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A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.

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Old March 9, 2015   #16
EBCIII
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Originally Posted by ScottinAtlanta View Post
I would stay away from top soil completely. It is just a filler, and one that can add compaction, clay, and other nasties.

Thanks Scott. I will look around some more. I am somewhat limited as to where I can go. I live so far out, Beale.
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Old March 9, 2015   #17
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Can you just get 100% compost from the place that was going to do the mix for you?
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Old March 9, 2015   #18
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hi Drew you have a beautiful eclectic garden .well done.
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Old March 9, 2015   #19
sierrahiker
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H i Drew

You have a very beautiful eclectic garden ,, well done'
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Old March 10, 2015   #20
EBCIII
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Can you just get 100% compost from the place that was going to do the mix for you?

Yes but they said that it would "burn the plants" ?? To be honest I am a little lost in all of this, Beale.
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Old March 10, 2015   #21
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Yes but they said that it would "burn the plants" ?? To be honest I am a little lost in all of this, Beale.

I guess that means they are not selling "finished" compost.
That's what I was able to get which is why I had suggested going with just the compost.
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Old March 10, 2015   #22
drew51
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It is best to prepare beds a year in advance, and yes pure compost would be good, I would add pine bark fines which you can often find as a soil conditioner. And a few bags of peat moss too. Fill it to the brim, it will decompose 2-6 inches over the season. You'll have to add more.

I have one use for top soil. I grow fruit trees and you want to use native soil, but you want to mound the tree too. I use the top soil as a base of the mound, if I cannot secure enough native soil. You do not want to give trees good soil. They need to learn how to live in native soil.
I'm planting currants and fruit trees this spring. For the currants I will dig out the native soil and save for my trees! I'll amend the currant soil with compost.
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Old March 10, 2015   #23
EBCIII
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I guess that means they are not selling "finished" compost.
That's what I was able to get which is why I had suggested going with just the compost.

I will find out! I can call them easy enough! Tomato Plants will be coming the end of the month! This year may be a bust! If it is I will have lived and learned, Beale.
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Old March 10, 2015   #24
EBCIII
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Originally Posted by drew51 View Post
It is best to prepare beds a year in advance, and yes pure compost would be good, I would add pine bark fines which you can often find as a soil conditioner. And a few bags of peat moss too. Fill it to the brim, it will decompose 2-6 inches over the season. You'll have to add more.

I have one use for top soil. I grow fruit trees and you want to use native soil, but you want to mound the tree too. I use the top soil as a base of the mound, if I cannot secure enough native soil. You do not want to give trees good soil. They need to learn how to live in native soil.
I'm planting currants and fruit trees this spring. For the currants I will dig out the native soil and save for my trees! I'll amend the currant soil with compost.

See I did not know that I should prepare my beds a Year in advance? Peat Moss I can get. I do not even have my compost bin going yet? Like I said. Live and learn, Beale.
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Old March 10, 2015   #25
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I guess that means they are not selling "finished" compost.
That's what I was able to get which is why I had suggested going with just the compost.

I just called them. They said that it was "Certified Finished" Compost. She still says You can not plant directly into it because it will burn the plants? So the next time I am in town I am going to look real hard at it.

If it looks good it is $20.00 per scoop I have a Trailer for the Truck. Can I plan directly in it or is she shooting me the BULL? Beale.
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Old March 10, 2015   #26
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See I did not know that I should prepare my beds a Year in advance? Peat Moss I can get. I do not even have my compost bin going yet? Like I said. Live and learn, Beale.
Well it's not like a must, but it helps to have the bed ready, microbes have a chance to populate it. PH has a chance to stabilize. Not a must do except maybe for blueberries.
I disagree about the compost burning plants, if finished, it's fine! What it's like 1-1-1? How does that burn plants?? It doesn't some of the NPK will not be available for years in compost.
Gardengal wrote this in 2009
"While compost does offer NPK as well as a wide range of other necessary plant nutrients and trace elements, they are generally present in very low concentrations and will vary considerably based on the content of the raw ingredients included in the compost. Therefore it is very difficult to overapply compost as it pertains to its fertilizing qualities. And while it does provide nutrients and act as a fertilizer, it is most often considered a soil amendment or additive but it offers benefits in both regards."

Last edited by drew51; March 10, 2015 at 11:51 AM.
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Old March 10, 2015   #27
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Well it's not like a must, but it helps to have the bed ready, microbes have a chance to populate it. PH has a chance to stabilize. Not a must do except maybe for blueberries.
I disagree about the compost burning plants, if finished, it's fine! What it's like 1-1-1? How does that burn plants?? It doesn't some of the NPK will not be available for years in compost.
Gardengal wrote this in 2009
"While compost does offer NPK as well as a wide range of other necessary plant nutrients and trace elements, they are generally present in very low concentrations and will vary considerably based on the content of the raw ingredients included in the compost. Therefore it is very difficult to overapply compost as it pertains to its fertilizing qualities. And while it does provide nutrients and act as a fertilizer, it is most often considered a soil amendment or additive but it offers benefits in both regards."

Can I Plant My Tomato's in it? This is really what I want to know? Or do I need to add anything to it? Beale.
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Old March 10, 2015   #28
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Do you have to have raised beds this year? get a little of good stuff and mix into the top of your soil, then in fall, pile up leaves, straw, manure etc.
Maybe you can set up a pile of your own compost in the meantime? Lots of freebies can be scrounged up from local woodchips, friends with horses, Starbucks, breweries etc
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Old March 10, 2015   #29
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How tall are your raised beds? You could just mix the compost in to the native soil below the bed if they are just 8 or 10" tall. I wouldnt overthink this. There is an excellent chance your garden will do great in nearly pure compost, and at the end of the season it would probably be easy to reach the native soil and mix it in with a garden fork.
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Old March 10, 2015   #30
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Originally Posted by EBCIII View Post
I just called them. They said that it was "Certified Finished" Compost. She still says You can not plant directly into it because it will burn the plants? So the next time I am in town I am going to look real hard at it.

If it looks good it is $20.00 per scoop I have a Trailer for the Truck. Can I plan directly in it or is she shooting me the BULL? Beale.
What is a scoop one yard or what?
Have you seen the top soil, everyone's idea of top soil is different it might be good stuff.
It could be sandy loam.
Have you figured out how many yards of soil you need?
Strait compost will shrink like nobodies tomorrow.
Once it dries out it is sometimes hard to get wet and I have never good luck growing tomatoes in straight compost.

Have you considered mixing equal parts compost top soil and sharp sand.


Just a few questions to consider.

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