December 16, 2014 | #31 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
|
I save mine and use them the same way. I started my second year after my tomatoes got BER really bad and have had no problems since, although I have changed and learned a lot since then...man I was such a noob gardener.
|
December 16, 2014 | #32 | |
BANNED
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 1,112
|
Quote:
Egg shells are a great idea, if one eats eggs. Breakdown is fairly rapid in organic gardening terms. Although Calcium Citrate meets the requirements for Certified Organic (USDA NOP), many people who garden by the organic philosophy will not accept it because the compound sold agriculturally is entirely man-made.
__________________
Richard _<||>_ |
|
December 16, 2014 | #33 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Florida (East Central Coast)
Posts: 78
|
Quote:
I didn't realize that we were talking about 100% mulch. I thought that I read that the leaf mulch was being used to top dress his garden plot. Also, for those who don't eat eggs, I have found that local restaurants will often gladly set them aside. You can easily gett 100 or more a day in such a way. |
|
December 16, 2014 | #34 | |
BANNED
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 1,112
|
Quote:
I have sold it in the past. Nowadays I sell Calcium Phosphite (not phosphate) to the inorganic growers, Calcium Lignosulfate to the NOP growers, and for the "organic philosophy" gardeners -- recommend local sources for Ca.
__________________
Richard _<||>_ |
|
December 16, 2014 | #35 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Florida (East Central Coast)
Posts: 78
|
Quote:
|
|
December 17, 2014 | #36 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2014
Location: illinois
Posts: 281
|
I till in hundreds of bags of leaves, grass clippings and plant residue in the fall. If leaves are used as a mulch, it will take the better part of summer for them to decompose. Either way you can't go wrong with natures gold. I don't have a clue as to what micro nutrients my soil might need. But after decades of leaves, horse manure,spent crops and cover cropping my garden seems very happy. What we grow is dependent upon plant genetics, weather and the soil. Take care of your dirt and your dirt will take care of you.
|
December 17, 2014 | #37 | |
BANNED
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 1,112
|
Quote:
__________________
Richard _<||>_ |
|
December 17, 2014 | #38 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2014
Location: illinois
Posts: 281
|
Quote:
I heat with wood but don't like the mess ash creates in the garden. Rather than compost it, I throw it in the pond. Thank you for reminding me not to waste free potash and other nutrients. |
|
December 17, 2014 | #39 | |
BANNED
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 1,112
|
Quote:
Potassium is the most overlooked nutrient for fruit production -- Dr. Thomas Ruehr, Plant Sciences, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo.
__________________
Richard _<||>_ |
|
December 17, 2014 | #40 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
|
Good idea on the wood ash. I have 5 fireplaces and lots of wood ash. I have been worried about over liming beds meant for peppers and tomatoes, but a little wood ash seems to be ok.
|
December 17, 2014 | #41 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Florida (East Central Coast)
Posts: 78
|
Quote:
Having a very rich organic substrate will go a long ways towards negating effects of PH imbalances. It's not an absolute statement to say that PH doesn't matter in organics, but it's not nearly as critical as with synthetic fertilizers. As long as the nutrients are there, readily available, and not being offset or locked out by something else, it's usually good. For the OP... I hope it's not off topic, because I know you're talking about leaf mulch. But have you ever considered using your leaves as part of a longer term strategy? Like lasagna gardening? Because I personally like a more "no-till" approach, so as not to disturb the soil web, destroy organisms, (especially worms) and to avoid disruption of carbon sequestration. |
|
December 17, 2014 | #42 |
BANNED
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 1,112
|
It appears you overapplied to the point of potassium toxicity. Plants have limits. More is not necessarily better. I computed 1 cup wood ash per 5 gallons per year or so as a reasonable limit.
__________________
Richard _<||>_ |
December 17, 2014 | #43 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
|
Quote:
I would not assume just because you read it, or read anything it is correct. Of course if you applied that to this post, you could probably ignore it! What the heck do I know! Last edited by drew51; December 18, 2014 at 08:39 AM. |
|
December 17, 2014 | #44 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
|
Yes, like PH which is notorious for locking nutrients out.Besides the potassium toxicity of ash, the PH was probably off the scale basic. When you stopped using them, the PH fell like a rock! Thus making nutrients became available once again. Also charcoal is the worst! It contains many additives, and such. You will never see it suggested to use in any garden. Wood ash yes, charcoal, absolutely not unless you like petroleum byproducts and chemical stabilizers.
Last edited by drew51; December 17, 2014 at 09:31 PM. |
December 17, 2014 | #45 | ||
BANNED
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 1,112
|
Quote:
Quote:
__________________
Richard _<||>_ |
||
|
|