Low Tunnel Growing - Page 4

Worth1 · December 25, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by clkeiper

Honestly... go with real greenhouse products. they are designed for that and will hold up way better and be cheaper in the long run... they are more convenient to get your structure together and will not bend and flex or deteriorate like other products will. Everything is uv stable, galvanized so there isn't rust and designed so there aren't pieces sticking up that you are needing to cover so you aren't ruining the plastic. When you need to dismantle it it comes apart and you can put it back together easier than the "jigsaw puzzle" you rigged trying to do it cheaper. The greenhouse plastic lasts at least 4 years unless you ruin it with a knife or some other sharp object. What is your time worth? sometimes spending a little more costs less in the long run.

Carolyn I agree with this for the most part for most people.

On the other hand with the equipment I have at home I can whip out just about anything I want.
It would also be far superior to much of the stuff you can buy and in the long run cheaper.
It would also take very little time.
In all honesty I wouldn't bend a big hoop because I can take a stick of EMT and bend a 30 degree bend on each end and a 60 degree bend in the middle.
Or you could bend 45 degree bends on the end and a 90 in the middle.
Everyone prefers the 30 degree bend because on most benders when it is 30 degrees the handle is pointing straight up.
Also if you want to make a 4 inch offset you just double the distance between two marks and bend with the 30 degree bends.
I have almost 30 years experience bending pipe and conduit from 2 1/2 inch on down.
EMT is rated for outside use according to the NEC if used with weather tight fittings.

Honesty I dont know why anyone would want to bend a hoop in EMT conduit when you can make the same thing with 2 30's and a 60 very easy.
The bender costs 31.99 at home depot for a 1/2 inch EMT bender.
If anyone is interested I will be more than happy to help.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-1-2...-046/100341459

Worth

clkeiper · December 25, 2015

I agree if you have the tools and the skills, but the other greenhouse products are what saves time and money later. the actual fittings, plastic, nuts, bolts etc... not just the framing materials themselves. I know the plastic isn't cheap, but time is important, too. especially when the plastic deteriorates in less than a year if you use big box store plastic. you are spending a lot of time replacing it. AND recycle them off of craigslist,too. That is where most of my larger structures came from. We went and took them down and out them back up here.

Worth1 · December 25, 2015

The wrong plastic can be a nightmare to clean up when it starts to break down and it doesn't take long.

Worth

Cole_Robbie · December 25, 2015

3/4" EMT is $2.60 at my local store. 1/2" is $2.30. So the 3/4 seems like the obvious choice.

Worth1 · December 25, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie

3/4" EMT is $2.60 at my local store. 1/2" is $2.30. So the 3/4 seems like the obvious choice.

Yes It would be the obvious choice.
I just happen to have 100 feet of 1/2 on stock from a scrounge I did a while back.

Here is a question I have often asked myself.
Why dont we here in the south do this to get a jump start on our growing season.
To me it would be the thing to do and what I plan on doing this year.
We dont have a long tomato growing season with the heat.

Worth

Cole_Robbie · December 25, 2015

You could swap the plastic for shade cloth. too.

reddeheddefarm · December 27, 2015

harbor freight zip ties

taboule · December 27, 2015

I built my first tunnel this past fall, wanted to extend the season for my peppers and eggplant. Mostly, i wanted to get ready for an early start in the spring.
hoop-1.jpg
These are 10 ft conduits, base is about 5-6 ft wide. I drove 1/2 rebar in the ground and slipped the tubes on (you can see some of the rebar). Easy. I was able to crawl in there on all 4s to pick some veggies when i didn't feel like peeling back the cover.

How it looks now for the winter, the plastic is rolled up to one side and covered for the winter.
hoop-2.jpg
Purlin is a 1x3 strap, attached from underneath with U clamps and washer head screws, too short to protrude. (not a great pic but gives you the idea.) I coated the wood with a waterproofing, hence the beading.

Best part is when spring comes, i can unroll the plastic in a few minutes and plant away.

Worth1 · December 27, 2015

How high is it at the ridge beam, 3 feet?

Cole_Robbie · December 27, 2015

Nice pics. There are obviously many different ways to do this successfully.

taboule · December 27, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Worth1

How high is it at the ridge beam, 3 feet?

Yes, exactly 3ft.

Worth1 · December 27, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by taboule

Yes, exactly 3ft.

Thanks that is what the math told me when you said 6 feet wide.
So you bent them with a 3 foot radius how did you do it?
I would use plywood cut to that radius myself.
Worth

taboule · December 27, 2015

Worth, these are PVC, no bending involved. They flex perfectly, whatever width you give them at the base, down to ~4ft (I haven't broken one yet while experimenting).

Worth1 · December 27, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by taboule

Worth, these are PVC, no bending involved. They flex perfectly, whatever width you give them at the base, down to ~4ft (I haven't broken one yet while experimenting).

They look silver I thought they were EMT conduit.

Worth

goodwin · December 29, 2015

Here is a another solution I think I showed once here a few seasons ago. I use 16' welded cattle panels which bend easily into an arc, but then will spring back straight for storage.

You can make each hoophouse as long as you need by wiring each section to the next. The height is adjustable - mine are about 6 foot tall with a span of a little over 9 feet. The footer is 1x6 pressure-treated. The plastic is 6 mil IR, anti-condensate.
On cold nights I pull these blankets made of foil-faced bubblewrap over the outside.

For row crops I have a bunch of sections of concrete reinforcing wire which are bent into hoops about 30 inches tall. They are welded wire and stick snugly into the soil.
This also keeps our dogs and the horse from damaging things. You can see some over the melons on the right side of the photo below.

Anyway, it is time to start thinking about all this. Every day is bit longer now!

Lee

December 25, 2015	#47
clkeiper Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: ohio Posts: 4,350	I agree if you have the tools and the skills, but the other greenhouse products are what saves time and money later. the actual fittings, plastic, nuts, bolts etc... not just the framing materials themselves. I know the plastic isn't cheap, but time is important, too. especially when the plastic deteriorates in less than a year if you use big box store plastic. you are spending a lot of time replacing it. AND recycle them off of craigslist,too. That is where most of my larger structures came from. We went and took them down and out them back up here. __________________ carolyn k

December 25, 2015	#48
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	The wrong plastic can be a nightmare to clean up when it starts to break down and it doesn't take long. Worth

December 25, 2015	#49
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	3/4" EMT is $2.60 at my local store. 1/2" is $2.30. So the 3/4 seems like the obvious choice.

December 27, 2015	#52
reddeheddefarm Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: delaware ohio Posts: 81	harbor freight zip ties

December 27, 2015	#58
taboule Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: MA Posts: 903	Worth, these are PVC, no bending involved. They flex perfectly, whatever width you give them at the base, down to ~4ft (I haven't broken one yet while experimenting).

December 29, 2015	#60
goodwin Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Espanola, New Mexico Posts: 608	Here is a another solution I think I showed once here a few seasons ago. I use 16' welded cattle panels which bend easily into an arc, but then will spring back straight for storage. You can make each hoophouse as long as you need by wiring each section to the next. The height is adjustable - mine are about 6 foot tall with a span of a little over 9 feet. The footer is 1x6 pressure-treated. The plastic is 6 mil IR, anti-condensate. On cold nights I pull these blankets made of foil-faced bubblewrap over the outside. For row crops I have a bunch of sections of concrete reinforcing wire which are bent into hoops about 30 inches tall. They are welded wire and stick snugly into the soil. This also keeps our dogs and the horse from damaging things. You can see some over the melons on the right side of the photo below. Anyway, it is time to start thinking about all this. Every day is bit longer now! Lee