Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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March 3, 2014 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: MD
Posts: 18
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I'm using well water. I have no idea what the ph is but I do know that there is a lot of calcium in the water. I will do a ph test this weekend. I am running a 2' 6 bulb t5 in this 3x2x3 grow tent now.
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March 4, 2014 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Parma, OH
Posts: 147
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You have fertilizer burn. Hold off for a week and see what happens. Actually, looking at your zone, just stop fertilizing all together and lower the temps big time to stun them.
Or, if you still have seed I would start over in a week or two. May 15th is still 10+ weeks away. You can use the same pots you are using now if you go that route. Just take it easy on the fertilizers. They really don't need it until they show it. |
March 4, 2014 | #18 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Quote:
Which Happy Frog fertilizer were your using? You've got yellowing at the bottom and top leaves? |
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March 4, 2014 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
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I can't speak to deficiency but as jmsieglaff, kevn357 and RayR pointed out you might have a "larger" problem in short order. They will be monsters in a month.
You mention a bigger tent and pots, are the plants outside or in a garage? If possible you should try to get the temps down. Do a search on "cold treatment". Its plenty cold out so if you can keep them between 35 and 50 growth will slow way down. More manageable size, better root structure, less watering and Fert will be needed. |
March 4, 2014 | #20 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern WI
Posts: 2,742
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Quote:
If you don't want to scrap the work you've done thus far you could plant the plants into 5 gallon or larger containers with good mix and grow those tomatoes in containers. Just something to chew on. I plant my tomatoes out typically May 15-20 and start mine on March 30. |
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March 4, 2014 | #21 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: MD
Posts: 18
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Quote:
I was using their tomato fert which is a 7-4-4 I think. Tops and bottom leaves were yellowing. New leaves look nice and green then when they get a little older they start yellowing. |
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March 4, 2014 | #22 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: MD
Posts: 18
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Quote:
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March 4, 2014 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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You mean Happy Frog Tomato and Vegetable 7-4-5? That's an organic granular, not a soluble. It should be mixed into the soil, not with water.
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March 4, 2014 | #24 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Quote:
This will put them in a state of suspended animation. I have done this with the surplus plants I have had as insurance. Now I have to say something that I hope doesn't insult the people that are following this thread and replying to you. (Including me) Every one of them have tried to help and that is great. BUT if I didn't know what I was doing I would be very confused right now from all of the different possible causes of the leaves looking the way they do. I dont see anything wrong with your plants. In my experience I plant seeds +or- 8 weeks before plant out time. Worth |
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March 4, 2014 | #25 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: MD
Posts: 18
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Quote:
I will move my tent into the cold room and hopefully they don't mind the temp change. |
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March 4, 2014 | #26 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Quote:
If you can get something like liquid fish hydrolyzate/seaweed that will help to green them up. The concoction with the granular organic Happy Frog isn't going to work, it's unstable, going anaerobic and is putrefying. The anaerobic metabolites are not good for the plant and they stink like hell. No more Epsom salts and no more molasses, too much sugars are either going to put the plants in shock or cause too much bacterial growth which will rob all the nitrogen from soil. Some bacteria is beneficial, but overpopulation is not what you want. Lowering the soil temperature a bit will slow that down some too. |
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March 4, 2014 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2009
Location: St. Simons Island, Ga.
Posts: 83
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transplant them into bigger cups with a quality potting MIX. jiffy mix stinks except for seed starting. good mixes are pro mix, metro mix 360, anything fox farm just to name a few.
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