Raybo's Removable, Self-supporting, Collapsible, Tall Cage for the EarthTainer (pics)

[Rockporter]

Originally Posted by GoGayleGo

Does anyone know if the EB cage clips will work on a non-EB box? Specifically, an 18-gallon tote?

Or is the zip-tie method just as effective?

Hi, I use the zip tie method but have not tried that on 18 gallon totes. If zip ties are the way you will be going I found a reasonable priced place online to purchase the kind you can release and reuse. I am going this route next time.
http://cabletiesunlimited.com/cable-...able-ties.html

[GoGayleGo]

Originally Posted by Rockporter

Hi, I use the zip tie method but have not tried that on 18 gallon totes. If zip ties are the way you will be going I found a reasonable priced place online to purchase the kind you can release and reuse. I am going this route next time.
http://cabletiesunlimited.com/cable-...able-ties.html

Connie

Bummer! I ordered 12" UV-resistant zip ties earlier today. I will definitely look into these for next year - thanks for the link!

Update: I canceled my Amazon order for non-releasable zip ties, and after speaking with the super-helpful person at Cable Ties Unlimited, will be ordering the RT11-50-0C-.30 as it is evidently thicker and easier to release than the 0.19 width.

[Rockporter]

I have designed a whole new way to hold the cages on the earthboxes, the old way using multiple zip ties won't be used on my boxes anymore.

Items needed to complete the job.

Drill 1/8"
scrap piece of soft wood
Small Crescent Wrench
Yard Stick
12" ruler
Permanent marker-any color as long as you can see the marks you make on the earthbox
Bolts- Phillips Oval Mach SC 8/32 x 3/8"( otherwise kown as a countersink bolt).
Nut to fit-using 10 of each per earthbox
Washers-#8 using 20 per earthbox
Cable Clamps- 1/4" using 10 per earthbox-I did use some 3/8" cable clamps because there were not enough of the 1/4" cable clamps available in stock.

The photos below show the box using 3/8" cable clamps but I do like the 1/4" cable clamps better.
Zip Ties-8" using 10 per earthbox

The bolt has to sit flush into the base or you won't be able to put the zip ties in.

This design will only work for you if you choose to drill holes into the sides of your earthboxes. I used a washer on the outside base and inside the box to provide support and it is very strong. I don't think there will be any issues with this design but I cannot promise anything either.

This is a much stronger, tighter and nicer looking way to keep the cage on the boxes and if you use releasable zip ties you will not be cutting them off at the end of the season. You would just release and redo your boxes.

Step 1
Using a yard stick held up to the long side of the box make three marks on the rim of the earthbox- I used 4", 14" and 24". These marks allowed a good spacing between all three of the bases I added to the box on each long side.

Follow this same design on the short sides, only use two marks- I used 4" and 8" marks to get a good spacing.

Step 2
using a ruler placed underneath the lip of the box measure about 1.5" down and make a mark. Do this below each mark you made on the lip of the box.

Step 3
Using the drill, drill a hole into the hole of the base piece, drill through the padding and stickiness, do it quick because the sticky can come off and make a mess of your drill bit. This hole will be used to attach the base to the outside of the earthbox using the bolt/nut/washer. I placed the bases top side up on a board to do the drilling and made quick bursts of power to get it done. Cleaned the bit a couple times but you will get the hang of it.


Step 4
After you put the holes in all 10 of your bases using the drill, take one of your bolts and put it through the hole on the top side and hold there. Peel off the paper from the double sided tape attached to the base and place a washer over the bolt and press onto the sticky side. Remove the bolt and repeat with all 10 bases.

Step 5
Now take these parts and place them on the outside of your box at the marks you made, the tape will hold it on. Use your drill to drill a hole right through the middle of the base and the earthbox. I used a piece of wood on the other side of the earthbox to support the plastic while the drill did it's work. It worked well, there was no splitting of the plastic, only nice holes drilled.

Step 6
Now place your bolt from the outside in, add a washer on the inside and then place the nut on the bolt and tighten with a crescent wrench. If you are using the right size bolts you will have a nut that sits flush with the bolt end leaving a smooth surface. I was concerned about a longer bolt scratching me when I was reworking a box, and with the right length of bolt there is no chance of that occurring.

