Hey Fellow Floridians - Year 2 - Page 65

Fiishergurl · April 14, 2016

Heres my cucumber plant. Thanks for the advice. I'm going to use BT. I already have that and the neem and such. Should i try to avoid the flowers when I spray the plant?

Ginny

AudreyFL · April 14, 2016

Barb - just a quick thank you on info for mulching. I had a feeling bark chips weren't the best way to go.

Garden update - Early Girl producing beautiful tomatoes, Black Cherry is overloaded (first year, they are so good!). But Dwarf Tomato Project plants are struggling. Have lost a few due to spotting and general health issues (Rosella Purple, Sophie's Choice barely hanging on) and New a big Dwarf seems like he doesn't grow much. Kangaroo Paw Yellow fought from the beginning, lots of holes in leaves, etc.

So far, Dwarf Champion is strongest, growing well, no leaf issues, very healthy and robust.

Am a bit disappointed since I grew these from seed with lots of excitement but it seems that my generic box box store seeds like Patio and Rutgers are the ones who continue in great health.

Wondering why DTP plants seem so prone to bugs and mildew issues? I've trimmed off bad foliage but there's just not much left of them now.

Audrey - Jupiter

Fiishergurl · April 14, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by AudreyFL

Barb - just a quick thank you on info for mulching. I had a feeling bark chips weren't the best way to go.

Garden update - Early Girl producing beautiful tomatoes, Black Cherry is overloaded (first year, they are so good!). But Dwarf Tomato Project plants are struggling. Have lost a few due to spotting and general health issues (Rosella Purple, Sophie's Choice barely hanging on) and New a big Dwarf seems like he doesn't grow much. Kangaroo Paw Yellow fought from the beginning, lots of holes in leaves, etc.

So far, Dwarf Champion is strongest, growing well, no leaf issues, very healthy and robust.

Am a bit disappointed since I grew these from seed with lots of excitement but it seems that my generic box box store seeds like Patio and Rutgers are the ones who continue in great health.

Wondering why DTP plants seem so prone to bugs and mildew issues? I've trimmed off bad foliage but there's just not much left of them now.

Audrey - Jupiter

Audrey,

I had the same experience with dwarfs. I am on the intracoastal just 30 yards from the water and the humidity here does not mesh with the compact, very close together leaves. That was just my experience in my environment.

Black Cherry is in my top two of all tomatoes I have tried along with Pink Berkeley Tie Dye.

Ginny

ginger2778 · April 14, 2016

Audrey, very hard to grow dwarfs here in S Fl, but it can be done. I suggest starting again in the fall, because Spr./Summer is too hot and too humid. And also suggest you trim out several of the leaves to allow for better air circulation. Less fungal problems that way.
Also, getting them on a preventive regimen with a very dilute liquid copper fungicide and BT spray every 7-10 days, but also after every heavy rain will help a lot with the fungus and the leaf holes (which are usually caused by worms).

kayrobbins · April 14, 2016

I agree with Ginger. They say dwarf tomatoes do not need pruning but for our conditions they do. The leaves can be so dense on the interior that it is hard to spray and the worms can hide from you. Once I started pruning my results have been so much better.

Barb_FL · April 14, 2016

Audrey, I'm so glad you brought this up re: dwarfs. My dwarfs start out looking like the pictures people post, but sure don't end up looking like them. This time I got a lot of first truss fruit, some 2nd truss, but it was rare if I got more after that. I've never had good luck with New Big Dwarf, but JPOP had major success with it.

BWT - JPOPs dwarfs were beautiful though.

Ginny - your Cucumber plant looks good and healthy. On the Betas and Park's All Season, once the flower is pollinated, the cuke is ready to pick in a few days.

That doesn't seem to be the case with the Snows; the cuke is short and stout.

Kay - Re: pickle worms; once my plant is super productive, I usually am starting another replacement. Now I'm hesitant b/c of someone posting here about fruit not setting in high heat. I really don't remember that ever being a problem; but I could have been growing Parks All Season. Bugs usually get the plants first.

