New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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#31 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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#32 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brownville, Ne
Posts: 3,291
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The ambient temperature in my germinating basement does not get above 70 and my lighting system will not increase the temps more than a couple of degrees. My peppers do better when the soil temperature is between 80 and 85. I get germination but not so fast or healthy until the 80 degree temp. I am not sure my lighting system will change from the old fashioned fluorescents...but maybe.
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there's two things money can't buy; true love and home grown tomatoes. |
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#33 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Also just because the air temperature in a room is something doesn't mean everything in the room is the same.
You would think it is but it isn't. |
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#34 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: France
Posts: 554
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I'm perfectly aware the adviser is not the payer but I would hate spoiling a whole batch of seeds.
I use several heating mats, heating cables coupled to a thermostat. I suggest the following links about temperature. Personnally I aim at a germination of most seeds in 3 - 4 days, which means the highest recommended temperature. I sometimes cool down a bit at night. http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...927#post542927 http://tomclothier.hort.net/page11.html All the best Loulac |
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#35 |
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#36 | |
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#37 |
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Yes, I’m sure that room has fluctuations, given that it shares one wall with the unheated garage and has a couple of windows opposite. Right now we use t as a basement, this being Florida. Between the little ceramic heater and a fan I think I can even out the ambient temperature, and we’re only talking for 2 months anyway. By March we’re usually past any really cold weather.
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#38 | |
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#39 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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It does point out that room temperature is more than fine for most seed types including tomatoes and peppers, but I would like to see more information regarding the test data. If one is starting in a soil media, it would also be interesting to see a chart showing temperature/humidity vs. mold growth rates as well. After about 2 weeks at ~85F, I do recall seeing some mold development in a humid dome environment. How does mold affect germination, I don't know, but it seemed less likely for germination once mold set in. |
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#40 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: France
Posts: 554
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I just tried to help PlainJane by giving her plain information. Of course, one can go much deeper, U.S. universities have done valuable research on the subject, but their publications would be off-topic in this thread. Let me give additional simple information : http://sacmg.ucanr.edu/files/164220.pdf SOIL TEMPERATURE CONDITIONS FOR VEGETABLE SEED GERMINATION University of California . Nice charts http://www.kdcomm.net/~tomato/Tomato/start.html : “One can start your tomatoes beginning 6-8 weeks before setting them out in just about any type of container that can provide drainage. Just make sure to start with good seed and a sterile soil mix. I like to use a half-peat moss, half-vermiculite mix. Using a sterile mix will reduce the potential for soil borne disease problems. Pre-moisten the mix slightly before planting. Plant seed about 1/4" (7mm) deep, cover with soil and water. Seed should emerge in about 3-5 days at a temperature of 75-80F/24-27C degrees (min 50F/10C max 95F/35C). Optimum temperatures for growth are 65-80F/18-27C days and 60-65F/16-18C nights. During germination, place them on the top of a refrigerator near the back to act as a heating source. Wait till after the seeds have germinated to put them in light as some genotypes (or varieties) require dark for germination to occur.” You will notice that soil temperature, not air temperature should be taken into account. Of course, you can bury a thermometer into the soil but burying the sensor of a thermostat will remain the safest way to control the heat”. I suggest : https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Fahren...TE4A1M8EFZK9EQ Bayite AC 110V Fahrenheit Digital Temperature Controller 10A 1 Relay with Sensor Price: $17.90 The model was sold for years by Willhi. I’ve got some, they have been working perfectly for years. Directions for use on youtube : How to set up Willhi Wh 7016 temperature controller installation. DIY ... All the best Loulac |
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#41 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Near Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,940
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#42 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Red Neck would be keeping them next to a nursing Blue tick hound dog on the guest bed.
Worth |
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#43 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Virginia Bch, VA (7b)
Posts: 1,337
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I use Jumpstart heating mats. No thermostat, but it works for me. Doesn't overcook
my seeds. I have some now germinating on it. |
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#44 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,124
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I use several heat mats. One is a real cheapie that is about 20 watts that I use under a 10 x 20 tray for starting seeds. I've had it about 10 years, and it cost about $16 when I bought it. No thermostat, so I regulate the temperature by having the clear lid partially open.
I have two others that are the heavy rubber type that I use in the garage for when the plants are too big for my indoor shelf. About 60 watts each with plugin thermostat. Those cost around $40 - $50, but they are much better quality. Some new catalogs show them going north of $100 each!!! Ouch! Last edited by Greatgardens; December 26, 2018 at 11:28 AM. |
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#45 | |
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