Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (w/ Pix) - Page 3

**nctomatoman** · March 23, 2007

Sungold is very, very susceptible to foliage spotting early in the season, especially when cool and rainy. I've seen this many times - the plants recover when the weather warms up.

feldon30 · March 24, 2007

The thing is, once you identify TSWV, you're supposed to pull and trash the plant immediately to prevent your other plants from getting infected by tomato-hopping thrips.

Sucks to wait. Sucks to pull the trigger.

If I got wiped out by TSWV one year, then I'd probably reach for a nasty chemical if I knew it would work particularly well the next.

So it was nice to find this article (which I'm sure some folks here have already read and may have even been linked to already) which says that after trying both really toxic insecticides and less toxic insecticides, they found the most effective solution was tin foil hats. No wait, I mean highly UV-reflective mulch. So we may have found a way to foil this problem.

I really shouldn't post before I've had coffee.

amideutch · March 24, 2007

All, Check out Polar_Lace's thread concerning putting pie tins at the base of the plants. She might have something. This might help in controlling thrips according to what Feldon found concerning reflective mulch. Ami
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=2883

grizlbr · July 7, 2011

Guess I will take a mirror so I can see underside of leaves? The eye level 6 foot portion of my Early Girl looks OK? If she has a STD? Seeds are ok stop rooting suckers????

Is there a chart of diseases to determine what if is going on?

honu · March 25, 2007

Vince chemist, Are the growing tips of the plant affected? Does your plant appear to be stunted?
According to a plant pathologist at our University, viral symptoms are often most obvious in an area of active cell division, i.e., the youngest leaves, the growing tip.
A publication from our University of Hawaii College of Tropical Agriculture says of TSWV:
"Tomato plant growth ceases and senescence is promoted after infection with spotted wilt virus. In older plants, leaves near the growing tips show dark, bronze or purplish, circular necrotic spots. Fruits also show circular concentric marks. Tomato spotted wilt virus is the only virus known to be transmitted by thrips."

**Lee** · March 26, 2007

Great information folks! Honu, that description is spot on. (excuse the pun..)
Univ of Fla is also another really good source of information about this problem.
I don't have the ariticles handy, but I saw a report of some research they did
that determined over-fertilization (N mainly) tended to increase the likelihood of
infection, perhaps by attracting more of the vectors (thrips)....

This is a great post Vince, and I sincerely hope you don't have TSWV!

Lee

P.S. Anyone think we should take the information here and add it to the TSWV
sticky as well?

MsCowpea · March 26, 2007

feldon30, that article is similar to one that I read (may have been the same authors) that also advocated the use of spinosad. I found it in a small quantity at Garden's Alive in the product Bulls-Eye. Peaceful Valley (groworganic.com) also has a smaller container by Monterey.

It is supposedly less toxic to beneficials (though still very toxic to bees). I used it very sparingly and found it effective at killing the thrips. The problem is that once you see thrips on the plants they can already be infected w/TSWV.

I have also used aluminum foil on earth boxes instead of the plastic mulch. Not much of a test though because the plants quickly grew and covered the foil thereby completely defeating its purpose.

Recently had a conversation with 2 certified organic growers who grow south of me and they have never experienced TSWV. They are in the heart of tomato growing land. They recommended releasing beneficials that control thrips. I had considered this a couple years ago but never got around to it. I will look into it again.

NCTIM · June 6, 2007

It looks as though my Stump of the World has got the junk. I lost two plants last year to TSWV. I first noticed the problem yesterday and a mere 24 hrs later it has progressed quite a bit. I'll get rid of the plant today.

Tim

shelleybean · June 6, 2007

Oh, that sucks, Tim. I lost a Stump to TSWV last season. I was hoping with the colder winter we had, this wouldn't be such a problem. I'll keep a close eye on my plants. Good luck with the rest of yours!

feldon30 · June 6, 2007

Tongue planted firmly in cheek...

blahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblah

shelleybean · June 6, 2007

I just put out the blue sticky traps. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

hasshoes · June 6, 2007

Is this that?

Most of my plants seem to have it. . .

It happened the day after I went a bit crazy with the Serenade and the Neem oil. . .

shelleybean · June 6, 2007

That does not look like TSWV to me. No spots. Look back at the first page of this thread for pictures.

hasshoes · June 6, 2007

there are spots, it's just so bright out it's not capturing well. . . look at the first picture just above where the leaf is brown. . .

also, on some of the plants, the new spots are still just super tiny. . .

**Mischka** · June 11, 2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by hasshoes

Is this that?

Most of my plants seem to have it. . .

It happened the day after I went a bit crazy with the Serenade and the Neem oil. . .

What mix ratio did you use when you mixed the Neem oil with water, or did you buy one of those ready-to-use premixed solutions? Too much Neem oil will leave your plants with a coating, much like using a suntan lotion without sunscreen....a sunburn is sure to follow.

Neem oil on tomato plants, while somewhat effective on pests, also has the potential to turn leaves crispy if not mixed completely with an emulsifier, such as common hand dishwashing liquid.

