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Old August 21, 2015   #61
Worth1
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Watch this video and see if you can pick up on the mistakes this lady made.
And the reason the weight never let off steam.

Worth
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMaWehPGwJY
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Old August 21, 2015   #62
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Well, for sure the weight doesn't go on until the steam has been hissing until a steady stream is whistling out... 5 min or so, and the clamps should be tightened opposite each other evenly the whole way around. maybe a few other things such as reading the manual first? before attempting to use such a piece of equipment... This is the kind of person who has accidents because they didn't read how to use it first. I would never loan my all american out to anybody with out insisting on them READING the manual before they started using it. This isn't a very good video for a beginner to see. As a matter of fact... no one else gets to use mine. They get the other ones.
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Old August 21, 2015   #63
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Never let it vent.
Lid is cocked. Maybe more I couldnt watch any longer...
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Old August 21, 2015   #64
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On top of what you guys said here is something that really got my goat.
When she was talking about the gauge she said 240 PSI.
She cant read a gauge it is 10 PSI as we all know, the 240 is the temperature.
Then she complained that the (jiggler) 'her words not mine, wasn't working right.

If you look real close she has the weight gauge sitting on the 15 pound side.
There is no way the thing will let off steam at 10 psi.
They might think about investing in a jar lifter too.
Youtube is full of idiotic videos like this.

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Old August 21, 2015   #65
Nematode
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You hit a pet peeeve.
I go to the web to learn and I learn a lot, but it is jammed full of "first timer" info.
People get all excited and want to share what they are doing, thats fine in a way, but don't pretend you know what you are doing when you don't.
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Old August 21, 2015   #66
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Yeah----uh----you-----know-----uh-----and-----the-----uh-----thing----that-----uh----really-----bothers------me-----is-----uh-----you------know-----the----uh-----people-----that-----uh-----say-----uh-----like----100-----times------uh----in-----a-----uh----video.

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Old August 22, 2015   #67
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Those folks in the video also were apparently using previously used lids. I noticed the telltale mark (small dent) that is made by a beer/pop opener (when you open jars) on a couple of the lids. Look among the jars in the middle area when she/he is loading and moving the jars around.

Of course, they're off the grid and maybe that's a necessary thing for a low budget. But, I need to check my Presto instruction book. I'm thinking that all meat needs 15 PSI. I could be wrong.
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Old August 22, 2015   #68
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Meat/fish at low altitude is 11 lbs. I haven't watched the video yet but I don't see the savings gained by reusing single use lids. You will have a much higher rate of seal failure...all that work, the expense of the meat, etc gone, not to mention if you raised the animal and butchered it. Shortcuts like that don't save you money.
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Old August 22, 2015   #69
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Ted I saw the dents too but the thought of reusing lids was beyond me.
My mother knew some people that reused lids, we never did.

As for the pressure for canning meat.
It is still 10 psi or 11 or 12 depending on the manufacturer of the canner and if you are reading a gauge or you have weight gauges.

Here is something many people dont realize about that gauge that has temps and PSI on it.
It is marked for sea level, the temperature readings on it are worthless at 8000 feet above sea level.
In other words you need 15 psi to reach 240F at 8000 to 10,000 feet above sea level.

What does this say.
With a modern pressure cooker with all of the safety features anything above 10,000 feet a pressure cooker will not get to 240F.
It also limits the people that could even can at 15 PSI/250F to the folks that live at sea level to 1000 or so feet.

Now with my old cooker I could (but will not) run it at 20 psi, at 21 PSI the poppet valve opens.
I have it set to open at 15.

This also means that they dont make anything affordable to can for shorter times at higher pressures and temperatures for the home canner.
From hearing some of the comments on videos I have watched many of these people dont have a clue as to what is going on inside the pressure canner.
More than one person has said that the jar is going to leak inside the canner and to expect it because it is under extreme pressure.
This simply isn't true.
There are two main reasons for a jar to leak, one is the ring isn't screwed down tight enough the other is the pressure is let off to fast.
If you let the pressure off too fast your jar has 10 to 15 psi inside it and it will break or leak.
It didn't have that 10 to 15 psi inside it when it was inside the pressure cooker under pressure.
All things were equal at that time.

I am taking the time to write this not for people that already know it but for those that may need to learn and understand a little more.
I hope it has been of some help.

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Old August 22, 2015   #70
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I should have said 11 lbs on a dial gauge.

Letting the pressure out too fast - a sure way to either break the jar or have all the contents siphon out. The time it takes for the canner pressure to reach zero is part of the processing time. A fellow in Washington state wanted to hurry up the process while canning elk meat. He took the jars out too soon so he could get the next batch in. Results was botulism.

http://www.kplu.org/post/home-cannin...ical-emergency
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Old August 22, 2015   #71
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"Now with my old cooker I could (but will not) run it at 20 psi"
Is this pressure canner still available?. I could find no domestic cooker above 15 PSI.
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Old August 22, 2015   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Durgan View Post
"Now with my old cooker I could (but will not) run it at 20 psi"
Is this pressure canner still available?. I could find no domestic cooker above 15 PSI.
Durgan this is an old Kook Kwick canner.

I had it in the family for years, (It was my wife's grandmothers) and it was built back in the day when people were expected to have some sense.
In the pictuer below you will see a petcock and an adjustable pressure relief valve.
In the instruction manual I found on line for it, the spring is set at full pressure to go off between 21 and 22 PSI.
This would be 259F at sea level.
I had to make a new spring and test it.(I have spring stock of all kinds).
No plugs to blow out it simply releases pressure and it closes again.
It isn't idiot proof, it is up to me to make sure all parts work correctly before I use it.
Also here is a link to the thread before and after.
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=35659
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Old August 22, 2015   #73
Nematode
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I think there are national laws that prohibit operation of steam at greater than 15psi without a special license.
Tpv valves
Car radiators
Pressure canners.
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Old August 22, 2015   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nematode View Post
I think there are national laws that prohibit operation of steam at greater than 15psi without a special license.
Tpv valves
Car radiators
Pressure canners.
And for good reason too.
Most people dont understand what saturation point is when it comes to hot water and pressure
The very shape of a pressure cooker isn't conducive to pressure much less high pressure.
The flat bottom kills everything.
My mom after many safe years using pressure cookers and canners had one blow on her.
She was cooking beans on her old Mirro and the over pressure plug blew out spraying vaporized beans all over the ceiling.
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Old August 22, 2015   #75
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An operator must have one blowout to have the pleasure of cleaning up the mess. Also keep the blowout hole pointing away from the front of the stove and operator. It is a good idea to have a heavy towel handy to cover hole if a blowout occurs.

I do my beans and almost anything, but always use a colander inside to prevent the rocker hole from getting blocked with bubbling material. Peas can be dangerous unless precautions are taken.

I see no justification for gauges. I have been using the Presto for ages with just the 15 PSI rocker. Also I oil the gasket surface with my finger before applying the lid. A gasket will last me for years.

I often re-use the lids, and find my failure rate is about the same as with new lids. I have a special tool for removing the lids so the top does not get distorted.
http://www.durgan.org/URL/?BIQYD 1 July 2014 Vacuum Jar Lid Opening Tool
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