Tomatoville® Gardening Forums


Notices

Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old January 12, 2016   #16
Dark Rumor
Tomatovillian™
 
Dark Rumor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southeast Texas
Posts: 287
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gardeneer View Post
You are doing it right I think.

===== 5 plants in 15 sq-ft corresponds to 3 sq-ft per plant ( as I said )
===== in 56 sq-ft 18 plants will also be 3 sq-ft per plant.

So the total will be roughly 23 plants.
What I have suggested is what I have been doing for the past 3 seasons myself. So it is not something theoretical. For example in a 2.5ft by 5ft I will plant 4. I have done 5 too. That would be 2.5sq-ft per plant.

Gardeneer
Do you remove the suckers?
Dark Rumor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 12, 2016   #17
carolyn137
Moderator Emeritus
 
carolyn137's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Rumor View Post
One bed is 3'x5' - 15 sq ft - I was planning on 5 to 6 plants
the second bed is 8'x7' - 56 sq ft - I was planning on 16 to 20 plants
I will probably keep it to the 3 square feet per plant
My question is......how are you going to grow them in your raised beds, by staking, by caging, etc, b/c that does make a large difference in how many plants and how far apart,

With the 8 X 7' garden if you don't leave a central pathway running down the middle I think it's going to very difficult for you to have to get inside that bed to fertilize ,water, and to prune if needed, especially if staking plants.

Carolyn
__________________
Carolyn
carolyn137 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 12, 2016   #18
Dark Rumor
Tomatovillian™
 
Dark Rumor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southeast Texas
Posts: 287
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by carolyn137 View Post
My question is......how are you going to grow them in your raised beds, by staking, by caging, etc, b/c that does make a large difference in how many plants and how far apart,

With the 8 X 7' garden if you don't leave a central pathway running down the middle I think it's going to very difficult for you to have to get inside that bed to fertilize ,water, and to prune if needed, especially if staking plants.

Carolyn
I use cages, I am debating on how many suckers I should leave, if any?
Any thoughts?

As far as watering I use a soaker hose. I can generally work my way around the plants to do the pruning and fertilizing.
Dark Rumor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 13, 2016   #19
carolyn137
Moderator Emeritus
 
carolyn137's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Rumor View Post
I use cages, I am debating on how many suckers I should leave, if any?
Any thoughts?

As far as watering I use a soaker hose. I can generally work my way around the plants to do the pruning and fertilizing.
I always had plenty of room to grow tomatoes when I was still living at the old farm where I was raised, but as I moved from here to there, as in Rochester, NY,Denver, back home to different locations, etc. I no longer could sprawl mine,which worked out fine.

I have grown now lots of varieties by Caging and sometimes the same variety by both caging and sprawling in the same season.

IMO it depends on the diameter and height of the cages you are using, I made mine and they were 22 " in diameter and I think a little over 3 ft high.

The cages were spaced about 3-4 ft apart in the row to allow for good air circulation,and that to help prevent the common foliage diseases.

And I never pruned them at all,just tucked the new growth back into the cage, but as the season progressed would take off any yellow leaves at the bottom of the plants to help prevent whats called Splashback infection.

Hope that helps,

Carolyn
__________________
Carolyn
carolyn137 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 13, 2016   #20
Gardeneer
Tomatovillian™
 
Gardeneer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,919
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Rumor View Post
Do you remove the suckers?
If Determinat, I just do some lower leaf branch pruning and clean up, mostly. Also if I detect some weak suckers , I nip them too as they will have no chance to bear fruits. But let most healthy branches stay.The reason is that, in DET plant each branch has a limited fruiting potential. So by having more branches you will get bore fruits, at intervals.

If Indeterminant:
I prune every thing that grow within 12 -18" from ground. Then I keep 3 and at the most 4 branches. Some tomato plants naturally "fork out". That is you see two branches growing in a "V" form. I don't consider such branching as "Suckering". Those are keepers. Sucker grow much later from leaf nodes. Those are the ones that I prune.

Gardenee
Gardeneer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 13, 2016   #21
Dark Rumor
Tomatovillian™
 
Dark Rumor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southeast Texas
Posts: 287
Default

Caroly and Gardenee thanks for the input, because I am trying to maximize the number of plants in the raised beds, I was thinking I would trim most of the suckers back and after the plants reach a certain height I would remove the bottom layer of branches. My plants have gotten foilage disease and removing the lower branches is one thing I will definitely do.
Dark Rumor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 13, 2016   #22
Worth1
Tomatovillian™
 
Worth1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Rumor View Post
Caroly and Gardenee thanks for the input, because I am trying to maximize the number of plants in the raised beds, I was thinking I would trim most of the suckers back and after the plants reach a certain height I would remove the bottom layer of branches. My plants have gotten foilage disease and removing the lower branches is one thing I will definitely do.
Mine look like little palm trees at the first of the season to help stop it.
I keep doing it until I have taken these leaves off up to about 18 inches or so and then any that show signs.
Worth
Worth1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 15, 2016   #23
Dark Rumor
Tomatovillian™
 
Dark Rumor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southeast Texas
Posts: 287
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Worth1 View Post
Mine look like little palm trees at the first of the season to help stop it.
I keep doing it until I have taken these leaves off up to about 18 inches or so and then any that show signs.
Worth
LOL on the Palm Trees
Dark Rumor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 15, 2016   #24
Gardeneer
Tomatovillian™
 
Gardeneer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,919
Default

Sorry, not to hi jack the thread but now that "pruning" is being discussed, I believe in systematic pruning, especially of the lower leaf branches.
Here is a picture from a commercial greenhouse with 7 acres under the roof.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg grennhouse.jpg (136.5 KB, 40 views)
Gardeneer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 16, 2016   #25
gssgarden
Tomatovillian™
 
gssgarden's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: N.C.
Posts: 1,827
Default

Wow! That's a cool pic!!

I prune as well. everything from the first flower buds down to start. Then what I deem as 'not going to produce anything' goes. Suckers that grow late and just don't have the time to produce, or will produce tiny toms don't make the cut.

Greg
gssgarden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 16, 2016   #26
gssgarden
Tomatovillian™
 
gssgarden's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: N.C.
Posts: 1,827
Default

Norway, I have grown both Goliath Hybrid and Big Beef for years now. Both are extremely similar. Production monsters up until frost. Very good flavor on disease free plants.

It would be tough for me to choose but MAYBE Big Beef has an edge. I'll grow a couple plants and during the growing season I'll pick a few a day!

Greg
gssgarden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 16, 2016   #27
gssgarden
Tomatovillian™
 
gssgarden's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: N.C.
Posts: 1,827
Default

Kath, I do combine them all as the darks really deepen the flavor for me. I get different shades of red but never muddy! lol

I've done one variety sauce a couple times with Shannon's and Big Beef, both came out wonderful. When I do mix, there is usually a yellow or orange in there to lighten up the blacks. Plus I LOVE the flavor of the black I choose.

Greg
gssgarden is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:56 PM.


★ Tomatoville® is a registered trademark of Commerce Holdings, LLC ★ All Content ©2022 Commerce Holdings, LLC ★