Zone9b · April 15, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by AudreyFL

Barb - just a quick thank you on info for mulching. I had a feeling bark chips weren't the best way to go.
Garden update - Early Girl producing beautiful tomatoes, Black Cherry is overloaded (first year, they are so good!). But Dwarf Tomato Project plants are struggling. Have lost a few due to spotting and general health issues (Rosella Purple, Sophie's Choice barely hanging on) and New a big Dwarf seems like he doesn't grow much. Kangaroo Paw Yellow fought from the beginning, lots of holes in leaves, etc.
So far, Dwarf Champion is strongest, growing well, no leaf issues, very healthy and robust.
Am a bit disappointed since I grew these from seed with lots of excitement but it seems that my generic box box store seeds like Patio and Rutgers are the ones who continue in great health.
Wondering why DTP plants seem so prone to bugs and mildew issues? I've trimmed off bad foliage but there's just not much left of them now.
Audrey - Jupiter

Audrey,
I tried to grow a number of dwarfs last fall but they were all but a total loss. Central Florida is a challenging place to grow vegetables, especially tomatoes and each gardener has choices to make as to how they want to attempt to grow their vegetables. Whether one is growing for someone else to consume their produce or consuming it oneself may influence the decisions made. Many here in Florida grow beautiful tomatoes some not so much. I consume a large portion of what I grow and my primary goal is to grow much of my own food. However to grow beautiful tomatoes almost certainly is going to require the use of as fungicides and pesticides. It would appear that pests can be controlled with chemicals which are not all that risky to consume. However, to me, fungicides appear to be another issue. Copper Sulfate, although allowed as a so called Organic, is something that as this point I am not prepared to spray on my garden and in turn eat the produce, but many do and that is certainly their prerogative. I try to do my best at relying on the world of plant breeders to produce varieties that have as much resistance and vigor as possible to contend with the diseases that mother nature has to offer.
Larry

Barb_FL · April 15, 2016

Got my 2 plants (southern variety) from Baker's Creek today. They are small but look healthy. They didn't come in a container like the other ones I bought online. They were in a plastic bag and grown in one of sponges but shipped in a box from Mt Dora, Florida.

One of my plants was Pink Lemonade and the other was Misty.

----

Kay - When do you groom your Dwarf tomatoes? Mine seem to get groomed by necessity of removing bad leaves; I just take the branch off. And usually, I see a moth fly out.

Can you post a picture of your full grown Dwarf plant after it have been groomed for Florida conditions?

ginger2778 · April 15, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zone9b

Audrey,
I tried to grow a number of dwarfs last fall but they were all but a total loss. Central Florida is a challenging place to grow vegetables, especially tomatoes and each gardener has choices to make as to how they want to attempt to grow their vegetables. Whether one is growing for someone else to consume their produce or consuming it oneself may influence the decisions made. Many here in Florida grow beautiful tomatoes some not so much. I consume a large portion of what I grow and my primary goal is to grow much of my own food. However to grow beautiful tomatoes almost certainly is going to require the use of as fungicides and pesticides. It would appear that pests can be controlled with chemicals which are not all that risky to consume. However, to me, fungicides appear to be another issue. Copper Sulfate, although allowed as a so called Organic, is something that as this point I am not prepared to spray on my garden and in turn eat the produce, but many do and that is certainly their prerogative. I try to do my best at relying on the world of plant breeders to produce varieties that have as much resistance and vigor as possible to contend with the diseases that mother nature has to offer.
Larry

I use Copper Diammonia Diacetate , but this season, I have used much more Neem/ soap spray due to TRMs.

Zone9b · April 15, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by ginger2778

I use Copper Diammonia Diacetate , but this season, I have used much more Neem/ soap spray due to TRMs.

Marsha,
I've read that copper sulfate washes off easily and some use a sticker to keep it on longer. Does Copper Daimmonia Diacetate not require a sticker or is there another advantage. I'm guessing TRMs are tomato russet mites and how do you know when you have them. I know what a tomato horn worm looks like, however, I've only seen one in my garden. Other than that I am anything but knowledge on garden pests. If there is enough of them I know what aphids are.
Larry

ginger2778 · April 15, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zone9b

Marsha,
I've read that copper sulfate washes off easily and some use a sticker to keep it on longer. Does Copper Daimmonia Diacetate not require a sticker or is there another advantage. I'm guessing TRMs are tomato russet mites and how do you know when you have them. I know what a tomato horn worm looks like, however, I've only seen one in my garden. Other than that I am anything but knowledge on garden pests. If there is enough of them I know what aphids are.
Larry

You cant see them, tomato Russet Mites that is, because the largest they get is 2/10 of a millimeter. But you can tell by the damage. Green stems start to brown, bronze color, blossoms dry up, fruit gets a woody sort of appearance to it and it turns rusty bronzish around that woody appearance. Leaves start to radiate a yellow from where they attach to the stem rather than the fungal spots, yellowing on the edges and centers of leaves. Very rapid decline. I bought 100% Neem oil, which I mix 1 Tablespoon and also a Tablespoon of organic dish soap, both go into 1 gallon water. For TRMs, you must apply at least 2 times, with 4-5 days apart so as to kill the newly hatched eggs.
Going to post this so I don't lose it, but will come back to edit and add a link about recognizing TRMs on stems and on fruit.
Try googling, but this article is pretty good:http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/o...-in-Tomato.pdf

efisakov · April 16, 2016

Marsha, thank you for posting it. Very informative.

