Suddenly Yellow Leaves - Page 6

b54red · May 31, 2016

I am still using my original SP2 backpack sprayer after 8 to 10 years. I bought a replacement last year thinking it couldn't possibly keep going any longer but I am still using the same one and haven't taken the new one out of the box. A trick I learned was always put it up with at least a half gallon of clean water in it and with a little pressure still in it. I found when I followed the directions of clearing all the liquid out and storing it dry that it was hard to get primed and pumping after being stored for any length of time and sometimes had to take the pump apart and that was a pain. Since I started doing that over 5 years ago it hasn't failed me once. I think they are cheaper now than when I bought mine years ago but even if it was 200 bucks it is well worth it unless you get a lemon.

Besides using the bleach spray on tomatoes I use it on squash and cucumbers to prevent mold. If used early and often it will keep it off the plants the whole season. I regret that it doesn't do a thing for fusarium wilt, nematodes or TSWV but almost any foliage disease will at least be slowed by it. It is a real life saver during rainy weather.

Bill

OzoneNY · June 1, 2016

more rain. so much for dry cultivation tomatoes

AlittleSalt · June 1, 2016

Ozone, It rained here for hours this afternoon and evening with lots of thunder. We got a half inch of rain total. Water is standing in the clay areas as if it rained a gully washer. The ground is so saturated that it doesn't take much to make water pool.

By far, I have not given up on the spring garden - some plants are loving the extra rain. But I'm also looking foreword to growing a fall garden. It's odd to think that way around here. Usually the spring garden is the one to expect to grow better. You'll find that a lot of gardeners around here don't plant a fall garden at all. They believe it takes too much effort and the chance of failure is greater.

I believe a fall garden in this wet year might be easier to grow. Eventually, it will quit raining, and we need to prepare our gardens for heat - and water only when the time is right.

Worth1 · June 1, 2016

The deer found my sweet potatoes and ate a bunch of my big tomatoes and the vines.

Ate one of my pepper plants to the ground.
I am going to kill the SOB's

Worth

AlittleSalt · June 7, 2016

I found the yellowing on many different vegetables. Including:

Mint
Runner Beans
Okra
A Pepper plant
Tomato

I'm wondering, would fertilizing help them grow out of it?

OzoneNY · June 13, 2016

Salt!
Hows the yellowing problem for you? I am almost wiped out, just waiting for last fruit to ripen or rot, which ever comes first.

AlittleSalt · June 13, 2016

Ozone, I showed the roots of tomatoes here today and found out that my main garden has Root Knot Nematodes. The main garden is south of our house.

Otherwise, we got hours of rain (2.5") - I'll know more tomorrow morning. Our Porters are in a separate raised bed to the north of our house.

OzoneNY · June 13, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlittleSalt

Ozone, I showed the roots of tomatoes here today and found out that my main garden has Root Knot Nematodes. The main garden is south of our house.

Otherwise, we got hours of rain (2.5") - I'll know more tomorrow morning. Our Porters are in a separate raised bed to the north of our house.

I didnt think Root Knot Nematodes was a problem in this part of the world. I swear these plagues are falling from the sky with this rain. We got 2+ inches more rain yesterday.

bower · June 14, 2016

Salt, I'm having some yellowing with my new container soil as well, so I was reading this thread and some other things I googled last night, found a pic of "iron chlorosis" that matches what I have with light yellow in the center of the newest leaves.

So just now while eating breakfast I found another page about that, and it also describes what you showed to a T - even yellowing on one side can be iron chlorosis, and in Colorado alkaline soil it is common when there's excessive spring rain:
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/Gardennotes/223.html

So the good news is, you may not have fusarium at all. Just a bad rainy spring with iron deficiency chlorosis. I'm assuming you have alkaline soil like Worth (and Colorado) - in my case it's more likely too acid - so I'll have to look a little further for the solution...

But check out the advice given on that page, you can at least try some treatment for the iron and if it works... no more fusarium worries!

AlittleSalt · June 14, 2016

I am going to send in a soil sample this week.

Unlike Worth's soil, the PH is 6.7 acidic in the garden, and even lower away from the garden. The RKN doesn't let the roots transfer nutrients and moisture correctly to the plant.

bower · June 14, 2016

Our soil is even more acid, and when we have a wet spring/summer I've seen the same chlorosis on a variety of plants in the garden.
There are several causes possible:
- with the rain, soil is waterlogged and anaerobic and plant cannot take up iron in those conditions
- clay soil, compacted soil can have the same effect - roots need oxygen to take up iron
- if pH is too high or too low, can't get the iron
- in some places there just is no iron in the soil... ha. not here for sure we are loaded with iron and manganese. But the soil is clay, it rains too much, and the pH tends to low.

