Looking for recommendations

[Gardeneer]

Lat bi color , Ananas Noire.
As mentioned already pineapple / hillbilly are quite late too.
I am growing those bu I have also early ones like Stupice.
You got it right. Most large tomatoes ripen late.
Another option might be to try planting later than usual time, maybe one moth late. This way they will set fruits before the high heat arrives.

[Jimbotomateo]

Originally Posted by KarenO

All delicious for sure. You are lucky, pm me and I will send you Captain lucky, one of my personal all time fav tomatoes. You too Rena, if you want any of the ones I mentioned
KO

Ditto what Rena said. If I don't hear I'll pm you. Thanks. Jimbo

[AlittleSalt]

Rena, if you would like some more recently saved seeds from a lot of the varieties mentioned above - I would be more than happy to send you some.

[dmforcier]

Originally Posted by Rena

The humidity and the heat gets to a certain point that the pollen clumps and the plant will not put on any tomatoes. The season is a big bang. Once our fruit set window is done then its done.

You're missing the point. Have plants ready to go into the ground after the big bang. I know how long your season is there; you could easily get a second harvest.

[b54red]

As someone who has been growing tomatoes with staggered planting dates for years I know that many varieties do not set well after our oppressive heat and humidity set in; but you are wrong about the season being over. There are varieties that will still set if treated right and set out as late as mid summer. Most of these varieties are black tomatoes but some are pinks and reds. No way will they produce like in the spring months but they will provide you with a continuous supply of fresh tomatoes right up til it freezes if you set them out in June and early July. One of them is a bicolor called Virginia Sweet which produces very large fruits that are not quite as sweet as most bicolor tomatoes which is a good thing to me. I find most of the bicolors just too sweet.

Even the latest varieties will still make far too soon to accomplish what you want to do. I have grown 90+ DTM varieties that ripened in 70 days from set out. The heat just increases the speed with which they ripen down here. I have only grown one variety that actually made it nearly 90 days before ripening and that was Lucky Cross but found it far too sweet and it had a tendency to start rotting in the high heat just as it was ripening.

What you need to come close to doing what you want to do is to plant some varieties that are a bit late in setting fruit and yet will continue for a while once the heat sets in. A few that seem to do that for me are Druzba, Couilles de Taureau, and Red Brandywine (from TGS). Large varieties that tend to continue setting and producing good sized tomatoes despite the heat for me are Virginia Sweet, Red Barn, Couilles de Taureau, Limbaugh's Legacy, Neves Azorean Red, Stump of the World, and sometimes Brandywine Cowlick's.

There are a few varieties that will still set fruit in the hottest weather if a few steps are taken in their care. These steps are very important for production in the months of mid to late summer. First is applying a heavy mulch to give the soil the ability to stay cool. I have found that cypress mulch accomplishes this goal and with its insulating of the soil it also lowers the amount of watering by holding in moisture far longer than any other mulch I have used. Heavy watering when the plants are in the heavy blooming stage. This seems to help the plant maintain blooms which tend to drop in the oppressive heat. Regular weekly feedings of Texas Tomato Food. I don't know what it is about this stuff but the ability of plants to set fruit with this treatment has really been a major boost to my production during mid and late summer. Last but not least is keeping the plants pruned to a limited number of stems and keeping them sprayed to help with diseases. It is also important to be aggressive stopping pests like spider mites, aphids, leaf footed bugs, and stink bugs as soon as they start showing up on the plants. Despite all these steps you can't expect fruit to be as large or as plentiful as during the more pleasant weather of spring and early summer for any varieties.

The absolute top varieties for setting tomatoes and making edible fruit in the worst heat are Indian Stripe PL and Pruden's Purple. Followed by these consistent good heat producers: Arkansas Traveler, Spudakee, Carbon, JD's Special C Tex, Donskoi, Margaret Curtain, Indian Stripe, Red Brandywine (TGS), Druzba, Neves Azorean Red, Virginia Sweet, Royal Hillbilly and Limbaugh's Legacy. Because it was still producing very large tomatoes right up til the end of summer I think I will also be adding Red Barn to my mid summer plantings to see if it will be a good one for late summer and fall production. Despite many varieties doing fair to good in the intense heat only a few have proven to be champs in those conditions so for late plantings down here I would make multiple plantings of ISPL, Pruden's Purple, Arkansas Traveler and Spudakee.

Bill

[garyjr]

Originally Posted by b54red

As someone who has been growing tomatoes with staggered planting dates for years I know that many varieties do not set well after our oppressive heat and humidity set in; but you are wrong about the season being over. There are varieties that will still set if treated right and set out as late as mid summer. Most of these varieties are black tomatoes but some are pinks and reds. No way will they produce like in the spring months but they will provide you with a continuous supply of fresh tomatoes right up til it freezes if you set them out in June and early July. One of them is a bicolor called Virginia Sweet which produces very large fruits that are not quite as sweet as most bicolor tomatoes which is a good thing to me. I find most of the bicolors just too sweet.

