June 12, 2013 | #31 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
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Quote:
Bill |
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June 12, 2013 | #32 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Diego,Ca
Posts: 462
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Thank you Bill! I'm gonna go ahead and chop the two vines off and see how it goes and I will use the spray much sooner now that I know what to expect.
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June 12, 2013 | #33 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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The first time I used it on powdery mildew on squash I had allowed it to get to the point where only the very tips of the vines had any uninfected leaves. After I sprayed it looked like every leaf was dead but a few days later the new growth tips were growing fine and the plant was nearly full size again in a few weeks. I learned the hard way to use the spray sooner on my tomatoes also by letting some of them get Gray Mold on over 75% of the plant before I used it three years ago. I kept thinking the Daconil would slow it down and maybe it did but not nearly enough. Now as soon as I see the first sign of Gray Mold on tomatoes or any kind of mold or mildew on squash or cucumbers I spray right away. These squash plants in this picture had received three treatments when this picture was taken and they got another spraying on Monday. If I had not treated them they would have far fewer leaves. The early and quick treatment of diseases on squash, cucumbers and tomatoes has made a huge difference in how long my plants last. I'm a slow learner because I used to wait til the diseases got bad before using the treatment. Finally it dawned on me to use it early and often and the results of doing that have been so much better than delaying treatment.
Bill |
June 17, 2013 | #34 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Southern Virginia
Posts: 342
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Copper spray question....
Which cooper spray do use?
Thanks Bill.... |
June 17, 2013 | #35 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: MN
Posts: 142
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Timely post...Thanks Bill! The bleach spray worked wonders against gray mold in my garden last year, especially on the black tomatoes (which seem most susceptible). I was able to catch it early and move beyond it with the loss of only a few leaves. Compared to prior years, that was a miracle
One question. I don't recall using a surfactant in the spray before, and wonder if that's new to the mix? Or maybe I just spaced it out last year. At any rate, I'll be sure to add it this year. My garden thanks you! ps - It'd sure be nice if this thread was a sticky, so it'd stay up where I can find it.
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My garden is like a teenager - One minute I'm basking in it's glow and the next I'm cursing it's attitude and headstrong independence.
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June 17, 2013 | #36 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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I use Southern Ag liquid copper fungicide concentrate which I get at Home Depot. Word to the wise after learning he hard way... Mix at the WEAKEST concentration, it's still very very effective. Stronger makes the leaves curl and stunt and it slows down growth for about 2 weeks. And you already know to only spray early AM or late afternoon.
Marsha |
June 17, 2013 | #37 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
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Quote:
Bill |
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June 17, 2013 | #38 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2009
Location: GA
Posts: 55
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Bill,
Sorry if this question has been answered elsewhere ... I'm in a weather pattern of almost daily rain. How much bleach is too much? How often can I spray? Thanks, Mike |
June 17, 2013 | #39 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Quote:
This fall I want to try your beach mix. Marsha |
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June 17, 2013 | #40 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: northern new jersey
Posts: 683
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Say Red, I have an apply tree with leaves looking like fall leaves, little black spots and yellowish.. I was thinking maybe misting it with such of a solution you suggest. I fear it may be too late as the small 10ft tree leaves are all yellowing with tiny brown spots.I tried looking on youtube with no results..perhaps it is a type of fungus?
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john |
June 17, 2013 | #41 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Fairbanks Alaska, Zone 1
Posts: 10
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Will this work for Powdery mildew on a squash plant?
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June 18, 2013 | #42 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: long island
Posts: 327
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Thank you Red, will see how it goes I sprayed the tomatoes yesterday when it looked overcast and then suddenly the sun came out.. Hope I didn't cause to much damage..
Will do the squash tomorrow morning. |
June 18, 2013 | #43 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: WV
Posts: 17
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I sprayed with with mancozeb a few days ago, then after it dried applied Copper dragon which is in a powder form. I went out yesterday and for the most part , the plants that looked healthy before still do, but the ones I was watching I did go ahead and pull (about 4). Out of almost 80 plants I am down to about 40. I noticed my new apple tree losing leaves as well. my roses have lost most of the leaves with flowers dying mid bloom and turning brown.
Tammy |
June 18, 2013 | #44 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
I know that increasing the strength of the mix will get it to the point where it is harmful to healthy leaves; but that can vary according to weather conditions also. I recommend you go back to the first of this thread and start with the regular mix and if you get any leaf burn on new growth then cut the mix back a bit. If on the other hand you are dealing with Gray Mold or Septoria you may need to up the dose a bit for it to be more effective. I have found the spray to be most effective when sprayed late in the evening after the sun goes down. As you use the spray you will find what mix works best for your conditions so start a bit weaker and work up to the optimum concentration for the disease and conditions you are spraying under. Bill |
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June 18, 2013 | #45 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
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