AudreyFL · April 17, 2016

Barb - same here with dwarfs...I am removing so many diseased leaves, I end up removing the whole branch. A few I've just had to pull entirely because there was almost nothing left of the plant.

All - is there any alternative to removing entire stems of leaves once disease starts? Most common for me is what appears to be grey leaf spot. And I've been diligent with hand watering only roots, even brining pots into covered & screened patio when rain is coming. It's challenging to say the least!

Fiishergurl · April 17, 2016

So i figured out that my cucumber is Burpless Hybrid and it grows 10 inches long. The one pictured is about 2 1/2 inches and is prickly which i hope will go away. I found one set of reviews where the majority of the people said it is bitter and terrible tasting and i found another set of reviews (9 reviews total) that said it was sweet and gave it 5 stars... lol.

Anyways i am starting more seeds of the other varieties i have. I have about 10 cukes on this plant so far (its actually more than one plant) but i want the kind like Barb has where you can pick them small in 2 to 3 days.

How small do you think I can pick this one if maturity says 10 inches?

Ginny

Barb_FL · April 17, 2016

Ginny - if it is burpless, it shouldn't be bitter. If anything those types have less flavor. It is especially obvious when you are growing a different kind at the same time. I've never tasted a bitter cucumber.

I never grew that kind, but always grew Park's All Season also burpless. You can pick cucumber's any time; for a 10" cucumber, I would wait at least until 6". It will get size quickly now that it is 2.5".

Also, the more diligent you are re: picking the cucumbers, the more they will produce.

-----

Audrey - This is crazy and non-intuitive, but I use to move my plants away from big rain for fear of grey leaf. What I noticed is once it is warm out, my plants getting sun never get grey leaf and the ones on the porch get grey spots. Also, the dwarfs seem to love the rain.

I found if I just removed the leaves, within a couple of days I'm removing the branch, so just go ahead and remove the branch.

I think I generally have more bug problems than fungal problems. On the dwarfs especially, after fruit set, the new top growth always have a lot of the small aphids (or maybe it is Marsha's suck bug).

----
Practiced pruning on a Fred's Tie Dye and 2 of my Dwarf Project tomato plants.

April 14, 2016	#961
Fiishergurl Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Oak Hill, Florida Posts: 1,781	Heres my cucumber plant. Thanks for the advice. I'm going to use BT. I already have that and the neem and such. Should i try to avoid the flowers when I spray the plant? Ginny Last edited by Fiishergurl; April 14, 2016 at 07:07 PM.

April 15, 2016	#968
Barb_FL Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Indialantic, Florida Posts: 2,000	Blue Berry plants Got my 2 plants (southern variety) from Baker's Creek today. They are small but look healthy. They didn't come in a container like the other ones I bought online. They were in a plastic bag and grown in one of sponges but shipped in a box from Mt Dora, Florida. One of my plants was Pink Lemonade and the other was Misty. ---- Kay - When do you groom your Dwarf tomatoes? Mine seem to get groomed by necessity of removing bad leaves; I just take the branch off. And usually, I see a moth fly out. Can you post a picture of your full grown Dwarf plant after it have been groomed for Florida conditions?

April 16, 2016	#972
efisakov Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: NJ, zone 7 Posts: 3,162	Marsha, thank you for posting it. Very informative. __________________ Ella God comes along and says, "I think I'm going to create THE tomato!”