Even the latest varieties will still make far too soon to accomplish what you want to do. I have grown 90+ DTM varieties that ripened in 70 days from set out. The heat just increases the speed with which they ripen down here. I have only grown one variety that actually made it nearly 90 days before ripening and that was Lucky Cross but found it far too sweet and it had a tendency to start rotting in the high heat just as it was ripening.

What you need to come close to doing what you want to do is to plant some varieties that are a bit late in setting fruit and yet will continue for a while once the heat sets in. A few that seem to do that for me are Druzba, Couilles de Taureau, and Red Brandywine (from TGS). Large varieties that tend to continue setting and producing good sized tomatoes despite the heat for me are Virginia Sweet, Red Barn, Couilles de Taureau, Limbaugh's Legacy, Neves Azorean Red, Stump of the World, and sometimes Brandywine Cowlick's.

There are a few varieties that will still set fruit in the hottest weather if a few steps are taken in their care. These steps are very important for production in the months of mid to late summer. First is applying a heavy mulch to give the soil the ability to stay cool. I have found that cypress mulch accomplishes this goal and with its insulating of the soil it also lowers the amount of watering by holding in moisture far longer than any other mulch I have used. Heavy watering when the plants are in the heavy blooming stage. This seems to help the plant maintain blooms which tend to drop in the oppressive heat. Regular weekly feedings of Texas Tomato Food. I don't know what it is about this stuff but the ability of plants to set fruit with this treatment has really been a major boost to my production during mid and late summer. Last but not least is keeping the plants pruned to a limited number of stems and keeping them sprayed to help with diseases. It is also important to be aggressive stopping pests like spider mites, aphids, leaf footed bugs, and stink bugs as soon as they start showing up on the plants. Despite all these steps you can't expect fruit to be as large or as plentiful as during the more pleasant weather of spring and early summer for any varieties.

The absolute top varieties for setting tomatoes and making edible fruit in the worst heat are Indian Stripe PL and Pruden's Purple. Followed by these consistent good heat producers: Arkansas Traveler, Spudakee, Carbon, JD's Special C Tex, Donskoi, Margaret Curtain, Indian Stripe, Red Brandywine (TGS), Druzba, Neves Azorean Red, Virginia Sweet, Royal Hillbilly and Limbaugh's Legacy. Because it was still producing very large tomatoes right up til the end of summer I think I will also be adding Red Barn to my mid summer plantings to see if it will be a good one for late summer and fall production. Despite many varieties doing fair to good in the intense heat only a few have proven to be champs in those conditions so for late plantings down here I would make multiple plantings of ISPL, Pruden's Purple, Arkansas Traveler and Spudakee.

Bill

Bill, very informative post. Out of curiosity, what do you recommend for pest control? This past season was the worst I have ever seen for stink bugs. Thanks

[Rena]

Originally Posted by AlittleSalt

Rena, if you would like some more recently saved seeds from a lot of the varieties mentioned above - I would be more than happy to send you some.

Thanks! I can SASE if you pm me your address!

[Rena]

I guess I should of included a little more info I live in a micro climate outside of FDR state park. I can have a semi productive SECOND season but the big bang is really where I am trying to focus my energy. While I dearly love tomatoes, I am a single Mom running a very versatile farm by myself. I also school my children at home... That means that between harvesting honey, beekeeping chores and the rest of the harvest and running of the farm.. a second season is not practical for me. It is not practical because while it does produce tomatoes -the AMOUNT of productivity is not a pay off for me. I start moving on to winter crops. THANKS for all of the great suggestions

[Rena]

Originally Posted by b54red

As someone who has been growing tomatoes with staggered planting dates for years I know that many varieties do not set well after our oppressive heat and humidity set in; but you are wrong about the season being over. There are varieties that will still set if treated right and set out as late as mid summer. Most of these varieties are black tomatoes but some are pinks and reds. No way will they produce like in the spring months but they will provide you with a continuous supply of fresh tomatoes right up til it freezes if you set them out in June and early July. One of them is a bicolor called Virginia Sweet which produces very large fruits that are not quite as sweet as most bicolor tomatoes which is a good thing to me. I find most of the bicolors just too sweet.

Even the latest varieties will still make far too soon to accomplish what you want to do. I have grown 90+ DTM varieties that ripened in 70 days from set out. The heat just increases the speed with which they ripen down here. I have only grown one variety that actually made it nearly 90 days before ripening and that was Lucky Cross but found it far too sweet and it had a tendency to start rotting in the high heat just as it was ripening.

What you need to come close to doing what you want to do is to plant some varieties that are a bit late in setting fruit and yet will continue for a while once the heat sets in. A few that seem to do that for me are Druzba, Couilles de Taureau, and Red Brandywine (from TGS). Large varieties that tend to continue setting and producing good sized tomatoes despite the heat for me are Virginia Sweet, Red Barn, Couilles de Taureau, Limbaugh's Legacy, Neves Azorean Red, Stump of the World, and sometimes Brandywine Cowlick's.