Step 7
Take one of your cable clamps and place it onto your cage, place it with the bent section pointed toward the cage, not away from it. You will understand when you put it on and basically it will look upside down.

Step 8
Take a zip tie and thread it through the bottom and top sections of your base and then thread through your cable clamp holes. Tighten the zip tie just a small bit so you can come back and adjust all of the zip ties and set the cage just how you want it.

This was really easy to do and I don't see any problems in the future with the design. My husband likes it alot, it looks nice and is very stable.


Here are the photos;

[GoGayleGo]

How do folks feel about drilling holes in the sides? Does anyone know how that holds up over time? My DH suggested it, but I resisted, thinking it would destabilize the boxes in the long run.

I bought long zip ties, intending to use them. Just got my boxes planted this past weekend, now looking to assemble/attach cages. So still have some time to figure out exactly what approach to take.

[SIP Gro-Tubs]

Originally Posted by rnewste

Raybo

p.s. Now to find some miniature "C" clamps at Lowes to attach the four "L" bent one inch leg sections to my EarthBox.

Go to a Elecctrical contractors buisness and ask to see their different types of I-beam clamps. Bet you will find what you are looking for, and for Cash money most will sell to the general public at the contractors prices.

Terry

[bdank]

This is a really cool design, Rockporter. Did you put this on the earthbox forum? I'm sure they'd appreciate it there.

[Rockporter]

Originally Posted by bdank

This is a really cool design, Rockporter. Did you put this on the earthbox forum? I'm sure they'd appreciate it there.

Thanks bdank, the cages are holding well and I like this design for sure, I wish I had thought about it sooner.

I am not on the EB forum anymore but you are welcome to post it there if you would like.

[Rockporter]

Originally Posted by Rockporter

I have designed a whole new way to hold the cages on the earthboxes, the old way using multiple zip ties won't be used on my boxes anymore.

Items needed to complete the job.

Drill 1/8"
scrap piece of soft wood
Small Crescent Wrench
Yard Stick
12" ruler
Permanent marker-any color as long as you can see the marks you make on the earthbox
Bolts- Phillips Oval Mach SC 8/32 x 3/8"( otherwise kown as a countersink bolt).
Nut to fit-using 10 of each per earthbox
Washers-#8 using 20 per earthbox
Cable Clamps- 1/4" using 10 per earthbox-I did use some 3/8" cable clamps because there were not enough of the 1/4" cable clamps available in stock.

The photos below show the box using 3/8" cable clamps but I do like the 1/4" cable clamps better.
Zip Ties-8" using 10 per earthbox

The bolt has to sit flush into the base or you won't be able to put the zip ties in.

This design will only work for you if you choose to drill holes into the sides of your earthboxes. I used a washer on the outside base and inside the box to provide support and it is very strong. I don't think there will be any issues with this design but I cannot promise anything either.

This is a much stronger, tighter and nicer looking way to keep the cage on the boxes and if you use releasable zip ties you will not be cutting them off at the end of the season. You would just release and redo your boxes.

Step 1
Using a yard stick held up to the long side of the box make three marks on the rim of the earthbox- I used 4", 14" and 24". These marks allowed a good spacing between all three of the bases I added to the box on each long side.

Follow this same design on the short sides, only use two marks- I used 4" and 8" marks to get a good spacing.

Step 2
using a ruler placed underneath the lip of the box measure about 1.5" down and make a mark. Do this below each mark you made on the lip of the box.

Step 3
Using the drill, drill a hole into the hole of the base piece, drill through the padding and stickiness, do it quick because the sticky can come off and make a mess of your drill bit. This hole will be used to attach the base to the outside of the earthbox using the bolt/nut/washer. I placed the bases top side up on a board to do the drilling and made quick bursts of power to get it done. Cleaned the bit a couple times but you will get the hang of it.


