Improving fruit set in the south

[Gardeneer]

Originally Posted by Lasairfion

I'm not sure why, but Youtube threw up a video suggestion for me last night about tomatoes. I don't think I've ever heard of people spraying apple juice on their tomato blossoms before. I wonder if it works?

Using Apple Juice to Set Blossoms Note according to the video comments he means 'Ethylene' when he says 'Methane'

Tomato flowers are pretty much self pollinating. The male and female parts are in a very close proximity.
The idea of spraying with apple juice ( or anything sweet )is to attract pollinators like bees. But Pollinator visit is not a guarantee for fruits set at high temp/humidity.
When the air is too hot and humid the pollen just won't do the job. And maybe the ovules wont take it.

Another point as Big V mentioned could be high soil temperatures. It is established that potatoes won't set tubers when the soil temperatures approach 80F. i am thinking that tomato, being a close relative of potato might not like hot soil too.

[BigVanVader]

More tomatoes are grown indoors than not. All they get is a light fan breeze and people walking by them. If a tomato isn't setting its either a nutrient or environmental issue.

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by carolyn137

I think the best advice ever given was by Linda Sapp, who owns Tomato Growers Supply in Fort Myers,FL.She gave it both at her website and also in her catalogs.

She said you have to get those plants out and going and setting fruits before the hot humid weather arrives and that b/c, now my words,b/c high sustained heat can destroy the pollen and high sustained humidity can clump the pollen making it useless and if you have both then that's a real BAD problem.

Carolyn

Ditto

Worth

[creister]

Carolyn's advice via Linda Sapp will proabley give you the most improvement. I start my plants in early January, and plant out in mid March. I also plant large transplants.

Since doing that, my production has been much greater. I have to be prepared to protect from late frost. I know that Feldon who used to post here quite a bit, also planted out very early.

[My Foot Smells]

Originally Posted by creister

Carolyn's advice via Linda Sapp will proabley give you the most improvement. I start my plants in early January, and plant out in mid March. I also plant large transplants.

Since doing that, my production has been much greater. I have to be prepared to protect from late frost. I know that Feldon who used to post here quite a bit, also planted out very early.

About 3 weeks behind you, and agree, however, early spring temps fluctuate wildly and the weather can be iffy and bizarre. I often get jacked up fruit on first cluster.

I "think" a high tunnel would be helpful to ward off the heavy wind and potential late frost on the young transplants as they get tossed around like the s.s. minnow on a three hour tour in an open arena.

Garden Placement Plays a Big Part. Had I known then. You really don't need the late west sun in the south, you get plenty. Wind protection is essential. My gh is useful in keeping transplants warm and safe - have a good spot to nurture transplants, not lined on the window sill.

Most of the time my early transplants stay in recovery mode from the abusive weather, thus, have strong transplants ready to go early and not wimpy noodle.

imo, it's not quite as "simple" as starting early. In any event, even the best of precautions and care can turn to ka-ka in a ny minute.

[creister]

I usually wrap my cages in grow fabric for about a month. I do this for wind and hail protection, and some help in frost protection, but I have other methods for that.

[Gardeneer]

I planted out about 12 on March 11, 12th. Then a hard freeze came March 15, 16th. . Lost 7 or 8 of them , even with protection.
Resumed planting out on March 22. Now I am at the peak of production.

I have about 15 plants (from cutting and seed ) for fall . I have planted out about 5 and need room for the rest. Gotta zap some more to make room.
This is my first year down here and experimenting with two crops per season.
My spring plants are mostly fine right now. still setting. But then July has not arrived yet and then there will be August .

[BigVanVader]

You should probably get yours in soon for Fall.

[OzoneNY]

Originally Posted by creister

Carolyn's advice via Linda Sapp will proabley give you the most improvement. I start my plants in early January, and plant out in mid March. I also plant large transplants.

Since doing that, my production has been much greater. I have to be prepared to protect from late frost. I know that Feldon who used to post here quite a bit, also planted out very early.

That also worked best for me. My target date is around St Patrick's Day with the biggest possible transplants. I start mine from seed Jan 15th and by mid March I have 18 inch tall transplants. Best chance for a slow runner to steal second is to get a big lead off first base. Then when the pitcher aint lookin, RUN.
Get the biggest lead you can, it made a big difference for me.

