When to Pull Them - Page 6

MrSalvage · June 16, 2016

I am so sorry to hear this. With all the great posts from all the others there is light at the end of the tunnel. Lets just say you have certainly done your homework in this thread. I hope your plan gets you & yours back on track.

Bill

Worth1 · June 16, 2016

I remember the Green Acres TV show where she was going to grow spaghetti.

She was on a new tractor and he still had his pile of junk he bought from the crook.
Worth

AlittleSalt · June 16, 2016

It looks like hard red wheat needs more cold temperatures than what zone 9 provides. I did read that it can last 10-15 years in a sealed container.

Worth1 · June 16, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlittleSalt

It looks like hard red wheat needs more cold temperatures than what zone 9 provides. I did read that it can last 10-15 years in a sealed container.

I can grow the softer bread wheat no problem.

My wish was to grow Durum wheat to make semolina, not gonna happen.

Worth

Stvrob · June 16, 2016

Sorry to hear about your RKN diagnosis. For tomatoes I recommend grafting your favorite varieties onto rkn resistant roots. Also, I do the marigold thing, I have these huge smelly marigolds called nemagone. Very vigorous, they root easily from cuttings and I'm always sticking them in the ground everywhere. I'm not positive if they work . The flowers are small and kinda ugly, but huge amounts of foliage.

One year along time ago I hauled a bunch of crawdad shells back from a party and worked them into the soil. That worked great. If you can find a truckload of shrimp shells for some reason that would also work. Anything with a chiten shell helps as it decomposes.( Crab, shrimp, insects, Crawdads).Root knot nematodes are also covered in chiten. The idea is that some kind of microbe starts living in your soil that specializes in consuming chiten. These microbes end up decimating the nematodes.

You can sort of manage to live with nematode. Lots and lots of organic matter discourages them. And some things seem somewhat rkn resistant if you go easy on the fertilizer and just accept that the plant is not as lush and productive as the pictures in the seed catalogs.

Your winter garden can still be awesome!

AlittleSalt · June 16, 2016

I've been reading about chitin and good nematodes. Thanks for the advice

Well, just got back from town. It was a successful trip. We paid off the property taxes and got the soil test kit in the same building. And 5 pounds of Elbon cereal rye is A LOT of seeds. $10

Worth1 · June 16, 2016

I bought 50 pounds one time and did the whole place and still had half a bag left over.

Worth

AlittleSalt · June 16, 2016

I was thinking about the replies here in this thread. I realized that I never mentioned having healthy looking/producing tomato plants in two large raised beds around 80 feet from the affected garden. There are 29 plants in those raised beds. Some are growing well while others need to be replaced. I have seeds planted in cells to replace the ones I don't think will oversummer. It has rained here too much and too often.

Starlight · June 16, 2016

Here is another site for you Salt. You might get some more info from it and it lists further on down the name of specific marigolds to use and a plan of action too.

imp.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7489.html

Hope the link works, can't figure out how to copy and paste on this puter.

Worth1 · June 16, 2016

Is this it?
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7489.html

Starlight · June 16, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Worth1

Is this it?
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7489.html

Yes. That's it. Thanks Worth!

AlittleSalt · June 17, 2016

I will be pulling two plants in our 12 x 34' keyhole raised bed tomorrow. Of course, the roots will be the first thing I'll look at. The soil in that raised bed came from about 30' south of the main garden, so I guess it is possible for there to be RKN present. If those 2 plants I pull have RKN damage tomorrow - I'll treat those beds the same as the main garden.

I wish I had found out about having the RKN before making this thread. I would have given the thread a better title for those searching for Root Knot Nematode help.

I do realize that even with all the research on countless sites and doing everything that I feel is right - it might not work. I've never solarized or grown cereal rye. I have grown the smelly dwarf French marigolds (Because I like the way they smell and look) I have grown annual ryegrass to help keep a new earthen dam from washing out.

I like the idea of good nematodes eating away at cutworms and grub worms and other pests underground. I want to try a few million or so of them. Chitin is something else I wouldn't mind trying.

AlittleSalt · June 18, 2016

I wasn't able to work on the garden yesterday, but got started this morning. The first and most difficult to remove row is out now. There were a few plants that looked like they may have made it to late July. Some were loaded down with tomatoes. I wrote down those on the good list and will write the others on a separate list.

The soil is still wet at least 18" down. The T posts were very easy to pull by hand. I've talked to several Ag people and they think the clay that's around 20" below the surface is keeping the sandy loam wet. It makes sense because the hill is still draining. It's wet everywhere here in Johnson county. I learned that Lake Whitney isn't releasing flood water in fear of flooding others down river. If anyone wants to look it up online - it's the Brazos river - here's a general search https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...r+lake+whitney

Got to go get some more done before it gets too hot.