I was surprised that the pH for iron uptake is pretty narrow.

AlittleSalt · June 14, 2016

These pictures today are from one of the Porter plants in a raised bed 80 or so feet away from our main garden. It has been raining and hot and humid this week.
Sometimes you just shake your head without saying word

I had to use a very sharp chef's knife to split the stalk.

Lindalana · June 14, 2016

My recipe for this type of garden disasters is foliar spray. You have to have EM though. I use SCD Bio Ag, actually I use mother culture and make my own but anyway, EM, fish emulsion, kelp, molasses does the trick of healing plants faster for me. I use calculator on SmilingGardener site to know dose. Damage does heal faster and plants are more resilient. http://www.smilinggardener.com/sale/calculator

May 31, 2016	#76
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	I am still using my original SP2 backpack sprayer after 8 to 10 years. I bought a replacement last year thinking it couldn't possibly keep going any longer but I am still using the same one and haven't taken the new one out of the box. A trick I learned was always put it up with at least a half gallon of clean water in it and with a little pressure still in it. I found when I followed the directions of clearing all the liquid out and storing it dry that it was hard to get primed and pumping after being stored for any length of time and sometimes had to take the pump apart and that was a pain. Since I started doing that over 5 years ago it hasn't failed me once. I think they are cheaper now than when I bought mine years ago but even if it was 200 bucks it is well worth it unless you get a lemon. Besides using the bleach spray on tomatoes I use it on squash and cucumbers to prevent mold. If used early and often it will keep it off the plants the whole season. I regret that it doesn't do a thing for fusarium wilt, nematodes or TSWV but almost any foliage disease will at least be slowed by it. It is a real life saver during rainy weather. Bill

June 1, 2016	#77
OzoneNY Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Frisco Texas Posts: 390	more rain. so much for dry cultivation tomatoes

June 1, 2016	#78
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	Ozone, It rained here for hours this afternoon and evening with lots of thunder. We got a half inch of rain total. Water is standing in the clay areas as if it rained a gully washer. The ground is so saturated that it doesn't take much to make water pool. By far, I have not given up on the spring garden - some plants are loving the extra rain. But I'm also looking foreword to growing a fall garden. It's odd to think that way around here. Usually the spring garden is the one to expect to grow better. You'll find that a lot of gardeners around here don't plant a fall garden at all. They believe it takes too much effort and the chance of failure is greater. I believe a fall garden in this wet year might be easier to grow. Eventually, it will quit raining, and we need to prepare our gardens for heat - and water only when the time is right.

June 1, 2016	#79
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	The deer found my sweet potatoes and ate a bunch of my big tomatoes and the vines. Ate one of my pepper plants to the ground. I am going to kill the SOB's Worth

June 13, 2016	#81
OzoneNY Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Frisco Texas Posts: 390	Salt! Hows the yellowing problem for you? I am almost wiped out, just waiting for last fruit to ripen or rot, which ever comes first.

June 14, 2016	#84
bower Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Newfoundland, Canada Posts: 6,794	Salt, I'm having some yellowing with my new container soil as well, so I was reading this thread and some other things I googled last night, found a pic of "iron chlorosis" that matches what I have with light yellow in the center of the newest leaves. So just now while eating breakfast I found another page about that, and it also describes what you showed to a T - even yellowing on one side can be iron chlorosis, and in Colorado alkaline soil it is common when there's excessive spring rain: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/Gardennotes/223.html So the good news is, you may not have fusarium at all. Just a bad rainy spring with iron deficiency chlorosis. I'm assuming you have alkaline soil like Worth (and Colorado) - in my case it's more likely too acid - so I'll have to look a little further for the solution... But check out the advice given on that page, you can at least try some treatment for the iron and if it works... no more fusarium worries!

June 14, 2016	#88
Lindalana Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Chicago IL Posts: 857	My recipe for this type of garden disasters is foliar spray. You have to have EM though. I use SCD Bio Ag, actually I use mother culture and make my own but anyway, EM, fish emulsion, kelp, molasses does the trick of healing plants faster for me. I use calculator on SmilingGardener site to know dose. Damage does heal faster and plants are more resilient. http://www.smilinggardener.com/sale/calculator