Basic Electricity For Homeowners - Page 4

Worth1 · January 22, 2017

Wire size and why not to cheap out.
How to tell if your extension cord is under sized for the task at hand.

But first s story to explain what I mean.
Some years ago we had two pipe threaders set up threading pipe.
When one of the guys flipped his on both threaders slowed way down.
One wasn't even going as fast as it should be.
Plus the cords were hot.
I was doing the electrical on the same job but working around these guys.
I looked and they had 200 feet of 16 gauge extension cord strung out to run these threaders.
Why our company even had these cheap cords I have no idea.
They were going to burn up the threaders and they cost about $6,000 each.
I stopped the job and went and made up some 12 maybe even 10 gauge gauge cords and brought them back to use.
Now the machines ran like they were supposed to.
What was wrong?
The cord was too small for its length.
With this happening several things can happen.
The motor burn up.
The cord burn up.
The wall outlet can get hot.
The breaker trip.
What you have done is over load the circuit.
Why?
All conductors has resistance.
The bigger the conductor the less resistance.
What happens.
The amps go up and the voltage drops.
The conductor itself is a load and has to be calculated in the circuit.
How do you do this.
By the size and the length.
The longer it is the more resistance it has.
This is measured in Ohms.
Ohm's law

The resistor's current I in amps (A) is equal to the resistor's voltage V in volts (V)
divided by the resistance R in ohms (Ω):

The resistor's power consumption P in watts (W) is equal to the resistor's current I in amps (A)
times the resistor's voltage V in volts (V):
P = I × V

The resistor's power consumption P in watts (W) is equal to the square value of the resistor's current I in amps (A)
times the resistor's resistance R in ohms (Ω):
P = I 2 × R

The resistor's power consumption P in watts (W) is equal to the square value of the resistor's voltage V in volts (V)
divided by the resistor's resistance R in ohms (Ω):
P = V 2 / R

There are calculators on line that will do the work for you.

For example my blender at 100 feet of wire would need a 14 gauge wire to run 5 amps at a 5% voltage drop which would be at 114 VAC but starting at 120 VAC.

Here is a helpful link for this.
It is correct.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=..._FQZ58vS0pfa3w
So far in my searches I have found on line calculators that were broke or way off.
Have no idea what the deal was.

Worth

Worth1 · January 22, 2017

Now after some more research and the above link this is for permanent wiring.so it isnt ever going to drop wires size down below 14 gauge.

Here is a link Home Depot has for extension cords.
http://www.homedepot.com/c/factors_t...cords_HT_BG_EL

now that we have learned in many ways to find you what an apylance draws we can use the above information to see just how big of a cord we need.
Here is and example.

I have a 50 foot 16 gauge extension cord going to my shed.
all it ever does is turn on two 100 watt light bulbs.
this add up to 1.66 amps the cord is rated for 13 amps.
More that adequate for the use at hand.
In other w0rds no need to drag out the big guns.

Worth1 · January 22, 2017

CFL Blinking Syndrome.

Pulled this off instructibles some time ago the bulb was driving me nuts as to why it was happening.
There ares ways to fix this but in my opinion not worth the trouble.
You have to solder a resistor across the conductors on the bulb.
Not gonna happen.

Quote.
"When a compact fluorescent light bulb is being controlled by an illuminated wall switch, sometimes the CFL bulb will flash when the switch is off. This flashing is very noticeable when it's dark (a bedroom at night for example).

If you have a CFL bulb installed in an illuminated wall switch (these are switches that are lit when in the off position), this instructable can help stop the flashing.

First, why does the CFL bulb flash? Many times this is due to the circuit inside the CFL charging up, even when the bulb is off. This happens many times when the CFL bulb is being controlled by an illuminated wall switch, because the wall switch uses the CFL bulb itself as neutral. When the wall switch is on, the CFL bulb gets full line voltage. When the wall switch is off, the CFL bulb is the neutral for the light of the wall switch, causing a tiny current to flow through the CFL bulb.

This tiny current charges up the capacitor in the CFL bulb, until it releases it's energy. This cycle can repeat once every few seconds."

Gerardo · January 22, 2017

keep it coming W

Worth1 · January 22, 2017

I have to go to my weekend electrical project now and possibly install a reduced pressure assembly for a guy and his lawn sprinkler system.
Lets all hope I dont get electrocuted or even drown.

Worth

Worth1 · January 22, 2017

Just got back installed the Reduced Pressure Assembly and ran underground wire in the conduit we ran last weekend.
This is for his sewer pump and high water alarm light.
No fires electrocution or drowning.
I can't believe they have wires like this but that is the way it is.
I'm connecting them to a GFCI next Sunday.
Nice place.
Worth
IMG_20170122_22816.jpg

IMG_20170122_32235.jpg

Worth1 · January 23, 2017

A non electrical side note.
The Reduced Pressure Assembly is there so if the pressure on the street/supply side is lower than the house side it dumps water out the bottom.
This way contaminants don't get into the water supply if a main breaks therefor siphoning lord knows what back into the drinking water.
His other one froze and busted.
This was a costly 300 some odd dollar mistake.
I didn't do all of the pipe fitting it was already there.