There are a few varieties that will still set fruit in the hottest weather if a few steps are taken in their care. These steps are very important for production in the months of mid to late summer. First is applying a heavy mulch to give the soil the ability to stay cool. I have found that cypress mulch accomplishes this goal and with its insulating of the soil it also lowers the amount of watering by holding in moisture far longer than any other mulch I have used. Heavy watering when the plants are in the heavy blooming stage. This seems to help the plant maintain blooms which tend to drop in the oppressive heat. Regular weekly feedings of Texas Tomato Food. I don't know what it is about this stuff but the ability of plants to set fruit with this treatment has really been a major boost to my production during mid and late summer. Last but not least is keeping the plants pruned to a limited number of stems and keeping them sprayed to help with diseases. It is also important to be aggressive stopping pests like spider mites, aphids, leaf footed bugs, and stink bugs as soon as they start showing up on the plants. Despite all these steps you can't expect fruit to be as large or as plentiful as during the more pleasant weather of spring and early summer for any varieties.

The absolute top varieties for setting tomatoes and making edible fruit in the worst heat are Indian Stripe PL and Pruden's Purple. Followed by these consistent good heat producers: Arkansas Traveler, Spudakee, Carbon, JD's Special C Tex, Donskoi, Margaret Curtain, Indian Stripe, Red Brandywine (TGS), Druzba, Neves Azorean Red, Virginia Sweet, Royal Hillbilly and Limbaugh's Legacy. Because it was still producing very large tomatoes right up til the end of summer I think I will also be adding Red Barn to my mid summer plantings to see if it will be a good one for late summer and fall production. Despite many varieties doing fair to good in the intense heat only a few have proven to be champs in those conditions so for late plantings down here I would make multiple plantings of ISPL, Pruden's Purple, Arkansas Traveler and Spudakee.

Bill

Great info THANK YOU!

[dmforcier]

That sure is a pretty section of the country. I've been through there several times on my bike. (The only thing I don't like is the use of macadam road surface -- what we call "Shake'n'Bake" -- that is like riding high pressure tires on miniature cobblestones for mile after mile.)

Good luck with the upcoming season!

[b54red]

Originally Posted by garyjr

Bill, very informative post. Out of curiosity, what do you recommend for pest control? This past season was the worst I have ever seen for stink bugs. Thanks

I finally found a very good solution to the stink bug problem and I found it trying to figure out if anything less lethal than DDT would stop spider mites. The same thing worked for all the major pests that can overwhelm the garden. It is using a mix of diatomaceous earth (Food Grade), soapy water and a good dose of Permethrin.

First I mix about 2/3 to 3/4 cup of food grade diatomaceous earth in a jug with some water for each gallon of spray I will need. Just add some water and shake it vigorously and it will easily mix into a solution that looks like thin chocolate milk. Then pour that mixture through a very fine strainer into your tank sprayer. Then add 2 tablespoons of Dawn per gallon of mix you want. Then add a strong dose of Permethrin and it does take a higher than recommended dose to really kill off stink bugs. I buy a higher strength Permethrin from 10% to 43% to save money but in those higher strengths it doesn't take much. Then add the required amount of water to make the number of gallons you need. Spray the plants with as high a pressure as you can with as fine a mist as you can making sure to get all surfaces of the plants and the ground or mulch under the plants. Make sure to shake your sprayer a bit every few minutes and sometimes if you don't the nozzle will get a bit clogged. This spray will dry quickly leaving a fine film of DE on the plants making them look a bit ghostly. The Permethrin and soapy water kill off a lot of the adults and the DE seems to kill the juveniles when they hatch out. Meaning it works for a long time with out the constant need to apply poisons over and over.

I have had no problems with stinkbugs, leaf footed bugs or aphids after applying this treatment. Spider mites usually require more than one treatment just because you always leave a few and they multiply so fast. If it rains hard after a treatment then it will need to be reapplied. Sometimes I have seen the stink bugs or leaf footed bugs come back later in the season and I will use it again.

It seems like a crazy mix but it works without resorting to more potent poisons or the even scarier to me systemic poisons which many use. Since Permethrin is such a mild poison to most mammals except cats it only requires a one day or same day wait for harvest; but I wait a couple of days at least. The DE film may need to be washed off of your fruits if it hasn't rained well since being applied. Since I started using this mix I have been able to keep all the major sucking pests under control quite easily; but I try not to use it early in the season unless I have to because it will kill of beneficial just as it does pests. To prevent loss of bees I only spray very late in the day and I have seen only an increase in my honey bee population though I have little doubt that the DE residue will harm a few of them.

Bill

[nancyruhl]

Another vote for Virginia Sweets. I don't grow in your conditions but the flavor is oh so worth a try.