damage from being too wet - with what happened last time and all!

High humidity and wet soil surfaces will certainly invite damping off. That's why we only water from the bottom up after seedlings break the surface. This virtually eliminates damping off, at least it has for us. Good luck..........

[venturabananas]

Originally Posted by bny806

Thank yall so much - this has been incredibly helpful!!!

So, I started new seedlings - Only 3-4 days ago (with heat mat and a top to hold in the humidity). I already have sprouts popping up - do I take off the top so they don't stay too wet - I feel like the soil is very wet.. I have a few vent holes on it.. I just dont' want to open the roots up to damage from being too wet - with what happened last time and all!

Take the tops off now. Keep them well watered from the bottom.

[Foose4string]

I take the top off once the majority of the seeds have sprouted. You want the soil to start drying out at that point. As the others have pointed out, you can start watering from the bottom after that. I usually fill the tray with about 1/2 inch of water once I feel the soil has dried adequately. The seedlings will let you know when it's time.

[sergeant69]

Originally Posted by Urbanfarmer

Take the head-scratching out of the equation: use horticultural-grade rockwool cubes or stuff bulk rockwool in starter pots. Water from germination every time with a complete fertilizer at 1/3-1/2 strength. Go to full-strength when they reach 4" tall. Presto! Healthy, no-worry tomato plants.

As long as you have drain holes, you can't overwater rockwool. No bugs, no inherent disease, no drainage problems, no guesswork. Even when soaked, rockwool has a lot of oxygen. Used in professional greenhouses world-wide.

We've used potting mixes, but rockwool is consistent, predictable, and produces massive root growth. Transplants into any medium.

where does one get rockwool cubes?? never heard of it but sure would like to try it. thanks