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Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.

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Old July 31, 2015   #856
kurt
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Originally Posted by Barb_FL View Post
It was probably me not Ginny soaking seeds in Foliage Pro. I don't think Ginny uses the Dyna-xxx products. I'm not sure if you are familiar with Dyna-XXX products, but 'heavy feeding' is 1 teaspoon per gallon per month.

Most recently I did it for the pepper seeds that didn't sink via Kay's method. I dropped the floaters in water/foliage pro (just a little - same amount as if you were using it for feeding plants but scaled down to a cup of water).

I left them in FP for hours (didn't pay attention to time).

Result - all but 4 of the floaters ended up sinking. I planted about 8 seeds -(4 per cell) and ALL germinated. This was early June - and I ended up breaking my wrist so I transplanted the FP seeds and the true sinkers with 1 hand. On the FP seedlings, I had to shake them apart since they were so confined. They are all healthy plants now with flowers and some peppers. At this point, I don't know which were the true sinkers vs FP sinkers.

The test would be to plant some of the FP sinkers NOW - 2 months later. I have always went from the FP water to the potting mix. But I do have pepper seeds left so I can try it.

Shortly before this, I used FP for tomato seeds I got on TV from 2007. They germinated as well. Same amount of FP and left for hours.

In the past, I have used FP for Jacaranda seeds which are really hard to germinate. (germination went from <10% to approx. 50%).

If I buy new seeds from a vendor, I DON'T use FP - I expect them to germinate.

I guess I only use it when I'm expecting a problem with germination.

So to your questions:
1 & 2, both yes
3. small amount / hours /have not left soft shell seeds overnight though.
4. All kinds of seeds.

Once I'm done with the FP mix, I water existing plants with it. No waste.

I read about using the Miracle Grow fertilizer for tomato germination here at TV. I just substituted FP because I already had it.
What I will do is a small more defined trial run with attention to dates times and germination rates.Will post the results in the FLA TAG forum so as to keep membership and participation alive since it has kinda been ignored and almost forgotten.Thanks again and sorry for the confusion on my part regarding the original posters credits.I do use the Dyna products since they do have the mega phosphorous levels for some of the wifes pie plate sized Hibicus flowers,works great on the Frangipanis and really gets the Hawaiian Solo Papayas to flower and hold well for fruit production.
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Last edited by kurt; July 31, 2015 at 08:47 PM. Reason: spelin as usual
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Old July 31, 2015   #857
kayrobbins
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Larry, I think Ginny is the one that started this thread and I was hoping she would start a new one. Since our gardening is so different from most areas we have a lot to share with each other. I know I have learned a lot from this long post. Grow lights are great when it is too cold for seedlings but they do help get a head start when it is too hot to be outside too.

Ginger I do always like something different with the tomato foliage and that chartreuse is striking and it was marked as dwarf.

When the new UF tomato offerings got posted on Tomatoville they were overwhelmed with orders and sold out of all the seeds. My local extension office did not get their order filled so I will be giving them most of the seedlings I have started. More people will have a chance to experience them there than if I grow them here. I will keep one of each variety just to see what I think since I rarely grow hybrids.
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Old July 31, 2015   #858
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I think Ginny said she would be back on Aug 1 - tomorrow.

I don't mind starting the thread but don't want to intrude and I know she is busy with her mom and probably just getting back from California and Kansas.

For any newcomers, all are welcome to join in the conversation.
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Old July 31, 2015   #859
Barb_FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kayrobbins View Post
When the new UF tomato offerings got posted on Tomatoville they were overwhelmed with orders and sold out of all the seeds. My local extension office did not get their order filled so I will be giving them most of the seedlings I have started. More people will have a chance to experience them there than if I grow them here. I will keep one of each variety just to see what I think since I rarely grow hybrids.
That's interesting and good to know; I asked on Facebook when the seeds would go out - I ordered on July 17 and they replied quickly that it was early this week. Yesterday I received a Thank You for my donation from UF, but no seeds. I doubt they would send the seeds and Thank you note separately.