Worth

Worth1 · January 23, 2017

Where do you guy's and gal's that are interested want to go next?
Wiring circuits diagrams?
Questions?
Worth

Cole_Robbie · January 23, 2017

I have a little touch meter that glows when a wire or outlet is hot. When I replaced my water heater, I flipped off the breaker, but the meter said the wire was still hot. I know it's the right breaker; it's a fairly new mobile home and everything is marked well. I flipped off the main, and then the meter didn't glow any more. Why was it glowing when the breaker was off?

Worth1 · January 23, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie

I have a little touch meter that glows when a wire or outlet is hot. When I replaced my water heater, I flipped off the breaker, but the meter said the wire was still hot. I know it's the right breaker; it's a fairly new mobile home and everything is marked well. I flipped off the main, and then the meter didn't glow any more. Why was it glowing when the breaker was off?

More than likely it was labeled wrong or one leg was still hot.
Was it a 240 breaker or two one 120 breaker sstacked.
I have seen this.
A 240 breaker takes up two spaces.
All the reason to have a volt meter.
It could even possibley been induced voltage.
I dont trust those light sticks.
Worth

dmforcier · January 23, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Worth1

Where do you guy's and gal's that are interested want to go next?
Wiring circuits diagrams?
Questions?

Why not concentrate on attaching a fixture to a circuit. Screws, screw color, bayonets, stripping and forming a hook, pigtails, splices & wire nuts, dressing the wire in the box.

Use akgardengirl's question about changing a switch. Which replacement to select, how to pull the switch out of the box, how to check for hot, disconnect and reconnect.

For an extra topic, what's that red wire doing in the box? Why does this white wire have black marker on the last couple inches? Outlets in a daisy chain.

Lots and lots to deal with.

Cole_Robbie · January 23, 2017

When I had a pole put in for my greenhouse, the electric company said I had to have the service entrance built, the thing that attaches to the pole outside. Then they gave me their own spec sheet about the way it had to be constructed, and told me to hire a local electrician.

From what I understand, every utility company has their own precise specs about the service entrance. It reminds me a lot of the practice of law and the trade protectionism involved. Very few things are hand-built built one at a time in our modern world. The best reason to keep it that way is to make a good job for someone. The service entrance I paid $1,500 for to a local guy to build would have been $300 if it was made in China, or at least assembled there. I'm sure the parts my local guy used were Chinese. Is there any practical reason that things are done the way they are?

Worth1 · January 23, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie

When I had a pole put in for my greenhouse, the electric company said I had to have the service entrance built, the thing that attaches to the pole outside. Then they gave me their own spec sheet about the way it had to be constructed, and told me to hire a local electrician.

From what I understand, every utility company has their own precise specs about the service entrance. It reminds me a lot of the practice of law and the trade protectionism involved. Very few things are hand-built built one at a time in our modern world. The best reason to keep it that way is to make a good job for someone. The service entrance I paid $1,500 for to a local guy to build would have been $300 if it was made in China, or at least assembled there. I'm sure the parts my local guy used were Chinese. Is there any practical reason that things are done the way they are?

Yes and no.
Sometimes it depends on what latest version of the NEC They adopt and the authority having jurisdiction.
Nothing is law until it is adopted.
Worth

kurt · January 23, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Worth1

Where do you guy's and gal's that are interested want to go next?
Wiring circuits diagrams?
Questions?
Worth

I am sure all new installations are up to snuff in your locales but here is a insight regarding water/electricity and older systems.All pool lighting in Fl has to be 12volt(via a transformer)Scary stuff. Also Mike Holt .com has really good info if you want.

http://cullenelectriccincinnati.com/...g-pool-wiring/

AlittleSalt · January 23, 2017

We have a mobile home too. Until I rewired the house, finding the right breaker wasn't that easy. Nothing was marked at the breaker box. The wiring had to be replaced, so I marked which breaker goes to where it goes. All of the wiring is 110.

I have never ran 220 wiring. We got a new 220 clothes dryer given to us. However, our house has propane ran to the kitchen stove and clothes dryer - no 220. Being that we have always used a clothesline, I'm not sure if we want to put the new dryer in, but if we choose to - is running 220 like running 110? It's also possible to trade the new 220 dryer in on a propane one.