Step 4
After you put the holes in all 10 of your bases using the drill, take one of your bolts and put it through the hole on the top side and hold there. Peel off the paper from the double sided tape attached to the base and place a washer over the bolt and press onto the sticky side. Remove the bolt and repeat with all 10 bases.

Step 5
Now take these parts and place them on the outside of your box at the marks you made, the tape will hold it on. Use your drill to drill a hole right through the middle of the base and the earthbox. I used a piece of wood on the other side of the earthbox to support the plastic while the drill did it's work. It worked well, there was no splitting of the plastic, only nice holes drilled.

Step 6
Now place your bolt from the outside in, add a washer on the inside and then place the nut on the bolt and tighten with a crescent wrench. If you are using the right size bolts you will have a nut that sits flush with the bolt end leaving a smooth surface. I was concerned about a longer bolt scratching me when I was reworking a box, and with the right length of bolt there is no chance of that occurring.

Step 7
Take one of your cable clamps and place it onto your cage, place it with the bent section pointed toward the cage, not away from it. You will understand when you put it on and basically it will look upside down.

Step 8
Take a zip tie and thread it through the bottom and top sections of your base and then thread through your cable clamp holes. Tighten the zip tie just a small bit so you can come back and adjust all of the zip ties and set the cage just how you want it.

This was really easy to do and I don't see any problems in the future with the design. My husband likes it alot, it looks nice and is very stable.


Here are the photos;

Oops, this is missing a key piece on the list of needed items. Cable tie bases can be purchased at Lowe's and are right next to the cable ties. They come in black and white, the black would be better suited for outdoors.

[Rockporter]

Below is my original post, couldn't figure out how to quote it so I copied and pasted. See the update below for parts needed to build the system.

I have designed a whole new way to hold the cages on the earthboxes, the old way using multiple zip ties won't be used on my boxes anymore.

Items needed to complete the job.

Drill 1/8"
scrap piece of soft wood
Small Crescent Wrench
Yard Stick
12" ruler
Permanent marker-any color as long as you can see the marks you make on the earthbox
Bolts- Phillips Oval Mach SC 8/32 x 3/8"( otherwise kown as a countersink bolt).
Nut to fit-using 10 of each per earthbox
Washers-#8 using 20 per earthbox
4 way cable mount with screw hole-1" 10 per earthbox-added here because I forgot to add to the original list.
Cable clamps-1/4" using 10 per earthbox-I did use some 3/8" cable clamps because there were not enough of the 1/4" cable clamps available in stock.

The photos below show the box using 3/8" cable clamps but I do like the 1/4" cable clamps better.
Zip Ties-8" using 10 per earthbox

The bolt has to sit flush into the base or you won't be able to put the zip ties in.

This design will only work for you if you choose to drill holes into the sides of your earthboxes. I used a washer on the outside base and inside the box to provide support and it is very strong. I don't think there will be any issues with this design but I cannot promise anything either.

This is a much stronger, tighter and nicer looking way to keep the cage on the boxes and if you use releasable zip ties you will not be cutting them off at the end of the season. You would just release and redo your boxes.

Step 1
Using a yard stick held up to the long side of the box make three marks on the rim of the earthbox- I used 4", 14" and 24". These marks allowed a good spacing between all three of the bases I added to the box on each long side.

Follow this same design on the short sides, only use two marks- I used 4" and 8" marks to get a good spacing.

Step 2
using a ruler placed underneath the lip of the box measure about 1.5" down and make a mark. Do this below each mark you made on the lip of the box.

Step 3
Using the drill, drill a hole into the hole of the base piece, drill through the padding and stickiness, do it quick because the sticky can come off and make a mess of your drill bit. This hole will be used to attach the base to the outside of the earthbox using the bolt/nut/washer. I placed the bases top side up on a board to do the drilling and made quick bursts of power to get it done. Cleaned the bit a couple times but you will get the hang of it.


Step 4
After you put the holes in all 10 of your bases using the drill, take one of your bolts and put it through the hole on the top side and hold there. Peel off the paper from the double sided tape attached to the base and place a washer over the bolt and press onto the sticky side. Remove the bolt and repeat with all 10 bases.

