Anyone care to share their homemade potting mix recipe? - Page 2

Stvrob · March 7, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glen Bryan

I used the 511 but it molded horribly I know it's not the peat or perlite and I really don't want to have to sterilize whole bunch of bark. Thoughts?

drew51 · March 7, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glen Bryan

I used the 511 but it molded horribly I know it's not the peat or perlite and I really don't want to have to sterilize whole bunch of bark. Thoughts?

Well sterile bark would be a bad thing too, you want your soil teeming with life. Sounds like it was way overwatered. Bark tends to keep things dry. I have never heard of this problem. I thought I heard them all too. Bark is poor in nutrients. I can't see anything but bacteria eating it. Seems to me the mold was eating an organic fertilizer used, as I really doubt it was digesting the bark. No sugars, no protein in the bark. Plenty of that in organic fertilizers.

I guess if wet a long time, the mold could find something to eat. Just let it dry well, no need to sterilize. The mold should not hurt any plants. Let it go to spore though by drying it well.

gregory · March 7, 2015

This fall I tried something new that a plant pathologist suggested from auburn university. I was complaining about the cost of decent potting soil since I have over 20 containers 17 are 10 gallons so it adds up.

I use evergreen products which are made in my state and I purchase these from lowes.
My base is a soil conditioner and then I added compost and manure, and composted organic humus, and finally mini bark nuggets. Then I add a small amount of powder dolomite lime. It worked well with some broccoli that I planted this past fall.

Incidentally I added the mini bark nuggets to miracle grow as well when I used it. We get a lot of rain fall so I am better having something that drains and when it's hot n dry I don't mind watering daily. It doesn't take that much time out of my day.

Gardeneer · March 8, 2015

I have been container gardening to some extent lately.
After a lot of search and reading, I have come to think that the potting mix has to be SOIL LESS, no garden soil, no tp soil, no compost no manure. Here I am talking about growing tomatoes, peppers and other garden vegetables AS ANNUAL.

In container, it is important to have a balance between drainage and moisture retention. Aeration is yet another important issue. Garden soils, composts tend to get compacted thus compromising drainage and aeration.

Most commercial potting mixes are PEAT MOSS based, which tend to hold to much moisture and have high Perch Water Table.
The 5-1-1 mentioned, is Pine Bark base with a much coarse structure, providing good drainage and aeration. As Drew has commented 5-1-1 can be TOO DRY, meaning it might not have enough moisture retention. So as Drew suggested you might choose a 3-1-1 ratio ( 3 part pine bark fine, 1 part peat, i part perlite). It all depend on the pine bark that one finds and uses. I myself, do not add peat moss and instead I use DE (Floor dry)

There are few good commercial potting mixes that I have read good reviews on them.

=== ProMix Bx
=== Fafard
Lately I have seen some kellogg brands with good structure.
I won't use stuff like MG Moisture Control. It is mostly peat moss and stays soggy.

kayrobbins · March 8, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottinAtlanta

I often consult Potting Mixes for Certified Organic Production

https://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/sum...ary.php?pub=47

Thanks for sharing that link. That was one of the better publications I have read on making your own growing mix.

drew51 · March 8, 2015

Well that article sums up why I use compost and always will.

Israeli researchers discovered that vegetable and herb seedlings raised in a mix of 40% vermiculite, 30% peat moss, and 30% composted cow manure grew faster, with less incidence of disease, than those raised in a 40% vermiculite/60% peat moss mix (5). To understand how compost suppresses disease, it is helpful to know how plant substances are broken down during the composting process.

Why burden your plants more than you have to? Compost just makes sense.
Often people forget that pine and peat are actually composts. Just substitute the peat or part of the peat for compost. Compost does not hold as much water as peat. So to maintain the same water retention, you will need to add a little more compost than peat. You may not believe it if you don't use compost, but try it, you will be impressed. I know I was!

No matter what you use compost or not, you need to understand soil structure, as that helps manage your plants better. I also really like pine and perlite too. I'm still experimenting, it takes time to see results.

elight · March 9, 2015

So Drew... That's basically Mel's Mix with a little extra vermiculite? Does the article say specifically that they were using this mix in containers?

greenthumbomaha · March 9, 2015

What are the different types sizes etc of peat moss? What is the difference between the peat moss that is in Miracle Grow and Pro Mix? The mix I use is Fertilome. It does stay somewhat wetter than Promix but on a windy day you still have to keep after the watering. Promix was great indoors but drove me crazy in outdoor containers.