January 22, 2017	#1
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Wire and size. Wire size and why not to cheap out. How to tell if your extension cord is under sized for the task at hand. But first s story to explain what I mean. Some years ago we had two pipe threaders set up threading pipe. When one of the guys flipped his on both threaders slowed way down. One wasn't even going as fast as it should be. Plus the cords were hot. I was doing the electrical on the same job but working around these guys. I looked and they had 200 feet of 16 gauge extension cord strung out to run these threaders. Why our company even had these cheap cords I have no idea. They were going to burn up the threaders and they cost about $6,000 each. I stopped the job and went and made up some 12 maybe even 10 gauge gauge cords and brought them back to use. Now the machines ran like they were supposed to. What was wrong? The cord was too small for its length. With this happening several things can happen. The motor burn up. The cord burn up. The wall outlet can get hot. The breaker trip. What you have done is over load the circuit. Why? All conductors has resistance. The bigger the conductor the less resistance. What happens. The amps go up and the voltage drops. The conductor itself is a load and has to be calculated in the circuit. How do you do this. By the size and the length. The longer it is the more resistance it has. This is measured in Ohms. Ohm's law The resistor's current I in amps (A) is equal to the resistor's voltage V in volts (V) divided by the resistance R in ohms (Ω): The resistor's power consumption P in watts (W) is equal to the resistor's current I in amps (A) times the resistor's voltage V in volts (V): P = I × V The resistor's power consumption P in watts (W) is equal to the square value of the resistor's current I in amps (A) times the resistor's resistance R in ohms (Ω): P = I 2 × R The resistor's power consumption P in watts (W) is equal to the square value of the resistor's voltage V in volts (V) divided by the resistor's resistance R in ohms (Ω): P = V 2 / R There are calculators on line that will do the work for you. For example my blender at 100 feet of wire would need a 14 gauge wire to run 5 amps at a 5% voltage drop which would be at 114 VAC but starting at 120 VAC. Here is a helpful link for this. It is correct. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=..._FQZ58vS0pfa3w So far in my searches I have found on line calculators that were broke or way off. Have no idea what the deal was. Worth

January 22, 2017	#3
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	CFL Blinking Syndrome. CFL Blinking Syndrome. Pulled this off instructibles some time ago the bulb was driving me nuts as to why it was happening. There ares ways to fix this but in my opinion not worth the trouble. You have to solder a resistor across the conductors on the bulb. Not gonna happen. Quote. "When a compact fluorescent light bulb is being controlled by an illuminated wall switch, sometimes the CFL bulb will flash when the switch is off. This flashing is very noticeable when it's dark (a bedroom at night for example). If you have a CFL bulb installed in an illuminated wall switch (these are switches that are lit when in the off position), this instructable can help stop the flashing. First, why does the CFL bulb flash? Many times this is due to the circuit inside the CFL charging up, even when the bulb is off. This happens many times when the CFL bulb is being controlled by an illuminated wall switch, because the wall switch uses the CFL bulb itself as neutral. When the wall switch is on, the CFL bulb gets full line voltage. When the wall switch is off, the CFL bulb is the neutral for the light of the wall switch, causing a tiny current to flow through the CFL bulb. This tiny current charges up the capacitor in the CFL bulb, until it releases it's energy. This cycle can repeat once every few seconds."

January 22, 2017	#6
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Just got back installed the Reduced Pressure Assembly and ran underground wire in the conduit we ran last weekend. This is for his sewer pump and high water alarm light. No fires electrocution or drowning. I can't believe they have wires like this but that is the way it is. I'm connecting them to a GFCI next Sunday. Nice place. Worth IMG_20170122_22816.jpg IMG_20170122_32235.jpg Last edited by Worth1; January 23, 2017 at 06:12 AM. Reason: Reduced

January 22, 2017	#4
Gerardo Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: San Diego-Tijuana Posts: 2,598	keep it coming W

January 23, 2017	#7
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	A non electrical side note. The Reduced Pressure Assembly is there so if the pressure on the street/supply side is lower than the house side it dumps water out the bottom. This way contaminants don't get into the water supply if a main breaks therefor siphoning lord knows what back into the drinking water. His other one froze and busted. This was a costly 300 some odd dollar mistake. I didn't do all of the pipe fitting it was already there. Worth

January 23, 2017	#9
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	I have a little touch meter that glows when a wire or outlet is hot. When I replaced my water heater, I flipped off the breaker, but the meter said the wire was still hot. I know it's the right breaker; it's a fairly new mobile home and everything is marked well. I flipped off the main, and then the meter didn't glow any more. Why was it glowing when the breaker was off?

January 23, 2017	#15
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	We have a mobile home too. Until I rewired the house, finding the right breaker wasn't that easy. Nothing was marked at the breaker box. The wiring had to be replaced, so I marked which breaker goes to where it goes. All of the wiring is 110. I have never ran 220 wiring. We got a new 220 clothes dryer given to us. However, our house has propane ran to the kitchen stove and clothes dryer - no 220. Being that we have always used a clothesline, I'm not sure if we want to put the new dryer in, but if we choose to - is running 220 like running 110? It's also possible to trade the new 220 dryer in on a propane one.