Step 5
Now take these parts and place them on the outside of your box at the marks you made, the tape will hold it on. Use your drill to drill a hole right through the middle of the base and the earthbox. I used a piece of wood on the other side of the earthbox to support the plastic while the drill did it's work. It worked well, there was no splitting of the plastic, only nice holes drilled.

Step 6
Now place your bolt from the outside in, add a washer on the inside and then place the nut on the bolt and tighten with a crescent wrench. If you are using the right size bolts you will have a nut that sits flush with the bolt end leaving a smooth surface. I was concerned about a longer bolt scratching me when I was reworking a box, and with the right length of bolt there is no chance of that occurring.

Step 7
Take one of your cable clamps and place it onto your cage, place it with the bent section pointed toward the cage, not away from it. You will understand when you put it on and basically it will look upside down.

Step 8
Take a zip tie and thread it through the bottom and top sections of your base and then thread through your cable clamp holes. Tighten the zip tie just a small bit so you can come back and adjust all of the zip ties and set the cage just how you want it.

This was really easy to do and I don't see any problems in the future with the design. My husband likes it alot, it looks nice and is very stable.


Here are the photos;
Attached Thumbnails

Originally Posted by Rockporter

Oops, this is missing a key piece on the list of needed items. Cable tie bases can be purchased at Lowe's and are right next to the cable ties. They come in black and white, the black would be better suited for outdoors.

I have spoken to Cable Ties Unlimited and have confirmed the parts that can be purchased from them for a reasonable price are,

1. Cable ties-releasable
item #RT8-50-0C-.19=7.87" cable ties=100 pcs
NOTE: You must use the .19 sized zip ties-the .30 will not fit through the cable mounts per Cable Ties Unlimited.

2. 4-Way Adhesive Cable Mount w/Screw Hole
item # CM100-0C=the square black mounts you drill a hole through=100 pcs

3. Heavy Duty cable clamp
item# 1/4" Black Heavy Duty Cable Clamp=this clamp goes around the cage and the cable tie is strung through the holes in the clamp=100 pcs.

To make one cage setup on an Earth box requires 10 pieces of each item so you have what is needed for 10 Earth boxes or other containers using 10 points of connection. Smaller containers would need less depending on the size of container.

The other parts needed for the cage setup should be purchased where you can find them. I will keep searching for a bulk purchase place for them and post if I find it.

[Rockporter]

Oh, I must say that I have had zero problems with this design on my Earthboxes and will take the cages off soon, so I wanted to purchase the releasable zip ties to aid in ease of use, no cutting off zip ties and less expense overall.

[Winemaker]

Harbor Freight has 1 inch miniature C-Clamps for $1.99.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog.../?p=3&q=clamps

[brian1269]

Originally Posted by Rockporter

Below is my original post, couldn't figure out how to quote it so I copied and pasted. See the update below for parts needed to build the system.

I have designed a whole new way to hold the cages on the earthboxes, the old way using multiple zip ties won't be used on my boxes anymore.

Items needed to complete the job.

Drill 1/8"
scrap piece of soft wood
Small Crescent Wrench
Yard Stick
12" ruler
Permanent marker-any color as long as you can see the marks you make on the earthbox
Bolts- Phillips Oval Mach SC 8/32 x 3/8"( otherwise kown as a countersink bolt).
Nut to fit-using 10 of each per earthbox
Washers-#8 using 20 per earthbox
4 way cable mount with screw hole-1" 10 per earthbox-added here because I forgot to add to the original list.
Cable clamps-1/4" using 10 per earthbox-I did use some 3/8" cable clamps because there were not enough of the 1/4" cable clamps available in stock.

The photos below show the box using 3/8" cable clamps but I do like the 1/4" cable clamps better.
Zip Ties-8" using 10 per earthbox

The bolt has to sit flush into the base or you won't be able to put the zip ties in.

This design will only work for you if you choose to drill holes into the sides of your earthboxes. I used a washer on the outside base and inside the box to provide support and it is very strong. I don't think there will be any issues with this design but I cannot promise anything either.

