March 22, 2013 | #61 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Alpine, Calif. in winter. Sandpoint Lake, Ont. Canada summers
Posts: 850
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Worth.....my neighbor lady solved the problem so she doesn't need ear tags on her kids.
She named all the girls "Josephine" and the boys "Joseph" and just calls "Joe" when she needs them. If she needs any of them specifically, she calls them by their last names. |
March 22, 2013 | #62 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Charleston,South Carolina, USA
Posts: 1,803
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Gaffers tape is expensive because the tape glue will not come off like duck tape and is cloth, Google it
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaffer_tape I see that it sell ever where now, I do not use it ever day only duck tape Last edited by FILMNET; March 22, 2013 at 09:44 AM. |
March 22, 2013 | #63 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Zone 7B, MD
Posts: 56
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March 22, 2013 | #64 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Charleston,South Carolina, USA
Posts: 1,803
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I also sometimes staple this tape the wood stick in the plants, rain will not writing on this tape.
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March 22, 2013 | #65 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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I take colored duct tape and tape it to the panels that I use for supports. I write the name the tomatoes on the tape with a sharpie.
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March 23, 2013 | #66 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Akron,N.Y zone 6
Posts: 44
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I do what Worth does but just a little cheaper by letting trains run over pennies and using the metal stamps to punch the names onto the flattened pennies.Then drill a small hole in it and use a short piece of copper wire as a twist tie.
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March 23, 2013 | #67 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Midway B.C. Canada
Posts: 311
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We have used [White Tyvek® Tags] from Uline and a UV resistant pen for marking builbil beds in the garlic patch. In bulk they work out to a little over 4 cents a tag. We staple the tag to the top of wooden stakes. These tags have overwintered in the garlic patch and then lasted until August with no problems.
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Henry |
March 23, 2013 | #68 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: asdf
Posts: 1,202
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Here is what I did this week when I ran out. Old water jug/milk jug and a sharpie
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364051657.619372.jpg |
March 23, 2013 | #69 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northern Minnesota - zone 3
Posts: 3,231
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I cut up my milk jugs as well for seeding flat markers. I cut into triangle shapes, so I can write horizontally for most. I like that they don't stick up very far above the edges of the flat, so less chance of knocking them out for a clutz like me. And they aren't jostled by a dome cover, as long as I need to use one.
Couldn't find any better picture quickly - for the curious, the number is how many seeds were sown of that variety. Quick check on germination without going to a list.
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Dee ************** |
March 23, 2013 | #70 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Brantford, ON, Canada
Posts: 1,341
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I screwed around with almost everything mentioned on this thread over the years. Finally I ordered a case of 1000, 5/8 by 5 inches, yellow and one time white.
When you want a marker you want it now. I mark using a black sharpie and it stays for the year. Sometime I reuse the markers by wiping the marking with acetone, available from a pharmacy. The marker is placed near the stake marking the plant. If required higher up, I punch a hole in the marker and hang using a wire pipe cleaner for convenience. No more screwing around looking for a marker when required. A thousand lasts me around three years and possibly more with care. Here is where I ordered them http://www.durgan.org/URL/?ZZBIJ Work Smart. |
March 23, 2013 | #71 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Quote:
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
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March 23, 2013 | #72 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Brantford, ON, Canada
Posts: 1,341
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April 9, 2013 | #73 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 3
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Quick Change Post Labeling+++
Quote:
Noticed no one actually answered your question. I suppose you found some solution but if so was never documented. And since others may be interested, here's my answer plus some additional info on labeling. 1. Your request did not specify what size labels you were using, but this method will work for 1/8 to about1.25" wide labels. Here's how: Using galvanized wire of about 1/16" diameter (maybe 14 wire gauge or slightly smaller), wrap three (minimum) or 4 turns around the top of the T-steel posts or wooden posts and tie off. If using steel posts, the wire should be fairly taut, but a little less for wood. The wraps should be spaced about 3/8" apart. Then "weave" your label into the wire wraps. If you made the wraps a little too tight, use a thin bladed screwdriver to pry them apart just enough to slide the label into place but not so loose that wind vibrations will loosen them. If your wraps are a little too loose, use a pair of pliers and twist the individual wraps slightly to tighten them. After doing a couple you should be able to guage the tightness of the wraps better. If you use a sledge hammer or "pipe" type post driver for driving the posts/stakes, you should be able to leave these wraps in place for the following years use and insert/remove labels as needed. You could use black zip ties in a similar fashion (partial suggestion earlier) but by using them as weaving wraps, would allow use in succeeding years and/or for different plants. 2. There has been several discussions about labeling material scattered thoughout the forums. House siding material has been mentioned and I would like to point out some of it's finer features. ------ It is the most practical and cheapest labeling material I have found. Scraps can often be easily procured from any house siding project or you can buy an 8-10 foot section which will provide enough material for a whole bunch of labels. Since it comes in a variety of colors, you may be able to find a color that blends into your surroundings rather than the glaring white stuff normally used. And you can cut them to any size you want; tiny and inconspicuous or big enough to read from a long ways off. You can also cut them to any shape you want; strips to attach using wire as noted above, flat strips for inserting into the ground or pots, round pieces with small holes drilled in them for attaching with screws or wire loops. A heavy duty pair of scissors works best for cutting the siding or even a pair of "tin snips". And if you are really into production, use an electric saw with a very fine toothed blade. . 3. Black Sharpie markers for writing on them seem to last the longest whereas the colored sharpies tend to fade in the sunlight. Ordinary magic markers will probably fade in bright sunlight. And for more permanancy, try putting all your labels on the north or east side of the posts to minimize fading 4. I have used pieces of milk carton but they won't last long in the sunlight, are flimsy for large labels and takes bit more work if you need a lot of them. 5. For permanent markers for perennials, the earlier suggestions for using metal tags will be better than these plastic labels, though! 6. I still use a map to backup my on-site labeling and keep it on my computer so that I can refer to it in the following years as needed. Especially for rotation planting needs. Cheers Joe |
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April 10, 2013 | #74 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Charleston,South Carolina, USA
Posts: 1,803
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gaffers tape, white tape if you can find it, for the metal stick permanent pen. This ink and tape like never come off easy. For wood stick, use at staple with this tape, the the wood.
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April 10, 2013 | #75 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: asdf
Posts: 1,202
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