Worth1 · June 18, 2016

Salt I hat to disagree with the AG guys gut they are wrong.
The sandy loam is keeping the clay wet.

Sand and sandy loam doesn't crack so it doesn't have much capillary action for the water to evaporate.
It wont hold as much water as clay but it will hold it longer.
It is acting like an impervious sheet on top of the clay holding the moisture in.

Worth

AlittleSalt · June 18, 2016

Worth, one guy did say that they were keeping each other wet. His words were, "They're playing in concert."

In a PM today, a person wrote that I should send in a sample of the infected roots so they can verify it is nematodes and tell me what kind they are. I'm sending a soil sample anyway - ought as well make it a twofer mailing. Both will be going to Texas A&M. I also promised some pictures.

Could you imagine how well this garden would have produced if it weren't for all the rain and nematodes. The last picture is a 1 lb.+ Rebel Yell. We like them a lot.

June 16, 2016	#83
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	I was thinking about the replies here in this thread. I realized that I never mentioned having healthy looking/producing tomato plants in two large raised beds around 80 feet from the affected garden. There are 29 plants in those raised beds. Some are growing well while others need to be replaced. I have seeds planted in cells to replace the ones I don't think will oversummer. It has rained here too much and too often. Last edited by AlittleSalt; June 16, 2016 at 09:38 PM.

June 17, 2016	#87
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	I will be pulling two plants in our 12 x 34' keyhole raised bed tomorrow. Of course, the roots will be the first thing I'll look at. The soil in that raised bed came from about 30' south of the main garden, so I guess it is possible for there to be RKN present. If those 2 plants I pull have RKN damage tomorrow - I'll treat those beds the same as the main garden. I wish I had found out about having the RKN before making this thread. I would have given the thread a better title for those searching for Root Knot Nematode help. I do realize that even with all the research on countless sites and doing everything that I feel is right - it might not work. I've never solarized or grown cereal rye. I have grown the smelly dwarf French marigolds (Because I like the way they smell and look) I have grown annual ryegrass to help keep a new earthen dam from washing out. I like the idea of good nematodes eating away at cutworms and grub worms and other pests underground. I want to try a few million or so of them. Chitin is something else I wouldn't mind trying. Last edited by AlittleSalt; June 17, 2016 at 11:30 PM.

June 16, 2016	#76
MrSalvage Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: VA - Zone 7A Posts: 344	I am so sorry to hear this. With all the great posts from all the others there is light at the end of the tunnel. Lets just say you have certainly done your homework in this thread. I hope your plan gets you & yours back on track. Bill

June 16, 2016	#77
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	I remember the Green Acres TV show where she was going to grow spaghetti. She was on a new tractor and he still had his pile of junk he bought from the crook. Worth

June 16, 2016	#80
Stvrob Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 1,413	Sorry to hear about your RKN diagnosis. For tomatoes I recommend grafting your favorite varieties onto rkn resistant roots. Also, I do the marigold thing, I have these huge smelly marigolds called nemagone. Very vigorous, they root easily from cuttings and I'm always sticking them in the ground everywhere. I'm not positive if they work . The flowers are small and kinda ugly, but huge amounts of foliage. One year along time ago I hauled a bunch of crawdad shells back from a party and worked them into the soil. That worked great. If you can find a truckload of shrimp shells for some reason that would also work. Anything with a chiten shell helps as it decomposes.( Crab, shrimp, insects, Crawdads).Root knot nematodes are also covered in chiten. The idea is that some kind of microbe starts living in your soil that specializes in consuming chiten. These microbes end up decimating the nematodes. You can sort of manage to live with nematode. Lots and lots of organic matter discourages them. And some things seem somewhat rkn resistant if you go easy on the fertilizer and just accept that the plant is not as lush and productive as the pictures in the seed catalogs. Your winter garden can still be awesome!

June 16, 2016	#84
Starlight Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: AL Posts: 1,993	Here is another site for you Salt. You might get some more info from it and it lists further on down the name of specific marigolds to use and a plan of action too. imp.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7489.html Hope the link works, can't figure out how to copy and paste on this puter.

June 18, 2016	#88
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	I wasn't able to work on the garden yesterday, but got started this morning. The first and most difficult to remove row is out now. There were a few plants that looked like they may have made it to late July. Some were loaded down with tomatoes. I wrote down those on the good list and will write the others on a separate list. The soil is still wet at least 18" down. The T posts were very easy to pull by hand. I've talked to several Ag people and they think the clay that's around 20" below the surface is keeping the sandy loam wet. It makes sense because the hill is still draining. It's wet everywhere here in Johnson county. I learned that Lake Whitney isn't releasing flood water in fear of flooding others down river. If anyone wants to look it up online - it's the Brazos river - here's a general search https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...r+lake+whitney Got to go get some more done before it gets too hot.