New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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#31 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: CT
Posts: 290
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Haven't used plain sand, but I have had good results in the past with straight perlite.. it does wick up moisture more than you'd think (with a 2" internal res at the bottom). I don't see why sand wouldn't be effective early on, but would have a low CEC moving forward without some organic matter added to the mix..
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#32 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: the garden state
Posts: 38
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mike723, I did have second thoughts after watching some alternatives.. perhaps you are right that i can make my own..some tomato guy on youtube mixes peat moss a few shovels and a hand full of 10/10/10 and 1/3 cup pulv. lime right when he digs a hole for each plant , he mixes it and sets the plant deep and hills it,, also going to try epsom and mg garden soil..home depot also has a 50lb. bag of black cow manure too so today I'm going to stock it all in the yard shed.. it all I should need for this year,, my beds are already growing green with weeds so that is a good sign i been doing something right last several seasons. But the milorganite works great on the lawn and so thinking it says "for veggies too" on the bag ,, I thought why not, it can't hurt,, but i don't need it and these days , I especially do not trust the government.. I never trust what they do to our tap water either.. here in northern nj ,, our tap water smell strong of chlorine almost like my swimming pool!
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#33 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: CT
Posts: 290
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This year will be much different for me though as I'll be growing in the hoophouse for the first time.. I also planted a hairy vetch cover crop which should provide about 80+% of my nitrogen needs.. I'll hold off on the alfalfa and maybe go 1/2 strength or less with the tomato-tone. Look into the Gard'n Gro filter to neutralize your chlorine issues: http://www.amazon.com/Rainshowr-GG-2...+filter+garden -Mike |
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#34 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Everett, WA (Zn 8)
Posts: 101
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Being a noob, I'm wondering what the thoughts are against starting in potting mix. I've never had any problems but heard that I should be using a peat, starting mix, or other medium?
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#35 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: southeastern PA
Posts: 760
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j, I think the most important reasons to use a "starter" mix is that it's
sterile-less likely to have damping off issues, weed seeds. Also, it's very fine and light textured, easier for young roots to grow through. Many potting mixes have added fertilizer which could burn young roots although it's not too usual to see worm casings added to starter (I sometimes add a small amount to my starter mix). |
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#36 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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I think they tend to hold more water than starting mixes. People often overwater young seedlings and the heavier mixes tend to exacerbate the problem. As greyghost mentioned, added ferts are more common in potting mixes, too, as well as additives to retain moisture longer.
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#37 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: zone 5
Posts: 821
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For me I use anything provided:
1. It does not have moisture retention additives in it. 2. It does not have fertilizers added. 3. It does not have "beneficial" fungi in it. 4. It does not smell like chemicals 5. It does not contain "Miracle" in its name or in its family line. Lately I mix a lot of my own using coir and vermiculite |
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#38 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: the garden state
Posts: 38
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#39 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: the garden state
Posts: 38
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#40 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Southlake, TX
Posts: 743
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I've been using the Lady Bug brand seed starter called "germinator". I've had amazing results with it, it's not sterile, though, but it hasn't been a problem and I'd say in my case it probably helped. I had lot of fuzzy mold growing over one batch that I used over 2 years, but I never had any damping off issues or other problems, the seedlings loved it and always grew nice and strong. So any mold in that mix was certainly a good mold or fungus. Some mold/fungus types are a sign of healthy soil (some form symbiotic relationships with a plant's root system), so if it ain't broke don't fix it
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