It's not like I "NEEDED" those seeds (haha), and I've moved on to Fred Hempel's Kickstarter which has those really cool Orange Jazz tomatoes.


----
RE: when to start in Fall - I started seeds at several times last year - from mid July to mid-Sept. I found that the earlier I started the seeds, the more the plant struggled. Note: I did go away for a week on Sept 1, so that didn't help anything growing at that time. (dilemma too much sun or put on porch and not enough sun)

Please correct my logic, but I always thought the ideal time to start is when the plant flowers when the night time temperatures are cool enough to support fruiting - <73 degrees. The thing is that I look at our average weather pattern and our night time low average is 74 degrees throughout the summer. But, even with HEAT varieties this year and last, it isn't cool enough. I don't think the problem is day time temperatures. It was a hot April and May but June/July were more normal hot. No days over 90 and I put shade over the plants in the early afternoon.

I know that most people sow seeds according to avg first frost - but we rarely get freezes - and I think I can deal with that much easier. So I choose the avg night time lows.

I do know that come October 15th, the weather is extremely pleasant throughout the day and the heat is finally over. On avg, there are some cooler evenings in late Sept and early Oct but it isn't consistent.

So if I want the plant to flower around Oct 1 (to catch some cooler evenings), when should I start the seeds?
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Old August 1, 2015   #860
Fiishergurl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barb_FL View Post
I think Ginny said she would be back on Aug 1 - tomorrow.

I don't mind starting the thread but don't want to intrude and I know she is busy with her mom and probably just getting back from California and Kansas.

For any newcomers, all are welcome to join in the conversation.

Barb or anyone, definitely start a new thread, or even more than one maybe. This thread was fun but it's too big and too long. I keep wanting to find things and get frustrated and give up... lol.

Sorry I haven't been around much. My mom started chemo this past Monday which was earlier than we expected, so I ended up moving my schedule around and came back to Florida last Sunday. She's doing well so far so we will see how it goes. I have been going to doctors visits with her and keeping all the new meds straight as well as documenting everything each day... blood pressure, temp, meds, how she feels etc. Trying to get her started off right with doing all the supplemental things (like drinking lots of water) that can help minimize her side effects... :-)

Ginny
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Old August 1, 2015   #861
Barb_FL
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NEW THREAD started: Start posting there.

http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...452#post495452


Ginny - Best wishes for your mom; you are such a great daughter.

BTW as my final HFF post- I finally found the original Blueberry vendor that I wanted to buy from.

They are out of stock on Sunshine Blue Blueberry plants but have other low chill hours plants in stock. Chill hours are: Total number of hours at or below 45F in a season. (want a low # for us Florida growers). I have requested an email when they are back in stock.

This vendor had really favorable comments on DavesGarden, plants are very reasonable, a flat $10 shipping fee, and offer free plants with every order only when requested. Plants are small and will take a few years to produce anything.

Vendor is: http://wellspringgardens.com/
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Old August 1, 2015   #862
kayrobbins
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Barb, you are right about the night temperatures and most of you have time to start later. If I wait until that time they are not going to have time to produce before the cold. Last year other than the two freezes in November it was so mild I had tomatoes until February. Most years they are done in December or maybe January. I keep trying different approaches trying to find what works best here. Of course every time I think I have figured it out mother nature throws a new twist in to challenge me.
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Old August 1, 2015   #863
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duele más decirte adios. But I am off to a new thread, where I hope to demonstrate I can grow more and better tomatoes. With the help of other Tomatovillans of course.
Thanks for everything.
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Old December 4, 2015   #864
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I have most of my Christmas shopping done so now I have started my 2016 seed ordering. I decided to take a break from growing Datil seeds for Baker Creek and grow as many different peppers as I have wanted to do. I had my list ready but saw this really neat purple pepper at Baker Creek that I just have to try.
http://www.rareseeds.com/presenting-...ippen-peppers/
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