Tomatoville® Gardening Forums


Notices

Information and discussion for successfully cultivating potatoes, the world's fourth largest crop.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old May 6, 2012   #76
wingnut
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
Default

Try it and Let us know!
wingnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 28, 2013   #77
wingnut
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
Default

After planting out about 50% "pull starts" last year, it is all I will plant this year. My yields from "pull starts" was FAR SUPERIOR both tuber size and overall yield, than tuber sown plants.
wingnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 1, 2013   #78
macmex
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Tahlequah, Oklahoma
Posts: 102
Default

That's GREAT to know!

George
Tahlequah, OK
macmex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 9, 2013   #79
Runamuck
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: West Central MN
Posts: 1
Default

After you pull the sprouts from the tuber, what do you do with them until they go into the ground? Do they have to be started indoors? I have two buckets of potatoes left from last years harvest with sprouts anywhere from 6 to 24 inches long. Where do I begin?

Thanks.
Runamuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 9, 2013   #80
Mark0820
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 907
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Runamuck View Post
After you pull the sprouts from the tuber, what do you do with them until they go into the ground? Do they have to be started indoors? I have two buckets of potatoes left from last years harvest with sprouts anywhere from 6 to 24 inches long. Where do I begin?

Thanks.
It would probably be best to go to page 1 of this thread and start reading from there. There are instructions on how to pull sprouts as well as pictures so you can see how the tubers and sprouts look.
Mark0820 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 10, 2013   #81
wingnut
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
Default

You can also take two node cuttings from the ver tips of the long sprouts. I call them "sprout jacks", and usually dip them in a 10% bleach solution then rinse well before being place in a small divot under lights/dome.
wingnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 10, 2013   #82
wingnut
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
Default

Neither of these techniques work well for real EARLY potatoes like red norland, and work best with late season such as french fingerling.
wingnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 10, 2013   #83
Mark0820
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 907
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut View Post
You can also take two node cuttings from the ver tips of the long sprouts. I call them "sprout jacks", and usually dip them in a 10% bleach solution then rinse well before being place in a small divot under lights/dome.
Interesting. After cutting the two nodes from the tip of long sprouts, I'm assuming the end of the sprout doesn't regrow. Do you remove all the sprouts from the potato and let new ones regrow so you can cut the tips again?

This approach isn't quite as messy as "pulling sprouts". I have some potatoes with long sprouts. I might cut a few and give this a try. It is too early for me to be starting plants, but this will be more of a "test run".
Mark0820 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 12, 2013   #84
wingnut
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
Default

I usually only needed a couple "sprout jacks" from each variety, so never worried about it!
wingnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 4, 2014   #85
wingnut
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
Default

I will be growing almost 100% pull starts this year. I t is the oly way to go with most mid-late season types, especially di-ploids.
wingnut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 4, 2014   #86
NathanP
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: RI
Posts: 183
Default

When do you start the tubers sprouting, and when do you plant out?

I have also been wondering how you overwinter the diploids? 20 of the tubers I received from you had no sprouts on them yet, so obviously they stored well however you did it.
NathanP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 4, 2014   #87
wmontanez
Tomatovillian™
 
wmontanez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 776
Default

NP,
I began mine to sprout April 1st but maybe is best mid-March...
__________________
Wendy
wmontanez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 5, 2014   #88
NathanP
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: RI
Posts: 183
Default

Here are some of my pull sprouts.
This is Satina



And this is CIP396256

NathanP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 6, 2015   #89
oynamak
Tomatovillian™
 
oynamak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: California
Posts: 14
Default

Am I too late to the Party?
oynamak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old January 6, 2015   #90
greenthumbomaha
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
Default

I started mine too early and they were growing onto the ceiling. You are not too late in my book.

- Lisa
greenthumbomaha is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:26 PM.


★ Tomatoville® is a registered trademark of Commerce Holdings, LLC ★ All Content ©2022 Commerce Holdings, LLC ★