Discussion forum for the various methods and structures used for getting an early start on your growing season, extending it for several weeks or even year 'round.
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December 13, 2015 | #16 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: South Africa
Posts: 341
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December 13, 2015 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Sunol, CA
Posts: 2,723
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I saw somewhere where the first man-made features you can see from space is the plastic along the coast in Southern Spain. I think that is now where a large portion of Europe's tomatoes come from.
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December 13, 2015 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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I need to get one of these:
http://www.mechanicaltransplanter.com/tunnel.html |
December 13, 2015 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Sunol, CA
Posts: 2,723
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That definitely looks like the way to do it.
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December 13, 2015 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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Look at how tiny the tunnels are, 14" high? Small tunnels like that seem to be the commercial standard. I presume they are taking that plastic off, 2-3 weeks after planting? I would have a hard time finding a tomato variety that would fit a full-grown plant in a tunnel that small. I may end up building something that looks like a miniature high tunnel.
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December 13, 2015 | #21 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Diego-Tijuana
Posts: 2,598
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Quote:
Good to know, I'll find a source of the UV type. Thanks guys. |
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December 13, 2015 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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Tiny tunnels,
in the field. Make me wonder, about the yield. |
December 13, 2015 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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I guess I should have been more specific. The "row cover" I was referring to is like cloth, not plastic. It's white and permeable, not clear. They use it around here even in July because it provides shade, lets moisture and gasses through ie it breathes. It protects against both frost and overheating. It is probably the best way to grow zucchini squash in OK, because of the severe squash bug problem we have. I have managed to get a crop of squash without it, but very hit or miss. So next year I am going with it instead of plastic like I have in the past.
The strategy is to plant in late june/early july and keep the squash covered until the plants are mature then remove the cover of a "section" every week or two. This supplies a steady supply of squash all season for market. As the old becomes infested, remove them and plant a fall crop of something like broccoli or cabbage.
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
December 13, 2015 | #24 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Quote:
Worth |
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December 13, 2015 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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http://www.evergreengrowers.com/met5.../met52-ec.html
I haven't tried it on a squash bug problem, but I have really liked Met52 so far. I know it kills potato bugs, who were the collateral damage when I sprayed it for whiteflies. The stuff works like it is a nuclear option of pesticide, but it is harmless to people. It's pricey, but a little goes a long way. |
December 13, 2015 | #26 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Diego-Tijuana
Posts: 2,598
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Quote:
http://www.evergreengrowers.com/met5...ular-1121.html |
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December 13, 2015 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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Be advised, it kills beneficial insects, too. It really is a nuclear option, similar to Sevin, or other chemical pesticides, at least in regard to effects on bugs. It is best suited for infestation conditions. People who buy beneficial insects can release them a few days after spraying to try to re-establish a balance of predators.
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December 13, 2015 | #28 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Wasilla Alaska
Posts: 2,010
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That is almost how my friend at Glacier Valley does hoops, except another machine lays IRT first. This is very common in AK for obvious reasons.
He gets about 3 or so more weeks production, and the 8-12 degrees they figure the soil is warmed really increases their yields too. His main crops is Zucchini and onions, and strawberries. I tried to explain it. |
December 20, 2015 | #29 |
Tomatoville® Recipe Keeper
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Roseburg, Oregon - zone 7
Posts: 2,821
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I might fiddle with some row covers for my raised beds, more for rain protection than frost protection. Everything just gets drowned here in the winter.
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Corona~Barb Now an Oregon gal |
December 24, 2015 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: albuquerque
Posts: 308
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I think I will try using a 28 inch bicycle rim sandwiched between plywood sheets and well reinforced as a tubing bender. It would make a narrow tall hoop.
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