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Old May 27, 2013   #31
SIP Gro-Tubs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie View Post
I have an "EZ-Flow" injector that I'm going to try next to see if it makes any difference. I was not a fan of its design, but maybe I can make it work for a high tunnel.
EZ Flow is a good injector, I even own 2 myself, and the 3/4 gl size I, would take to plant shows, trade shows, farmers mkt's to show customers.

But if are a commercial grower in high tunnel culture try a Dostron
Dosatron® Fertilizer Injectors

Dosatron® Fertilizer Injectors ensure precise dosing continuously and economically. Ideal for dispensing fertilizer, fungicides, pesticides, algicides, disinfectants and surfactants.• Ideal for use in greenhouses, for irrigation, sanitizing, foam cleaning, pressure washing and pest control.
• Operates without electricity, using only water pressure as power source.
• Provides proper injection ratio regardless of the water flow. Maximum water temperature: 104°F.
• Proportional, volumetric metering for accuracy and dependability.
• On-demand dispensing eliminates waste.
• External ratio adjustments.
• Units are self-priming up to 13' vertically.
• Easy to install and maintain.
• Operating manual included.

I've had mine for 20+ years, they are heavyduty, and even can be used in a dolly sytem, or cart. Just pull up, do 2 hookups and turn the water on.

Terry Layman
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Old May 27, 2013   #32
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I use 6 75' flat soaker hoses for the major part of my garden. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Melnor-Fla...-Hose/19725086
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Old May 27, 2013   #33
PA_Julia
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I use a hose with a long wand and water at the base of my tomato plants.

The only time I don't do this is when I catch rain water in a barrel and then I transfer it into empty milk jugs to be used instead of the hose.
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Old May 27, 2013   #34
Cole_Robbie
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Thanks. Something like the Dosatron will be my next upgrade. They are more expensive though, $350-$400 or so I think.
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Old May 27, 2013   #35
Heritage
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Sprayers shouldn't make the back pressure that drip tape does and should have higher flow. The low flow of drip doesn't make enough suction for the Hozon unless it's a very big garden.
Yes, there has to be unrestricted flow on the output for the Hozon type injector to function. If there isn't enough pressure difference between the IN and OUT, it won't work. (It will work for a few minutes until the line fills up and then it will quit)

Cole, keep your eye on Craigslist for farmers going out of business/retiring and selling their injectors - you might pick up a 3/4"-1" Dosmatic or Dosatron (two good brands) at a fraction of the new price. Ask them when they last overhauled it.

Steve
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Old May 28, 2013   #36
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That is a good idea. The Hozon worked great on a drip setup for me last year, but I was running at least six 300 ft rows at a time, which is about 1/3rd of a mile The flow on that much drip tape is enough to make the Hozon work well.
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Old May 28, 2013   #37
mike5953
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I really like the shrubbler emitters they are adjustable and water in a circle pattern. You can water in a small area or in one as big as a about a foot.
I've been using the DripWorks Shrubblers for my tomatoes, peppers, squash, and roses for several years now. They provide very good water control and are low maintenance (though, even with an in-line filter, they still manage to get clogged every once in a while).

I started out with DripWorks' base kit that includes plastic water lines, filter, pressure regulator, fittings, etc.
Heart of the Garden Kit
Then added a Rose and Shrub kit that includes all the Shubbler emitters, hose, and fittings.
Rose and Shrub Add-On

Add in a good timer, and I feel relatively confident that my garden won't wilt while I'm off on vacation or when it gets so hot in summer that I get lazy with my outside chores

As to the timer... I've gone through several of those, and have finally found a relatively inexpensive one that lasts more than one growing season.
Orbit Digital Water Timer
Just make sure to cover the timer so that it's protected from rainwater. I use the Recycled Bleach Bottle method that's shown in the link, but added a couple layers of plastic cling wrap and some large twist ties to make doubly sure that water stays out. It's not pretty, but it works.
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Old May 28, 2013   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike5953 View Post
I started out with DripWorks' base kit that includes plastic water lines, filter, pressure regulator, fittings, etc.
Heart of the Garden Kit




As to the timer... I've gone through several of those, and have finally found a relatively inexpensive one that lasts more than one growing season.
Orbit Digital Water Timer
Mike

As to your, filter did it come with a 200 mesh screen? Also even tho there is a removable cap at the bottom of the filter the inside of the screen may be clogged or torn. Best to remove the filter body and using a old toothbrush, scrub lightly the interior of the screen. Backflushing doesn't always work for cleaning.

