Drip Tape Irrigation

[JackE]

My neighborhood is the driest place in the area, it can rain downtown but not here.

It's funny you say that because that's exactly the way it seems here! I've heard a lot of people say that - I think everybody feels that way. Never included in that lucky 20%!

Jack

[Wi-sunflower]

Has anyone used the rubber grommet/barbed fittings that insert directly into the PVC manifold

I did quite a few years ago and they were a disaster. Leaky as all get-out. Those pipes are still laying in the barn somewhere, never to be used again.

I call myself a "Rube Goldberg" plumber. Never buy the "right" part when you can find 5 parts in the barn that will make it work.

I use the PVC with the slip to slip fittings. I get the 1 1/4 tees with the 1/2'' threaded center fitting. Then get the threaded x t-tape fitting to go in that.

I wasn't able to get on-line when this thread started. I just finally read it all. Lots of good info. I also get most of my stuff from Irrigation Mart. I don't particularly like Jackie as he wants to "design" a system. I do more of a "seat of the pants" system as we move from field to field every year. But their prices are great.

got to run now,
Carol

[JackE]

Thanks, Carol, but I wish I'd had that info a couple weeks ago.

I just finished installing 24 lines with the grommets and barbs. Some of the grommets leak pretty bad and others don't leak at all. With the low pressure, the leaks aren't really a problem - not enough water loss to make any difference in the operation of the system. If it doesn't get a lot worse, it will be okay. It is a lot easier and cheaper than 1/2" pvc/valves. I learned about it from photos of a huge cantaloupe farm in NM - all grommets and barbs.

The rest of my installation is all t-fitings in the 2" mainline reduced to 1/2" with a ball valve at each line and a slip fitting - definitely better but a lot more complicated and costly. I think the reason some of the grommets leak is because of drill shavings or ragged edges on the inside of the pipe. I should have rigged somthing to ream it on the inside.

Do y'all bury it, Carol? I've got half of the lines buried pretty deep (4-5") right under the rows and half on top next to the rows. We'll see what works best for us - moving the tape to cultivate or working (SHALLOWLY) right over the top of it. So far, I think we'll like the buried tape better. MAybe even leave it in place for several years?? I bought the 15 mil stuff.

Jack

[Wi-sunflower]

Sorry about that. I had over a month with little to no internet access when my computer crashed totally.

With the winters we have we pick it up every fall. I do use the 15 mil tape so it is re-usable for many years.

We don't bury it. It's laid and wrapped a bit from side to side of the row. Keeps it from snaking around like you described. We get it as close to the transplants as possible and then when I come thru with the Allis G cultivator, I'm usually able to throw enough dirt on the tape to keep it in place. I do have to warn the workers many times to watch out for the tape with the hoes when they weed between the plants.

I've found that putting a 1 in filter in line right at the beginning of the section. As close to what you are watering. There is an in-line filter (Y) that has screens and a hose stopcock on the end. You let that fitting "leak" just a tiny bit and it flushes the filter and keeps it from clogging up too fast. I only need a 150 filter as we don't have anything really fine and the 200 clogs up way too fast and doesn't seem to let enough water thru at the low pressures.

I also make my sections large enough that we don't need a pressure regulator. If you can't get a firm drip line at the end of the system you take out a line or 2. With the slip fittings, I don't use any hose clamps in most places. With only 10-12 lbs pressure they don't come apart. In fact that's partly how you can tell if you have too much pressure -- they will come apart with about 15 - 20 lbs +-.

Carol

[JackE]

I started with no pressure regulators but had a few blow-outs and installed one on each zone. I'm not sure the're all that effective - with two of my smaller zones I can't turn-on the water all the way without blowing a couple of tapes off the fittings. I don't use hose clamps either - the threaded tightener on the fittings works okay.

I have a real high quality, Netafim disc filter at the well but I don't have the disc element in there. I'm just using the large cannister as a sand trap, in addition to another flushable sand trap where the water exits the well tank - so far that one has caught all the sand, with none in the filter. I'm debating whether to put the element back in but I really don't think I need it. This well water is real clean except for sand. Now if and when the irrigation pond fills back up - then I'll need the filter big time! That's why I installed it - so I can use the lake water in the drip system (someday).

I haven't seen one of those AC "G" cultivators in years. That was the one with the motor in the back, right? I didn't know they still made them. A neighbor had one when I was a kid - he let me drive it once.

Jack

I'm getting ready to install the EZ-Flow fertilizer injector when it arrives. I just hope these double check valves keeps that stuff out of the pressure pump - that would be costly! I'm VERY uncomfortable with this whole injector thing. I still have this feeling of dread about it.LOL It should arrive from Dripworks next week. Hard to teach an old dog new tricks, but hopefully not impossible!

Jack

[Wi-sunflower]

Yup, it's the one with the engine in the back so you have great visibility for cultivating.

