March 9, 2013 | #451 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Parma, OH
Posts: 147
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Quote:
I bought the Ultrasorb and filled up 75 paper pots and have at least 12lbs left. I'm going to use the dense planting method and should have plenty left for 300-400 starters before i bring in my much more expensive usual mix. |
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March 9, 2013 | #452 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Remember this stuff needs to be bottom watered when starting seed. Don't know how that will work with paper pots.
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March 9, 2013 | #453 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 637
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Thanks RayR. Planting day is soooo close.
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March 9, 2013 | #454 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 610
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We've made paper pots for 15+ years and I find the density of the moist DE to be too heavy for paper pot, unless you use tape which we don't. After trying one in a paper pot I've resorted to using plastic plugs, that in it self creates a problem with them leaking DE out of the bottom drain holes.
Last edited by neoguy; March 9, 2013 at 05:37 PM. |
March 9, 2013 | #455 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Never used DE in them, but paper pots are bottom watered. The paper acts like a wick. It would seem to be compatible. I am very interested in seeing the results though! Next year I may use DE myself. As he said, Optisorb is significantly cheaper than a high quality soil-less seed starting mix. And paper is basically free for the recycling. So if it works it would make an old cheapskate like me very happy to use it!
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
March 9, 2013 | #456 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 692
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Quote:
I plan to try this when the time comes. |
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March 9, 2013 | #457 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Texas Coastal Bend
Posts: 3,205
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Quote:
I used square cotton for makeup removal and such, it worked well to stop the DE from coming out of the bottom holes but when I transplanted it made it difficult to remove from the tray. It was also difficult to separate the seedlings because the roots grew into the cotton. I think my next try will be to use the plastic cups from the coffee pot, it might help in the recycling of stuff too. It is wasteful but I don't use it as much as I do the regular pot.
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In the spring at the end of the day you should smell like dirt ~Margaret Atwood~ |
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March 9, 2013 | #458 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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I haven't owned a drip coffee maker in over ten years, but for some reason I still had a package of basket filters in a kitchen cabinet. I flattened out some filters and trimmed them into a large square, then cut that into four smaller squares. Before I fill the pot, I dip a square of filter material into some water and them push into the bottom of the pot. It seems to be working great so far.
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March 11, 2013 | #459 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Yes, I found out the hard way about DE and large drain holes. I now use almost exclusively egg cartons and make several holes in each cell that are small enough to keep most of the DE in and yet allow quick bottom watering. When I use a larger pot with regular drain holes I just put some bark fines in the bottom and then fill with DE.
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March 13, 2013 | #460 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Parma, OH
Posts: 147
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The paper pots just help the wicking. No problems at all with them and no need for holes in the bottom. So far so good. Will update with photos and results.
Edit* I see no need for drain holes with the paper pots. They wick and drain very well without them. I bottom watered the newly made paper pots filled with DE and they sucked it right up to the top. I used trays (like you see at fast food joints) to keep them on. Put some saran wrap on top (not tight) and heating pads on low at the bottom of the trays. Last edited by kevn357; March 13, 2013 at 02:00 AM. |
March 13, 2013 | #461 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I even quit using the plastic wrap over the top when using DE because the seed sprouted so fast without it.
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March 13, 2013 | #462 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tucson, Arizona (catalina)
Posts: 413
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yeah, I quit using a plastic cover with DE also, it seems to hold enough moisture and has virtually eliminated dampening off disease on my tomatoes, peppers and eggplants... fantastic stuff ... what a trick. I've started mixing pro mix hp 50/50 with the large size DE and filling the bottom 1/4 of the cups with it then filling with large DE, laying the seeds on top of the watered DE and then covering a 1/4 inch on top with the dry small size DE. It keeps the DE from dropping out the bottom of my commercially punched drain holes.
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Hangin on for dear life! |
March 13, 2013 | #463 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Turkey
Posts: 393
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Micro Tom started setting fruit.
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...811#post333811 |
March 14, 2013 | #464 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Parma, OH
Posts: 147
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I had a "stump of the world" germinate in 18 hours with the DE. No south facing window either. Don't have any available . I also have 35 varieties with no germination after 72 hours so that was weird. I need to get these guys some sun!
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March 15, 2013 | #465 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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18 hours, I like when that happens. 72 hours would be nice too, but that doesn't happen often.
They don't need light, they need heat. Got them on bottom heat? |
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