Last question - did you apply the Serenade and Neem at the same time?

March 23, 2007	#1
nctomatoman Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7 Posts: 10,385	Sungold is very, very susceptible to foliage spotting early in the season, especially when cool and rainy. I've seen this many times - the plants recover when the weather warms up. __________________ Craig

March 24, 2007	#3
amideutch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E Posts: 5,041	All, Check out Polar_Lace's thread concerning putting pie tins at the base of the plants. She might have something. This might help in controlling thrips according to what Feldon found concerning reflective mulch. Ami http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=2883 __________________ Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!'

March 26, 2007	#6
Lee Tomatopalooza™ Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NC-Zone 7 Posts: 2,188	Great information folks! Honu, that description is spot on. (excuse the pun..) Univ of Fla is also another really good source of information about this problem. I don't have the ariticles handy, but I saw a report of some research they did that determined over-fertilization (N mainly) tended to increase the likelihood of infection, perhaps by attracting more of the vectors (thrips).... This is a great post Vince, and I sincerely hope you don't have TSWV! Lee P.S. Anyone think we should take the information here and add it to the TSWV sticky as well? __________________ Intelligence is knowing a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing not to put one in a fruit salad. Cuostralee - The best thing on sliced bread.

March 26, 2007	#7
MsCowpea Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: S. FLorida / Zone 10 Posts: 369	feldon30, that article is similar to one that I read (may have been the same authors) that also advocated the use of spinosad. I found it in a small quantity at Garden's Alive in the product Bulls-Eye. Peaceful Valley (groworganic.com) also has a smaller container by Monterey. It is supposedly less toxic to beneficials (though still very toxic to bees). I used it very sparingly and found it effective at killing the thrips. The problem is that once you see thrips on the plants they can already be infected w/TSWV. I have also used aluminum foil on earth boxes instead of the plastic mulch. Not much of a test though because the plants quickly grew and covered the foil thereby completely defeating its purpose. Recently had a conversation with 2 certified organic growers who grow south of me and they have never experienced TSWV. They are in the heart of tomato growing land. They recommended releasing beneficials that control thrips. I had considered this a couple years ago but never got around to it. I will look into it again. __________________ "When we kill off the natural enemies of a pest we inherit their work." Carl Huffaker

June 6, 2007	#8
NCTIM Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: zone 8 NC Posts: 286	my Stump of the World has TSWV It looks as though my Stump of the World has got the junk. I lost two plants last year to TSWV. I first noticed the problem yesterday and a mere 24 hrs later it has progressed quite a bit. I'll get rid of the plant today. Tim __________________ "You can observe a lot by just watching." - Yogi Berra

March 24, 2007	#2
feldon30 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2006 Location: Rock Hill, SC Posts: 5,346	The thing is, once you identify TSWV, you're supposed to pull and trash the plant immediately to prevent your other plants from getting infected by tomato-hopping thrips. Sucks to wait. Sucks to pull the trigger. If I got wiped out by TSWV one year, then I'd probably reach for a nasty chemical if I knew it would work particularly well the next. So it was nice to find this article (which I'm sure some folks here have already read and may have even been linked to already) which says that after trying both really toxic insecticides and less toxic insecticides, they found the most effective solution was tin foil hats. No wait, I mean highly UV-reflective mulch. So we may have found a way to foil this problem. I really shouldn't post before I've had coffee.

July 7, 2011	#4
grizlbr Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Ga Posts: 9	Guess I will take a mirror so I can see underside of leaves? The eye level 6 foot portion of my Early Girl looks OK? If she has a STD? Seeds are ok stop rooting suckers???? Is there a chart of diseases to determine what if is going on?

March 25, 2007	#5
honu Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Hawaii Posts: 270	Vince chemist, Are the growing tips of the plant affected? Does your plant appear to be stunted? According to a plant pathologist at our University, viral symptoms are often most obvious in an area of active cell division, i.e., the youngest leaves, the growing tip. A publication from our University of Hawaii College of Tropical Agriculture says of TSWV: "Tomato plant growth ceases and senescence is promoted after infection with spotted wilt virus. In older plants, leaves near the growing tips show dark, bronze or purplish, circular necrotic spots. Fruits also show circular concentric marks. Tomato spotted wilt virus is the only virus known to be transmitted by thrips."

June 6, 2007	#9
shelleybean Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Virginia Beach Posts: 2,648	Oh, that sucks, Tim. I lost a Stump to TSWV last season. I was hoping with the colder winter we had, this wouldn't be such a problem. I'll keep a close eye on my plants. Good luck with the rest of yours! __________________ Michele

June 6, 2007	#10
feldon30 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2006 Location: Rock Hill, SC Posts: 5,346	Tongue planted firmly in cheek... blahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblahblah

June 6, 2007	#14
hasshoes Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: MT Posts: 438	there are spots, it's just so bright out it's not capturing well. . . look at the first picture just above where the leaf is brown. . . also, on some of the plants, the new spots are still just super tiny. . .