New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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December 26, 2018 | #1 | |
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December 26, 2018 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Tomato Cornhole
Posts: 2,550
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Don't over think it, it's used to start seeds not grow plants on that's why it's called a seed starting mat and not a growing mat so just grab a cheap one and go with it. Remove the flats after the seeds pop and you'll never have to worry about burning your plants.
I have the plain Jane he he! iPower Seedling Heat Mat without a t-stat and they have been working as described=10-20° above ambient temperature. They withstood the moisture in the greenhouse for 2 years so for the price I can't complain. You can also get them from Prime if you have it.
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December 26, 2018 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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Exactly. You'll gain a few extra days (to a point), then after 85F or so it can be diminishing returns with lower germination rates. Most every study shows tomato and pepper seeds germinate just fine at room temperatures (68-72F). Germination "rate" is fine, germination "time" is a few days delayed.
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December 27, 2018 | #4 | |
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It’s the peppers that (seem to) take forever. |
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December 27, 2018 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: France
Posts: 554
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Just because they need more heat than tomatoes. If I try to have most seeds germinate at the same time it's because I find it difficult to keep a correct dampness for seedlings and still dormant seeds in the same flat. Of course it's not a problem for small batches. It would be interesting to know how professional growers find a solution. |
December 27, 2018 | #6 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: MA
Posts: 903
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Even when germinating all seeds of-one-kind in a flat, many days separate the first ones from the laggards. As Loulac mentions, the dormant seeds and seedlings need different environment, not only moisture, but also different heat and light ideally. I've settled on using "removable" media, either tiny 2x2 square pots (with one or 2 seeds per) or peat pucks in my germinating trays. I inspect every day for emerging seedlings, and immediately remove them to a cooler shelf under intense lights. I then can replenish the vacant spots with new seeds and media. |
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December 27, 2018 | #7 | |
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December 27, 2018 | #8 |
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The price is right if I truly don’t need a thermostat.
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December 26, 2018 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 307
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I’m thinking of purchasing some flex watt heat tape and doing a whole shelf of my seed starting rack with it.
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December 27, 2018 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Cats
Make Good Heat Mats Worth |
December 27, 2018 | #11 |
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December 28, 2018 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: France
Posts: 554
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Simple solutions are most often the best. From now on I’ll add more peat to the mix I usually use and make my own pucks with my tool. I’ll move them about when necessary. The only problem will be keeping the names of the varieties. Now I label my flats with the crosswords technique, letters and numbers. Whenever I have at least four or five identical seeds I’ll switch to homemade peat pucks.
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December 28, 2018 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: connecticut,usa
Posts: 1,152
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warming trays designed for food but I plug them into an electrical box I wired up with a lamp dimmer switch.A night light as a monitor plugged into one of the outlets and I set the dimmer so the bulb barely glows.
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December 28, 2018 | #14 |
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December 31, 2018 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: connecticut,usa
Posts: 1,152
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I find all the parts in goodwill or other thrift stores.
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