[HoustonHeat]

Ade looks like a lot of good advice. I had same problem in Houston.
This year is much better. Things I changed.

1. Started earlier. Plants in ground in March.
2. Never use soil in pots. Only good potting mix.
3. Do not over fertilize. They will grow with no blooms.
4. Defenately use toothbrush and finger flick a lot.
5. Make sure soil is =< 7PH
6. Find the right variety. BigBeef is working for me.

I am going try a shade system for summer. Just finished a low cost prototype.
See pic..

[b54red]

I always try to set out my biggest planting of tomatoes as early as the weather permits. I also make sure that most of those early tomatoes are varieties that do not do as well in the heat of the deep south. After that first planting which is usually my biggest and most productive planting of the year I start setting out smaller batches of tomato plants about once every month until August. The second planting will have some of the varieties from the first planting that show some ability to set fruit in the heat but the next two plantings are mainly tomatoes that I know from experience will set at least some fruit even in the hottest weather. My last planting which will basically be my fall plants which are made up of varieties that can take the heat but also are good at ripening during the fall when the night time temperatures get much cooler.

Linda's advice is sound but if you know what you are doing and want the challenge and joy of having fresh tomatoes when almost no one else has any you can grow some varieties successfully during the hottest months of the year and I do. Despite the conventional wisdom that you can't grow tomatoes in the south during the hottest part of the summer because they won't set any fruit, I have been doing it for years. It isn't easy and the results pale in comparison to the production you can get if you set the tomatoes out early; but it is so nice to have fresh tomatoes in July, August and September. Those months are usually the time when you just hole up in the house and hope you can get a few fall tomatoes before the season ends but despite the heat I am usually picking a few tomatoes almost every day during that time. Of course torrential rains, diseases, and spider mites can really mess up the late summer tomatoes sometimes; but usually even with those problems enough tomatoes for fresh eating are still coming in from my garden.

We have already put up all the tomatoes we need so everything I get from now on will be purely for fresh eating and giving away to friends and relatives. It is a bit of bother but it keeps me busy when the temptation to just stay in the air conditioning is so strong.

Bill

[HoustonHeat]

Bill what is your favorite hot weather varieties ?

[Gardeneer]

Originally Posted by BigVanVader

You should probably get yours in soon for Fall.

Big V, I have done a few. Now like I said before, I have to find room/space for the rest of them. The ones I have planted out some have buds/flowers already. It is not July yet. I think our killer frost should come around Thanksgiving. That is almost 5 months away. Five months is a goo; long season, to me.
I am also thinking about planting fall cole crops. Right now it is just too hot for cole crops to be direct planting.
OK. I am learning the ropes down here.

[b54red]

Originally Posted by HoustonHeat

Bill what is your favorite hot weather varieties ?

My favorites in very hot weather are:
Indian Stripe PL
Indian Stripe
Pruden's Purple
Spudakee
Arkansas Traveler
JD's Special C Tex

Those are the varieties that produce the most tomatoes but there are others that do quite good in hot weather. The varieties I listed above tend to fruit much more heavily but some of the others that don't put out quite as much fruit are well worth growing. I tend to grow at least one of the following in my later plant outs.

Neves Azorean Red
Frank's Large Red
Royal Hillbilly
Berkeley Tie Dye Pink
Couilles de Taureau
Red Barn

Besides the ones I have found that do well for me in the heat I will try to put out about half a dozen varieties that I haven't set out for hot weather production just to see how they do. I am frequently surprised by one or two varieties each time. There are lots of others that I have grown fairly successfully in the past in the heat that I no longer grow because they have been replaced by ones that taste better to us. Some varieties really do taste much better in the hottest weather while others that are fantastic during the cooler weather of spring and early summer do not taste as good during the hottest weather or they tend to develop too many skin flaws and cracks.

Bill

[My Foot Smells]

Originally Posted by b54red

My favorites in very hot weather are:
Spudakee
JD's Special C Tex

I tend to grow at least one of the following in my later plant outs.

Frank's Large Red
Royal Hillbilly
Couilles de Taureau

Haven't heard of any of the above listed. I did look up the "spuda-kee" potato leaf cheriokee purple and picture looked tasty good. Tom Bio (TT Database) also listed a tomato named "Cherokee Potato Leaf," of maybe the same.