I add perlite and cow or buffalo compost to the Fertilome.

Faford is adding a product called Resillance to their professional line. Hmmm ...

-Lisa

Gardeneer · March 9, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenthumbomaha

What are the different types sizes etc of peat moss? What is the difference between the peat moss that is in Miracle Grow and Pro Mix? The mix I use is Fertilome. It does stay somewhat wetter than Promix but on a windy day you still have to keep after the watering. Promix was great indoors but drove me crazy in outdoor containers.

I add perlite and cow or buffalo compost to the Fertilome.

Faford is adding a product called Resillance to their professional line. Hmmm ...

-Lisa

To my knowledge all commercial potting mixes use SPHAGNUM PEAT MOSS, which is the most common type , sold for about $12 per 3 cubic foot compressed bag.

drew51 · March 9, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by elight

So Drew... That's basically Mel's Mix with a little extra vermiculite? Does the article say specifically that they were using this mix in containers?

Yes, it's from the organic article Scott posted.

drew51 · March 9, 2015

You know sometimes it's about the grower not the mix. If you have a green thumb you can grow anything in anything. Often I hear that commercial mixes have too much peat moss. Like Miracle Grow, well if you know that going in, water correctly, and you will have excellent results. Nobody told this blueberry peat moss is too soggy.

Gerardo · March 11, 2015

You can use the big box raised bed potting mix as a starting point, it's got minimal tree trunks and I've gotten good results with it by itself. I adjust it to my needs by adding additional peat moss, perlite, some sand, fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, hummic acids, crab meal, worm castings, a little sheep manure, epsom salts, some lime. Then it's thru the screen, into the pot, and then a good dousing of vermicompost worm tea to get the party started. It rests for a week or two and then it's ready to receive the youngins.

hiker_ · May 3, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by drew51

You know sometimes it's about the grower not the mix. If you have a green thumb you can grow anything in anything. Often I hear that commercial mixes have too much peat moss. Like Miracle Grow, well if you know that going in, water correctly, and you will have excellent results. Nobody told this blueberry peat moss is too soggy.

What's the correct way to water for a mix that has "too much" peat moss?

I have people telling me, "You have to water till the water comes out the drainage holes to make sure it actually gets down to the roots, especially when you just potted up, because then you also need the water to wash the mix down around the roots so the roots aren't sitting in a big air pocket." But if I do that, it stays wet for a week after.

But if I *don't* do that and I just give it a surface "sip" instead, I get roots coming out the surface next to the plant (roots maybe grew up to where the water was?).

So...what's the right way to water for a mix that just stays wet?

drew51 · May 3, 2015

The correct way would be to water 1/2 as much. Concentrate water around the stem.
Put a fan on it, in full sun, add compost to prevent root rot. Many things you could do to make it work. The photo says it all!

If you use rainwater, you do not have to worry about calcium buildup, so watering till it comes out the bottom is not applicable, as that is done mostly to wash the excess carbonates out found in tap water.

Ozark · May 3, 2015

MiracleGro Potting Mix, and I add and mix in about 1 part of my vegetable garden soil to 3 parts of Potting Mix.

My garden soil contains a lot of compost, and experience has shown that seedlings and plants do much better in this mixture than in straight MiracleGro P.M. I think the difference is caused by beneficial soil microorganisms.

March 7, 2015	#18
gregory Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: mobile zone 8 Posts: 83	This fall I tried something new that a plant pathologist suggested from auburn university. I was complaining about the cost of decent potting soil since I have over 20 containers 17 are 10 gallons so it adds up. I use evergreen products which are made in my state and I purchase these from lowes. My base is a soil conditioner and then I added compost and manure, and composted organic humus, and finally mini bark nuggets. Then I add a small amount of powder dolomite lime. It worked well with some broccoli that I planted this past fall. Incidentally I added the mini bark nuggets to miracle grow as well when I used it. We get a lot of rain fall so I am better having something that drains and when it's hot n dry I don't mind watering daily. It doesn't take that much time out of my day. __________________ Zone 8 Mobile AL Last edited by gregory; March 7, 2015 at 09:57 PM.

