Seed Growing Advice Needed - Page 2

Cole_Robbie · January 12, 2015

"Cool white" CFL bulbs work just fine. I would not spend money on more expensive bulbs sold just for plants, at least when growing just seedlings. The seedlings would be happier if you spent that money on more CFLs so they had more light.

A spiral CFL that is 150 "watt equivalent" in size is about $9. A cheap ceramic socket is about $2. A cord is easily scavenged, but a 99 cent extension cord will do the job as well. Pie pans make cheap reflectors.

Sun City Linda · January 12, 2015

I use those bulbs too, I have a collection of salvageable goose neck desk lamps that work great!

Ed of Somis · January 12, 2015

Well, I thought you guys might scold me because I did not post on the "seed" site (didn't see it originally). Instead, you have given me great info...and I appreciate that. Sounds like there are lots of ways to go. I sometimes over-think stuff.

For example: I hunted down 6500k and 3500k (I think) lights last year because I wanted "full spectrum". Not necessary...huh? Anyway, you guys are going to make me crazy with the seed project...and require me to go to therapy.

BigVanVader · January 12, 2015

Quote:

instead of Saran Wrap, which I just can't seem to control, I use the method I use for microgreens, which is to simply invert a standard 10-20 greenhouse flat that has been spritzed over the seedling tray. No dome is necessary, since light is not required for germination.

So simple but quite genius, I fell dumb I never considered that. As for lights I just have some shop lights that I got from an old warehouse building and they work great.

I was a lot like you when I started. I researched everything, looked at different light bulbs, reflective wall coverings, all kinds of stuff. Now years later I think Craigs dense planting method, old salad mix containers, and diatomeceous earth are the holy trinity of successful seed starting. Just be sure to use distilled water and get the under lights asap after they hatch. Good luck and welcome

Ed of Somis · January 12, 2015

thanks B....I never heard anything about distilled water! What is the deal on that?

Sun City Linda · January 12, 2015

I've never used distilled water either. Just hard SoCal tap water.

BigVanVader · January 12, 2015

I use tap but I let it sit for 24 hours so the chlorine etc evaps. I used to get damping off if I used it straight from tap repeatedly. Could just be my water but since I started letting it distill I havent had any problems.

Ed of Somis · January 12, 2015

B...I think you might be confused as to what distilled water is. A loose definition is: Water is boiled, and the steam is then captured to help reduce harmful chemicals and ions.

peebee · January 13, 2015

We live in So. CA so we don't really need all those lights that others in colder places use. I echo Sun City Linda: you just need a heat mat for initial sprouting, and use lights at night for a couple of weeks maybe, just to give them as much light as possible in the beginning. Then I just move my flats outdoors under a light weave canopy to protect from hot sun but still in bright light. Depending on the night temps, I might move them indoors but since cold temps help them get thick stems I tend to leave them out once the weather stabilizes to 55F or so. Keep it simple and take advantage of our natural light and heat. After years of doing this and that, I prefer this lazy laid-back method.
I also use DE for seed sprouting and Craig's dense seed method because both are genius methods. These might be challenging for the novice gardener but I think most will quickly catch on. Since using DE I have never had damping off either.
Regular water for me, with very light fertilizing maybe once or twice after observing the growth.

BigVanVader · January 13, 2015

Yeah sorry for the wrong terminology there, I guess you would call it selective evaporation.

January 12, 2015	#16
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	"Cool white" CFL bulbs work just fine. I would not spend money on more expensive bulbs sold just for plants, at least when growing just seedlings. The seedlings would be happier if you spent that money on more CFLs so they had more light. A spiral CFL that is 150 "watt equivalent" in size is about $9. A cheap ceramic socket is about $2. A cord is easily scavenged, but a 99 cent extension cord will do the job as well. Pie pans make cheap reflectors.

January 12, 2015	#17
Sun City Linda Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: SoCal Inland Posts: 2,705	I use those bulbs too, I have a collection of salvageable goose neck desk lamps that work great!

January 12, 2015	#18
Ed of Somis Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Somis, Ca Posts: 649	Well, I thought you guys might scold me because I did not post on the "seed" site (didn't see it originally). Instead, you have given me great info...and I appreciate that. Sounds like there are lots of ways to go. I sometimes over-think stuff. For example: I hunted down 6500k and 3500k (I think) lights last year because I wanted "full spectrum". Not necessary...huh? Anyway, you guys are going to make me crazy with the seed project...and require me to go to therapy.

January 12, 2015	#22
BigVanVader Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Greenville, South Carolina Posts: 3,099	I use tap but I let it sit for 24 hours so the chlorine etc evaps. I used to get damping off if I used it straight from tap repeatedly. Could just be my water but since I started letting it distill I havent had any problems.

January 13, 2015	#24
peebee Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Southern CA Posts: 1,714	We live in So. CA so we don't really need all those lights that others in colder places use. I echo Sun City Linda: you just need a heat mat for initial sprouting, and use lights at night for a couple of weeks maybe, just to give them as much light as possible in the beginning. Then I just move my flats outdoors under a light weave canopy to protect from hot sun but still in bright light. Depending on the night temps, I might move them indoors but since cold temps help them get thick stems I tend to leave them out once the weather stabilizes to 55F or so. Keep it simple and take advantage of our natural light and heat. After years of doing this and that, I prefer this lazy laid-back method. I also use DE for seed sprouting and Craig's dense seed method because both are genius methods. These might be challenging for the novice gardener but I think most will quickly catch on. Since using DE I have never had damping off either. Regular water for me, with very light fertilizing maybe once or twice after observing the growth.