April 14, 2016	#962
AudreyFL Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Florida 9b Posts: 19	Barb - just a quick thank you on info for mulching. I had a feeling bark chips weren't the best way to go. Garden update - Early Girl producing beautiful tomatoes, Black Cherry is overloaded (first year, they are so good!). But Dwarf Tomato Project plants are struggling. Have lost a few due to spotting and general health issues (Rosella Purple, Sophie's Choice barely hanging on) and New a big Dwarf seems like he doesn't grow much. Kangaroo Paw Yellow fought from the beginning, lots of holes in leaves, etc. So far, Dwarf Champion is strongest, growing well, no leaf issues, very healthy and robust. Am a bit disappointed since I grew these from seed with lots of excitement but it seems that my generic box box store seeds like Patio and Rutgers are the ones who continue in great health. Wondering why DTP plants seem so prone to bugs and mildew issues? I've trimmed off bad foliage but there's just not much left of them now. Audrey - Jupiter

April 14, 2016	#964
ginger2778 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10 Posts: 9,283	Audrey, very hard to grow dwarfs here in S Fl, but it can be done. I suggest starting again in the fall, because Spr./Summer is too hot and too humid. And also suggest you trim out several of the leaves to allow for better air circulation. Less fungal problems that way. Also, getting them on a preventive regimen with a very dilute liquid copper fungicide and BT spray every 7-10 days, but also after every heavy rain will help a lot with the fungus and the leaf holes (which are usually caused by worms).

April 14, 2016	#965
kayrobbins Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Jacksonville, Fl Posts: 820	I agree with Ginger. They say dwarf tomatoes do not need pruning but for our conditions they do. The leaves can be so dense on the interior that it is hard to spray and the worms can hide from you. Once I started pruning my results have been so much better.

April 14, 2016	#966
Barb_FL Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Indialantic, Florida Posts: 2,000	Audrey, I'm so glad you brought this up re: dwarfs. My dwarfs start out looking like the pictures people post, but sure don't end up looking like them. This time I got a lot of first truss fruit, some 2nd truss, but it was rare if I got more after that. I've never had good luck with New Big Dwarf, but JPOP had major success with it. BWT - JPOPs dwarfs were beautiful though. Ginny - your Cucumber plant looks good and healthy. On the Betas and Park's All Season, once the flower is pollinated, the cuke is ready to pick in a few days. That doesn't seem to be the case with the Snows; the cuke is short and stout. Kay - Re: pickle worms; once my plant is super productive, I usually am starting another replacement. Now I'm hesitant b/c of someone posting here about fruit not setting in high heat. I really don't remember that ever being a problem; but I could have been growing Parks All Season. Bugs usually get the plants first.

April 17, 2016	#973
AudreyFL Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Florida 9b Posts: 19	Barb - same here with dwarfs...I am removing so many diseased leaves, I end up removing the whole branch. A few I've just had to pull entirely because there was almost nothing left of the plant. All - is there any alternative to removing entire stems of leaves once disease starts? Most common for me is what appears to be grey leaf spot. And I've been diligent with hand watering only roots, even brining pots into covered & screened patio when rain is coming. It's challenging to say the least!

April 17, 2016	#974
Fiishergurl Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Oak Hill, Florida Posts: 1,781	So i figured out that my cucumber is Burpless Hybrid and it grows 10 inches long. The one pictured is about 2 1/2 inches and is prickly which i hope will go away. I found one set of reviews where the majority of the people said it is bitter and terrible tasting and i found another set of reviews (9 reviews total) that said it was sweet and gave it 5 stars... lol. Anyways i am starting more seeds of the other varieties i have. I have about 10 cukes on this plant so far (its actually more than one plant) but i want the kind like Barb has where you can pick them small in 2 to 3 days. How small do you think I can pick this one if maturity says 10 inches? Ginny

April 17, 2016	#975
Barb_FL Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Indialantic, Florida Posts: 2,000	Ginny - if it is burpless, it shouldn't be bitter. If anything those types have less flavor. It is especially obvious when you are growing a different kind at the same time. I've never tasted a bitter cucumber. I never grew that kind, but always grew Park's All Season also burpless. You can pick cucumber's any time; for a 10" cucumber, I would wait at least until 6". It will get size quickly now that it is 2.5". Also, the more diligent you are re: picking the cucumbers, the more they will produce. ----- Audrey - This is crazy and non-intuitive, but I use to move my plants away from big rain for fear of grey leaf. What I noticed is once it is warm out, my plants getting sun never get grey leaf and the ones on the porch get grey spots. Also, the dwarfs seem to love the rain. I found if I just removed the leaves, within a couple of days I'm removing the branch, so just go ahead and remove the branch. I think I generally have more bug problems than fungal problems. On the dwarfs especially, after fruit set, the new top growth always have a lot of the small aphids (or maybe it is Marsha's suck bug). ---- Practiced pruning on a Fred's Tie Dye and 2 of my Dwarf Project tomato plants.