Help please...

[BigVanVader]

I used metro mix 360 last year and my seedlings grew like weeds. I think I'm gonna go get some so I don't fret anymore. I can use this first batch to experiment. I will go get some pH strips tomorrow and see what I get and go from there. I've never used this peat but it says its organic but who knows nowadays. I greatly appreciate the help everyone.

[RayR]

Originally Posted by BigVanVader

Ditto on not using or using ferts? As stated they haven't been fertilized since a few days before transplant. So 3 weeks tomorrow. The acidity of the peat does concern me and I bought some dolomite lime. How much should I use for a 18 gallon mix? I read the lime takes months to be available... Is that true?

Yes on using the ferts, there's nothing in your mix as it is to supply the nutrients a growing plant needs. 3 weeks is long overdue.

You can't know how much dolomite to add because you don't know where you are starting from as far as PH. Not all peat is the same PH. So if you want to play around with your own mixes, having a way to test the PH is a great advantage.
I have a digital meter but for quickly checking PH I use PH Papers I use Hydrion #95 papers, tests from 5.0-9.0 in .5PH increments. A 15ft roll is under $10.00 delivered on ebay.

Lime doesn't take months to neutralize acidity in the soil water, the finer the powder the faster it works which starts immediately. Supplying calcium and magnesium can occur over months but again the finer the grind of dolomite powder the faster Ca and Mg will be available in solution.
If you want to wing it for now on that one plant, try adding 1/8 teaspoon of dolomite to a quart of water, mix real well so the finest particles are in suspension in the water. Add the recommended amount of your liquid fertilizer and water the plant with that.

[peebee]

Is it just me or does anyone else think the potting medium looks very "peat-y dry"? Did you adequately moisten the peat beforehand, as you know with dry peat it's very hard to get it to retain moisture after the fact. I learned the hard way. The only way I can sort of remedy the situation is by bottom-watering till the peat starts looking moister (is that a word?) but not overly wet of course.

There is good advice you got already, esp. about playing around with your own potting mixes (from RayR). I no longer try to make my own w/ peat, etc. for this critical stage and just use commercial ones I can trust like Pro Mix, Sunshine or MG. It's easier for me and I don't have to worry. I buy peat for my blueberry containers only, and even then use only a third as part of the %.

[BigVanVader]

Yes I prewet the whole mix and have been bottom watering since. I most likely will buy a commercial mix from now on. I didn't really save much money making my own anyway.

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by BigVanVader

I didn't really save much money making my own anyway.

Right.

Worth

[BigVanVader]

Not sure what you meant by that but Metro-mix is quite cheap when bought in bulk. Cheap enough for me to not care about the difference.

[Worth1]

[QUOTEBigVanVader;450850]Not sure what you meant by that but Metro-mix is quite cheap when bought in bulk. Cheap enough for me to not care about the difference.[/QUOTE]


It is a modern term for inthusiastic agreement always said with a smile or laugh.
I have worked many years with people young enough to be my kids.
So I picked up their language.

Another way of saying it would be to say sometimes no matter how much you try to make something it is cheaper or easier to buy it.
Right is easier and gets the point across.
So no ill intent intended.
Worth

[crazyoldgooseman]

I agree to just water for a few days and let them adjust before liquid fertilizer. I can't wait to start the little guys. Keep us updated.

[BigVanVader]

Just wanted to update:

I continued seeing leaf drop and yellowing after 2 more days of waiting so I decided to try feeding them. I bought some Fish and kelp fert linked here http://www.bestnest.com/bestnest/RTP...U=DRA-10-24101 after 4 days things are improving and it seems my seedlings will make a nice comeback. I want to thank all of you for your suggestions. I will be feeding 2x a week from now till planting.

[RayR]

Originally Posted by BigVanVader

Just wanted to update:

I continued seeing leaf drop and yellowing after 2 more days of waiting so I decided to try feeding them. I bought some Fish and kelp fert linked here http://www.bestnest.com/bestnest/RTP...U=DRA-10-24101 after 4 days things are improving and it seems my seedlings will make a nice comeback. I want to thank all of you for your suggestions. I will be feeding 2x a week from now till planting.

Good move, That'll give them the nutrition that they've been missing.
I've used Drammatic K myself. Fish hydrolysate and Kelp is a great all around fast acting organic fertilizer for seedlings, it's got NPK, Calcium, Magnesium and micronutrients, amino acids vitamins and hormones.

[BigVanVader]

Yeah they had it at my local supplier and highly recommended it. Do you use it after planting as a foliar application? I read a research paper on their website that stated it improves disease resistance and that tomatoes and peppers were better able to use the nutrients when applied as a foliar application versus a root zone application. I may spray a few rows of tomatoes and see if they produce more.

[RayR]

Originally Posted by BigVanVader

Yeah they had it at my local supplier and highly recommended it. Do you use it after planting as a foliar application? I read a research paper on their website that stated it improves disease resistance and that tomatoes and peppers were better able to use the nutrients when applied as a foliar application versus a root zone application. I may spray a few rows of tomatoes and see if they produce more.

Yes but foliar application is not a replacement for soil application. Although foliar application can be very beneficial, as a soil drench it feeds the plant through the roots and the rest of the soil biota as well which is extremely important.