March 8, 2015	#21
drew51 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b Posts: 1,302	Well that article sums up why I use compost and always will. Israeli researchers discovered that vegetable and herb seedlings raised in a mix of 40% vermiculite, 30% peat moss, and 30% composted cow manure grew faster, with less incidence of disease, than those raised in a 40% vermiculite/60% peat moss mix (5). To understand how compost suppresses disease, it is helpful to know how plant substances are broken down during the composting process. Why burden your plants more than you have to? Compost just makes sense. Often people forget that pine and peat are actually composts. Just substitute the peat or part of the peat for compost. Compost does not hold as much water as peat. So to maintain the same water retention, you will need to add a little more compost than peat. You may not believe it if you don't use compost, but try it, you will be impressed. I know I was! No matter what you use compost or not, you need to understand soil structure, as that helps manage your plants better. I also really like pine and perlite too. I'm still experimenting, it takes time to see results. Last edited by drew51; March 8, 2015 at 01:26 PM.

March 9, 2015	#23
greenthumbomaha Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Omaha Zone 5 Posts: 2,514	What are the different types sizes etc of peat moss? What is the difference between the peat moss that is in Miracle Grow and Pro Mix? The mix I use is Fertilome. It does stay somewhat wetter than Promix but on a windy day you still have to keep after the watering. Promix was great indoors but drove me crazy in outdoor containers. I add perlite and cow or buffalo compost to the Fertilome. Faford is adding a product called Resillance to their professional line. Hmmm ... -Lisa Last edited by greenthumbomaha; March 9, 2015 at 02:31 AM.

May 3, 2015	#29
drew51 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b Posts: 1,302	The correct way would be to water 1/2 as much. Concentrate water around the stem. Put a fan on it, in full sun, add compost to prevent root rot. Many things you could do to make it work. The photo says it all! If you use rainwater, you do not have to worry about calcium buildup, so watering till it comes out the bottom is not applicable, as that is done mostly to wash the excess carbonates out found in tap water. Last edited by drew51; May 3, 2015 at 01:07 AM.

March 8, 2015	#19
Gardeneer Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7 Posts: 4,919	I have been container gardening to some extent lately. After a lot of search and reading, I have come to think that the potting mix has to be SOIL LESS, no garden soil, no tp soil, no compost no manure. Here I am talking about growing tomatoes, peppers and other garden vegetables AS ANNUAL. In container, it is important to have a balance between drainage and moisture retention. Aeration is yet another important issue. Garden soils, composts tend to get compacted thus compromising drainage and aeration. Most commercial potting mixes are PEAT MOSS based, which tend to hold to much moisture and have high Perch Water Table. The 5-1-1 mentioned, is Pine Bark base with a much coarse structure, providing good drainage and aeration. As Drew has commented 5-1-1 can be TOO DRY, meaning it might not have enough moisture retention. So as Drew suggested you might choose a 3-1-1 ratio ( 3 part pine bark fine, 1 part peat, i part perlite). It all depend on the pine bark that one finds and uses. I myself, do not add peat moss and instead I use DE (Floor dry) There are few good commercial potting mixes that I have read good reviews on them. === ProMix Bx === Fafard Lately I have seen some kellogg brands with good structure. I won't use stuff like MG Moisture Control. It is mostly peat moss and stays soggy.

March 9, 2015	#22
elight Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Allentown, PA Posts: 349	So Drew... That's basically Mel's Mix with a little extra vermiculite? Does the article say specifically that they were using this mix in containers?

March 11, 2015	#27
Gerardo Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: San Diego-Tijuana Posts: 2,598	You can use the big box raised bed potting mix as a starting point, it's got minimal tree trunks and I've gotten good results with it by itself. I adjust it to my needs by adding additional peat moss, perlite, some sand, fish bone meal, alfalfa meal, hummic acids, crab meal, worm castings, a little sheep manure, epsom salts, some lime. Then it's thru the screen, into the pot, and then a good dousing of vermicompost worm tea to get the party started. It rests for a week or two and then it's ready to receive the youngins.

May 3, 2015	#30
Ozark Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ozark, Mo. Posts: 201	MiracleGro Potting Mix, and I add and mix in about 1 part of my vegetable garden soil to 3 parts of Potting Mix. My garden soil contains a lot of compost, and experience has shown that seedlings and plants do much better in this mixture than in straight MiracleGro P.M. I think the difference is caused by beneficial soil microorganisms.