This is a much stronger, tighter and nicer looking way to keep the cage on the boxes and if you use releasable zip ties you will not be cutting them off at the end of the season. You would just release and redo your boxes.

Step 1
Using a yard stick held up to the long side of the box make three marks on the rim of the earthbox- I used 4", 14" and 24". These marks allowed a good spacing between all three of the bases I added to the box on each long side.

Follow this same design on the short sides, only use two marks- I used 4" and 8" marks to get a good spacing.

Step 2
using a ruler placed underneath the lip of the box measure about 1.5" down and make a mark. Do this below each mark you made on the lip of the box.

Step 3
Using the drill, drill a hole into the hole of the base piece, drill through the padding and stickiness, do it quick because the sticky can come off and make a mess of your drill bit. This hole will be used to attach the base to the outside of the earthbox using the bolt/nut/washer. I placed the bases top side up on a board to do the drilling and made quick bursts of power to get it done. Cleaned the bit a couple times but you will get the hang of it.


Step 4
After you put the holes in all 10 of your bases using the drill, take one of your bolts and put it through the hole on the top side and hold there. Peel off the paper from the double sided tape attached to the base and place a washer over the bolt and press onto the sticky side. Remove the bolt and repeat with all 10 bases.

Step 5
Now take these parts and place them on the outside of your box at the marks you made, the tape will hold it on. Use your drill to drill a hole right through the middle of the base and the earthbox. I used a piece of wood on the other side of the earthbox to support the plastic while the drill did it's work. It worked well, there was no splitting of the plastic, only nice holes drilled.

Step 6
Now place your bolt from the outside in, add a washer on the inside and then place the nut on the bolt and tighten with a crescent wrench. If you are using the right size bolts you will have a nut that sits flush with the bolt end leaving a smooth surface. I was concerned about a longer bolt scratching me when I was reworking a box, and with the right length of bolt there is no chance of that occurring.

Step 7
Take one of your cable clamps and place it onto your cage, place it with the bent section pointed toward the cage, not away from it. You will understand when you put it on and basically it will look upside down.

Step 8
Take a zip tie and thread it through the bottom and top sections of your base and then thread through your cable clamp holes. Tighten the zip tie just a small bit so you can come back and adjust all of the zip ties and set the cage just how you want it.

This was really easy to do and I don't see any problems in the future with the design. My husband likes it alot, it looks nice and is very stable.


Here are the photos;
Attached Thumbnails




I have spoken to Cable Ties Unlimited and have confirmed the parts that can be purchased from them for a reasonable price are,

1. Cable ties-releasable
item #RT8-50-0C-.19=7.87" cable ties=100 pcs
NOTE: You must use the .19 sized zip ties-the .30 will not fit through the cable mounts per Cable Ties Unlimited.

2. 4-Way Adhesive Cable Mount w/Screw Hole
item # CM100-0C=the square black mounts you drill a hole through=100 pcs

3. Heavy Duty cable clamp
item# 1/4" Black Heavy Duty Cable Clamp=this clamp goes around the cage and the cable tie is strung through the holes in the clamp=100 pcs.

To make one cage setup on an Earth box requires 10 pieces of each item so you have what is needed for 10 Earth boxes or other containers using 10 points of connection. Smaller containers would need less depending on the size of container.

The other parts needed for the cage setup should be purchased where you can find them. I will keep searching for a bulk purchase place for them and post if I find it.

So Rockporter, have you used this system the past two seasons? How has it held up? Any problems, any improvements you have made?

[Rockporter]

Originally Posted by brian1269

So Rockporter, have you used this system the past two seasons? How has it held up? Any problems, any improvements you have made?

No problems other than the black connectors lose their sticky and fall off. It's easy to replace them though!

[brian1269]

Originally Posted by Rockporter

No problems other than the black connectors lose their sticky and fall off. It's easy to replace them though!

The black connectors? Do you mean the cable mounts? I thought those were bolted on.

[rnewste]

You could just drill a small hole under the lip of the EarthBox to feed the cable tie through. This should not affect the structural integrity of the EarthBox, in my opinion.

Raybo