Pressure Canning

[JRinPA]

We just bought that exact Presto 23 qt from Amazon a few days back and we're not happy with it at all...I will elaborate in a few days after we figure out who to talk to about it and get our full money back. It is not as described.

[Rockporter]

Originally Posted by Doug9345

They say that the electric sterilizers are suitable for canning, I don't know why, I suspect that they have additional supports in there. They also appear to e set for 17 psi.

I've always used the All American. That's what my parents had, they were afraid of the gaskets letting go. I don't know if this was based on direct information or hear say. It would also have been based on information from the 40's or early fifties. I would e surprised to find out that gaskets made around WWII might had problem. On the other hand my mother was afraid of many things either blowing up or catching fire so I don't know.

I don't see me every buying a new canner as I have three all American Canners, 2 915s and a 921. The 921 has had less than a dozen loads through it. They are 40 years old now. I'm 52 yo and see no reason why they shouldn't go another 40 years.

In order of price there is Mirro, Presto, then All American. I've talked about the AA. The Presto if it is built like they used to be is also a quality canner and I've know people with 25+ year old ones. That's a good price for one as they are normally arounds a $100 dollars. You can't tell aout the future, but parts have remained available for even fairly old canners.

Thanks, so if the 17 pounds what is needed for pressure canning? I have never done it so I don't know the ins and outs of that.

[Rockporter]

Originally Posted by JRinPA

We just bought that exact Presto 23 qt from Amazon a few days back and we're not happy with it at all...I will elaborate in a few days after we figure out who to talk to about it and get our full money back. It is not as described.

Thanks, I will be looking forward to your review of the canner.

[Doug9345]

Originally Posted by Rockporter

Thanks, so if the 17 pounds what is needed for pressure canning? I have never done it so I don't know the ins and outs of that.

Typically 11 psi on a gauge type or use the 10 psi weight if it's a weighted one.

For some one that has never canned before I'd recommend a couple or more trial runs. One would be cold. I'd go through the whole process with just jars filled with water, but not run the temperature or pressure up. That will give you a chance to figure out your moves before you are handling something hot. Things like what am I going to do with the lid when I take it off. Remember it either has a gasket or a machined metal edge, neither of which you want to bang up. It's also hot and large and you don't want to get into contact with it. I set mine on a towel away from the area I'm working.

Canning isn't particularly hard, it's just detail oriented. The temperatures and pressures aren't much different that a liquid cooled engine and that is done with plastic and rubber. The temperature is much less than making candy. All the instructions for handling the canner lid or jar lids are those for handling any gasketed surface. They've have to be clean, free of defects and tightened correctly. The variances in time between one product and the next is caused by some things being "thicker" than others and therefore take more time heat all the way through.

If you have a canner that will take a double layer of pints it is also tall. The top will be around 52" high and you are lifting jars over that.

I'd also do a complete run with nothing but water in the jars. The main thing you are looking for here is controlling the pressure in the canner. Every stove is different and it will give you an idea how tight do you have to keep an eye on it.
It also allows you to make sure that the canner doesn't have a problem like a leak.

[ContainerTed]

I believe the primary reason for not running cold water over a hot Pressure Cooker or Canner would be safety. Most of these devices are made primarily of aluminum. All metals prefer to be heated up and cooled down evenly. With repeated forced cool-downs of one side (the outside), there will be a greater possibility of creating metal fatigue. The effect is similar to bending a nail back and forth until it breaks off. The metal in the area stressed looses its elasticity and becomes more crystal-like and brittle. The microscopic fractures due to the stresses can grow and eventually produce a break that can be violently catastrophic, especially if the pressure is high at the time of the failure.

[TomNJ]

Doug's suggestion of doing a practice run is sound and will help you feel more comfortable. The Ball Blue Book is a great reference with detailed instructions on canning and plenty of tested recipes.

Ted's point is also valid - rapid changes in temperature are not good for the metal, especially aluminum.

TomNJ/VA

[Labradors2]

Originally Posted by ContainerTed

I believe the primary reason for not running cold water over a hot Pressure Cooker or Canner would be safety. Most of these devices are made primarily of aluminum. All metals prefer to be heated up and cooled down evenly. With repeated forced cool-downs of one side (the outside), there will be a greater possibility of creating metal fatigue. The effect is similar to bending a nail back and forth until it breaks off. The metal in the area stressed looses its elasticity and becomes more crystal-like and brittle. The microscopic fractures due to the stresses can grow and eventually produce a break that can be violently catastrophic, especially if the pressure is high at the time of the failure.

That sounds like a reasonable explanation.

Thanks Ted!

Linda

[Rockporter]

Originally Posted by TomNJ

Doug's suggestion of doing a practice run is sound and will help you feel more comfortable. The Ball Blue Book is a great reference with detailed instructions on canning and plenty of tested recipes.

