soil test results.....beyond reclamation?

[Stvrob]

Originally Posted by Worth1

Same thing happened in Houston, kids were getting sores from playing in the yard if I recall.
A friend of mine from Buffalo New York used to ride with his dad to dump hazardous waste.

The place they dumped it at was Love Canal.

Here is a link to one in Houston.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.b2w&cad=rja

Not to get off subject of your land but the statement of a soil test made me think of it.

Just a warning to people thinking about moving and buying property.
They can pretty up a hell hole and you would never know it.

Worth

Always take a soil auger and grab some samples before buying land.

[Keiththibodeaux]

You might like this

http://www.growingagreenerworld.com/...ampaign=buffer

[Gardeneer]

BUMP:

On the subject of Soil Test:
Rather than atarting a new thread , I revived this one, in orther to get some opinions and discussion over soil chemistry.

I have just done some soil analysis/test and result are back :

synopsis on one of the samples: MEASURED / OPTIMUM.... comment
Organic Matter ... 16.4 / 10 ? .... High
pH .... 6.4 / 6.8 ........ Near Perfect
Nitrogen (NO3-N ).... 1 / 70-200 ..... Very very low: Rain washed...
P (Weak Bray ?) ....69 / 30 ..... High ( This is often the case )
K (potassium) ... 206 / 150 .... slightly high ( This is often the case )
Mg (Magnesium) .. 195 / 150 ... Good @ CEC of 14
Ca (Calcium) .... 2112 / 200-250 .... High (no more Tums & eggshells . hehe)
Na (sodium) ..... 22 / 80 ..... Low (Now I can use rock salt to kill the slugs)
S (sulfur SO4 - S) ...... ... 5 / 70-200 ....Very Low.... Recommended gypsum. But it can increase Ca ??? Perhaps I should look into sulfates.Have to figure out.
TRACE ELEMENTS : They are either low or not measured for example Fe and Mn missing. Need to add Azomite.

Need advice:
My pH is just right. I don't want to alter it.
My Calcium is already high . I don't want to get it highe
My S and Fe (sulfur and Iron) are low

Just One of the sample reports:
Any suggestions, comments appreciated. ....Gardeneer

[Redbaron]

I think you are good to go as long as you have worms and mycorrhizal fungi. Plenty of SOM to have locked up even maybe too much nitrogen, but as the SOM gets digested by the soil biota, it will become available for the plants in a process called mineralization. The key here for you is to give the soil microbes and worms a chance to catch up. Something like this might help: Mycogrow

ps. The Haney test gives you a better idea of exactly how much nitrogen will be released due to biological activity. I am just making an educated guess since the type of soil test you got was designed for standard NPK fertilizers, not organic biological based fertility.

[Gardeneer]

Thanks Redbaron,

I know for most parts, I am fine.
Is ther a product in BBS for adding mycorrhizal fungi ? I don't do mail and internet shopping. But I think there are worms in my garden and a lot of mushrooms pop up in the spring time.
I would also want to get some azomite.

Gardeneer

[Redbaron]

Originally Posted by Gardeneer

Thanks Redbaron,

I know for most parts, I am fine.
Is ther a product in BBS for adding mycorrhizal fungi ? I don't do mail and internet shopping. But I think there are worms in my garden and a lot of mushrooms pop up in the spring time.
I would also want to get some azomite.

Gardeneer

Yes here is one Jobe's organic Water Soluble Heirloom Tomato and Vegetable Plant Food

[Redbaron]

Originally Posted by Gardeneer

Thanks Redbaron,

I know for most parts, I am fine.
Is ther a product in BBS for adding mycorrhizal fungi ? I don't do mail and internet shopping. But I think there are worms in my garden and a lot of mushrooms pop up in the spring time.
I would also want to get some azomite.

Gardeneer

Yes here is one Jobe's organic Water Soluble Heirloom Tomato and Vegetable Plant Food
Probably only need to use it at transplant time.

[KC.Sun]

http://waltsorganic.com/shop/

Here is an alternative source. They are based in Washington.

[Worth1]

Just hit the beds with Miracle Squirt and be done with it.
Worth

[UFXEFU]

You got good soil, just add a little ammonia nitrate and magnesium sulfate.

[Redbaron]

Originally Posted by UFXEFU

You got good soil, just add a little ammonia nitrate and magnesium sulfate.

You see the forum we are in? Your recommendation, while certainly will work, is the opposite of soil building 101. Closer to soil deterioration 101.

Now it is true that his soil is good enough that it will be many years before that type of treatment will degrade the soil, why start in the wrong direction? Apparent he has worked very hard to improve this soil.

[UFXEFU]

Originally Posted by Redbaron

You see the forum we are in? Your recommendation, while certainly will work, is the opposite of soil building 101. Closer to soil deterioration 101.

Now it is true that his soil is good enough that it will be many years before that type of treatment will degrade the soil, why start in the wrong direction? Apparent he has worked very hard to improve this soil.

My advice may not build the soil, but it will grow tomatoes in his already good soil. To be more specific, I would use 2 lbs. 8-0-8 per 50 ft. row and 2 tablespoons of magnesium sulfate per planting hole. That's what I would do if it was my garden..... just saying.

[Redbaron]

Originally Posted by UFXEFU

My advice may not build the soil, but it will grow tomatoes in his already good soil. To be more specific, I would use 2 lbs. 8-0-8 per 50 ft. row and 2 tablespoons of magnesium sulfate per planting hole. That's what I would do if it was my garden..... just saying.

You do understand the point though right? Organic methods can obtain nitrogen for plant growth from organic matter through a process called mineralization. SO while there are other ways to obtain nitrogen, what you described actually reduces soil biology, reducing mineralization, setting you on a path towards needing more and more ammonium nitrate over time. Since he has very high organic matter, additional ammonium nitrate is not needed as long as the soil health is good. Now if he had low organic matter in the soil test AND low nitrogen, then a bit of a boost would help. But in this case, long run, ammonium nitrate hurts more than helps, except possibly a bit of a mild boost just at transplant time, just so the plant can get some help before the symbiosis between soil biota and the seedling is established. Preferably not ammonium nitrate though, as that harms much of the soil biota.

From the USDA:

"When farmers view soil health not as an abstract virtue, but as a real asset, it revolutionizes the way they farm and radically reduces their dependence on inputs to produce food and fiber." -USDA

[Barbee]

So those of us who choose to use non organic methods to improve our soil or a combination of organics and non organics are not allowed to post in this forum? Is that what you're saying?

[UFXEFU]

Originally Posted by Redbaron

You do understand the point though right? Organic methods can obtain nitrogen for plant growth from organic matter through a process called mineralization. SO while there are other ways to obtain nitrogen, what you described actually reduces soil biology, reducing mineralization, setting you on a path towards needing more and more ammonium nitrate over time. Since he has very high organic matter, additional ammonium nitrate is not needed as long as the soil health is good. Now if he had low organic matter in the soil test AND low nitrogen, then a bit of a boost would help. But in this case, long run, ammonium nitrate hurts more than helps, except possibly a bit of a mild boost just at transplant time, just so the plant can get some help before the symbiosis between soil biota and the seedling is established. Preferably not ammonium nitrate though, as that harms much of the soil biota.

From the USDA:

Thanks for the information, that's why I'm adding leaves to my garden over the winter to raise the organic content. Even with a high organic content and low nitrogen plants are not going to thrive. I'm new to soil building, so how long will it take for enough nitrogen to be added through mineralization to allow plants to thrive without commercial nitrogen?