I actually have 2 working Gs and 2 "parts" machines. All are about as old as I am (62). The Allis G hasn't been made since the late 50s. But there are still working ones around. They are getting pricy tho if in good condition.

We don't do the injector stuff for fertilizer so I have no info on that. It has nothing to do with the drip tho. Ray used to work for a fert company and we can get the "hay fines" screenings from them at a very cheap price. We also get some other "off spec" fertilizer just for the cost of the trucking. None of it is soluble tho. Ray spreads it with one of those bulk spreaders the fert companies use. We have 2 old junk spreaders that he somehow manages to keep at least 1 working.

I know what you mean about the "old dog" too. Ray is 68 and has a degree in Ag from Purdue during the 60s era of big chem. For years I didn't dare talk about anything "natural" let alone "organic". But the last few years, little by little, he has somewhat embraced at least some organic ideas. Last year he actually ordered BT on his own for the cabbage loopers instead of something chemical. I about fell over when that happened.

Carol

[JackE]

Deleted - too controversial

[Wi-sunflower]

Oh we aren't "organic", but we will use what we need to to produce a crop. But most years around here we don't need a whole lot of stuff like fungicides. Usually just some insecticides. We have too diverse a crop most times for Herbicides (not much is still labeled for minor crops any more) other than some Round-up wipe over and between rows.

I call us "minimalists" Probably a better term would be IPM or whatever they call that now.

Actually BT is not a "chemical" It's a naturally occurring bacteria that only effects worms / caterpillars.

I agree about some of the organic stuff is as bad or worse than "chemicals" especially if not handled properly.

Carol

[JackE]

I'm going to delete my post above - too controversial and serves no useful purpose. I woke up last night worried about it. Good way to make enemies.

We've quit using Roundup in crop areas. Our sandy soil holds little organic matter and the RU doesn't break down very well and sometimes stunts the next crop. It's also systemic. There are better alternatives now, although expensive.

We use Aim (carfentrazone) for the broadleaf weeds and Arrow (clethodim) for the grasses. The Aim is real safe - no soil or systemic activity whatsoever (costs $200/qt - but only takes a drop per gal). Arrow is safer than RU, IMO, but does have some residual and systemic properties. We only do the middles of the pathways now - never get closer than a foot to the plants.

We still use RU in non crop areas.

Jack

[Wi-sunflower]

Yah, this stuff isn't needed in the Drip thread.

I only mentioned it in relation to learning new stuff. Hubby can be rather stubborn about changing anything.

Carol

[JackE]

As I'm sure you've noticed, I have a lifelong case of diarreah of the mouth! Please don't hesitate to call me down if I get too....I'm looking for a euphemism here ....too....too..."carried away". LOL

[Wi-sunflower]

Me too at times.

I sometimes stay out of threads that might get me in trouble as I "tell it like it is" too bluntly at times.

Carol

[JackE]

My problem is that I just like to hear myself talk! Lemme tellya how bad it is -- I am a retired painter and most of the guys I worked with spoke only spanish. So I studied for hours and hours every night for years and years to master their language - which I did. All that work just so I could hear myself talk!

My wife never really understood how much spanish I actually spoke until we retired and took our RV to Mexico. I had never been in Mexico before, and she was amazed that I could fluently talk to them about anything, regardless of the dialect of the region we were in. I was pretty surprised myself! Houston and Mexico, it seems are both the same, linguistically-speaking at least.

A cop stopped us once and when he saw my Texas license he asked in spanish if I knew his brother Aurelio who works at some restaurant in Dallas (hundreds of miles from where I lived). "Of course I know Aurelio", I said, "we're buddies - can't wait to tell him I ran into you"! My wife was impressed!!

Jack

[JackE]

I got the injector installed yesterday PM and it's presently delivering 3# of 20-10-20 soluble, blue fertilizer to 1200 row /ft zone. The injector is set at maximum delivery speed and it's operating on 60# pressure (it's a high pressure unit).

It's been trying to deliver that little bit of fertilizer for three hours! And the stuff is still dark blue in the tube. I can mix 3# of fert in 50 gals of water and deliver it to 1200 row/ft in 15 minutes - and use less energy that that well is burning, running constantly.

The plants don't even need any water, just fertilizer, but they are getting flooded! With the tractor I can place the fertilizer right at the plants, eficiently and quickly, with little water.

I see no advantage to us with this machine. I'm going to disconnect it and put in the barn with all the rest of the junk. I'm not saying it isn't great for some applications, but does nothing for us.

Jack

[Heritage]

Jack,

It sounds like something is wrong with the injector. Is it sucking any concentrate out of the container? What ratio do you have it set on?

I use my injector at 1:100 ratio and mix 3 # of soluble fert into about 3 gal water. That way, all the fert is injected into 300 gal. and takes about one hour.

Also, I don't know what you mean by running the injector at 60# pressure. The pressure is <15# when the valves are open so not sure what you are referring to.

Steve