Ted's point is also valid - rapid changes in temperature are not good for the metal, especially aluminum.

TomNJ/VA

Thanks, yes I have a water bath and the ball blue book but definitely need to have some experience with a pressure canner.

[Rockporter]

Originally Posted by Doug9345

Typically 11 psi on a gauge type or use the 10 psi weight if it's a weighted one.

For some one that has never canned before I'd recommend a couple or more trial runs. One would be cold. I'd go through the whole process with just jars filled with water, but not run the temperature or pressure up. That will give you a chance to figure out your moves before you are handling something hot. Things like what am I going to do with the lid when I take it off. Remember it either has a gasket or a machined metal edge, neither of which you want to bang up. It's also hot and large and you don't want to get into contact with it. I set mine on a towel away from the area I'm working.

Canning isn't particularly hard, it's just detail oriented. The temperatures and pressures aren't much different that a liquid cooled engine and that is done with plastic and rubber. The temperature is much less than making candy. All the instructions for handling the canner lid or jar lids are those for handling any gasketed surface. They've have to be clean, free of defects and tightened correctly. The variances in time between one product and the next is caused by some things being "thicker" than others and therefore take more time heat all the way through.

If you have a canner that will take a double layer of pints it is also tall. The top will be around 52" high and you are lifting jars over that.

I'd also do a complete run with nothing but water in the jars. The main thing you are looking for here is controlling the pressure in the canner. Every stove is different and it will give you an idea how tight do you have to keep an eye on it.
It also allows you to make sure that the canner doesn't have a problem like a leak.

Thanks Doug, I think I am going to go with a regular AA for stove use instead of the electric one, it sounds like I would be able to get the right pressure when needed.

[Doug9345]

Many will disagree with me, but I much prefer the 915 http://www.allamericancanner.com/all...surecanner.htm over the 921 http://www.allamericancanner.com/all...surecanner.htm . The 915 holds less pints but the same number of quarts. It's 4" shorter. That doesn't sound like a lot, but it is for something setting on top of the stove. It's lighter and that makes a difference. One other thing, It says that it will hold ten pints. I think it will if they are all regular mouth round jars and you fiddle with getting them place just so. If you have any jars that are squarish or wide mouth I don't think it will.

[TomNJ]

For those of you who are big and strong (or have someone in the house who is) and do a high volume of canning, the All American A930 will allow two layers of quarts, holding 19 pints or 14 quarts. Yes it's a bit heavy (about 20 lbs empty without lid) and tall, but if you can handle it it sure speeds things up! If you add the water and jars after positioning the canner on the stove, the most you will have to lift is 20 lbs. Of course you may need a step stool!

I am 6' 3" and have lots of clearance above the stove, so I find the size no problem. I load mine on the floor and just hoist it once up onto the stove. This canner will last a lifetime and I love it!

The AA canners are expensive (the A930 is $280 delivered at Amazon), but if you divide that over 20 years of canning it sounds a lot better!

Here is some information on the AA line of canners:

http://www.allamericancookers.com/14...-canner-review

TomNJ/VA

[JRinPA]

That 23qt presto we just got says double layers of pints or half pints, but only for water bath and not for pressure. Does that AA double deck for pressure canning?

[JRinPA]

Did not hear back from Presto today. I talked to someone on the phone and emailed pics around 1pm but that was it. I guess I will hear back from them on Monday, but I wanted to let Rockporter know what happened. It may not matter for his stove.

The problem with this canner we bought was it states on the package that it works for smooth top ranges. The "reviews" agreed that it worked as well. Even some above in this thread. Today I confirmed this on the phone with Presto's customer service. It is supposed to be a very flat 8" raised bottom contacting the stovetop, to work with an 8" burner.

Well, the one we received is not quite flat, rather a bit concave. It only contacts the stove in a narrow ring and the center of the burner soon gets a hotspot. It would not even boil water because the stoves cycles off to protect itself due to the hotspot. Also due to the this "not flat as it should be" bottom, the burner got scratched/etched by the aluminum ring that does contact.

I didn't look over much else - we bought the weighted regulator to go with it and I think it would work well if the bottom was flat. The handles seemed a little flimsy too - they are held with one bolt through the handle and they are able to rotate instead of two bolts making them very solid.

[newatthiskat]

I have had my presto Pressure canner for many seasons and have never had to change out the gasket. If I do it is a very inexpensive piece but I do not see mine going any time soon! I figured the price of the canner vs every once in a great while getting a gasket did not add up to any of the other canners. Also I have a really bad back and two horrible shoulders so I was looking for lighter weight. Also using it on a flat top electric stove is acceptable. Those were my reasons

[newatthiskat]

My presto book says to not double stack for waterbath. You have to have the jars covered by 2 inches of water to waterbath. The book it says you can double stack for pressure canning the 1/2 pint and pints.