Also check to make sure the O rings are still good, sometimes they will fall out taking the filter apart. A bad ring or missing ring will bypass the filter.

Also installing a whole house water filter at the source of your water, will alleviate a lot of sediment downline.

Home Depot is a distributor also of Orbit parts, Lowes carries Rainbird.

Terry
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Old May 28, 2013   #39
mike5953
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Quote:
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Mike

As to your, filter did it come with a 200 mesh screen? Also even tho there is a removable cap at the bottom of the filter the inside of the screen may be clogged or torn. Best to remove the filter body and using a old toothbrush, scrub lightly the interior of the screen. Backflushing doesn't always work for cleaning.

Also check to make sure the O rings are still good, sometimes they will fall out taking the filter apart. A bad ring or missing ring will bypass the filter.

Also installing a whole house water filter at the source of your water, will alleviate a lot of sediment downline.

Home Depot is a distributor also of Orbit parts, Lowes carries Rainbird.

Terry
Terry,
It did come with a 200 mesh filter.
I check it at the beginning of each season, and so far it's in good repair.
I think that most of my clogs happen at the Shrubbler end when dirt and debris covers the emitter after a storm or when I'm fertilizing, etc.
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Old May 28, 2013   #40
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Quote:
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Terry,
It did come with a 200 mesh filter.
I check it at the beginning of each season, and so far it's in good repair.
I think that most of my clogs happen at the Shrubbler end when dirt and debris covers the emitter after a storm or when I'm fertilizing, etc.
A Shrubbler should't clog unless there isn't a backflow preventer in line, or if there is maybe its not working right.

I've never had that problem with them. One way we did use them is to run a 3/4" black poly tubing across the top of field grown pots, and having a Shrubbler for each pot.

Terry
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Old May 28, 2013   #41
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Originally Posted by macmanmatty View Post
for tomatoes no irrigation needed. water on the leaves causes diseases and the less of that the better. Here is my no watering planting method. Start the plants early and get them big. You want about as tall as your water table is deep. My water table is about at 24-30 inches at planting time so I get them about that tall. Then at planting time I get out the post hole diggers and dig until I hit the water table then back fill about with about 1-2 inches of native soil on top of the water. Then plant and cover all stem and leaves up to the first set or two. No irrigation needed.
I do something similar with an auger and an electric drill but my plants are smaller. I rather like the idea of setting out large plants. Why water if you don't have to.
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Old May 30, 2013   #42
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My tomato plants this year are not on drip yet. I dug a hole about a foot deep with a post hole digger into clay that had not been tilled. The hole got compost and fertilizers. I watered them at planting, and the holes hold the water well.
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Old May 30, 2013   #43
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I don't use an irrigation system. I mulch with wood chips. My goal is to water rarely, if at all.

I also only have 1,000 sq. feet of garden, but I like to experiment with re-configuring my plants so I would not want to be locked into a design or pattern. Last year, my first year, I planted rows. this year I'm both intercropping and using rows.
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Old May 30, 2013   #44
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I buried my tomatoes at somewhere around 18" deep on rows that were 12" high. Granted my tomato plants were pretty massive when I planted them, I have noticed that so far I rarely have to water them. The water from mother nature has been more than enough. Now my pepper plants are another story. I bought them from a local GH and they were average size so I planted them about 5 inches deep. The pepper plants tend to wilt if there isnt any rain and I dont water them for about 3-4 days. The are not planted on hill row just flat on the ground. When I did use the 6 runs of flat 75' fabric soaker hose it worked very nicely. So far I have only watered my garden about 3 times, mother nature has been helping out alot this year with water.
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Old June 28, 2013   #45
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Just to add my 2 cents worth.
I have semi raised beds for specials. Melons, Blueberries, strawberries and obviously Tomatoes. Each plant needs a different watering system.
So I use 1/2 inch supply hose, with 1/4 inch off that feeding shubblers and also drippers at the plant end. Some up to 25 feet long, with drippers at each plant position.
At each bed hose connection I have a cut off connector (see photo) which when disconnected cuts off the supply. Now I can irrigate while working, cut off one bed and move to the second without having to go back to the source to shut off the supply. Saves a tremendous amount of walking back and forth down my long garden.
Available from http://www.leevalley.com/en/Garden/p...2,2280&p=49657 also in the USA
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