Dense Planting Illustrated - WARNING - Pic Heavy! Latest video 3/17 - transplanting - Page 7

FarmerCathy · November 6, 2007

Thanks for the info!

redcairo · January 16, 2008

I was linked to this thread from another forum. This is really fabulous information, and thank you so much (everyone but especially the OP) for going to the trouble to put all this down.

I killed seedlings apparently by leaving them on the heatmat way too long and having the light not close enough. This year I intend to have way more success and to use this rather 'bulk' method. I have a ton of old seeds and I want to just see what germinates. In case they ALL do... well this is what I'll be doing. The only thing I can't figure out is what I'm going to do with all my extra seedlings. ;-) Thanks again.

PJ

robin303 · January 22, 2008

Hhmmmmmm, I always put 2 seeds per cell so the little tap roots wont get messed up and crowded. Then I snip the weaker one. What is the success rate for transplanting putting 30 seeds per cell? I guess I lost so many trying to separate and being all thumbs that way. I do that with chives though. Sounds pretty labor intensive to separate. Just wondering.

goldpearl · February 21, 2008

Wow, this is great information. I am still worried about outside temps and I live in Texas. I'll have to try this! Thanks for posting the pics, too!
Fascinating.
I have a question. You noted you treated your eggplant and pepper plants the same way. I thought they needed to stay at the same ground level as when they sprouted and did not produce roots along the stem like tomatoes do. Do they benefit from being transplanted deeper as well? Or did I miss something?

**nctomatoman** · February 21, 2008

Not sure if they benefit, but it certainly stabilizes them when they are small and have weak central stems. They seem to like it...maybe what I've found is that it certainly doesn't hurt, and it is easier than trying to leave stem exposed upon transplanting.

ronbrew · February 23, 2008

Craig,
Are you saying that you are using a soil less medium throughout your whole process. When you transplant them do you use the same medium or do you then go into a soil based medium? I've always bought a seed starting soil but never used a soil less medium. I see your point that it probably provides more oxygen to the roots.

I also wonder if you are using any kinds of fertilizers. When I transplant I make a soil blend and I use fish based fertilizers after transplanting. I'm curious what the brand of soil less medium you use. I think it might be something worth trying.
thanks,

Ron

**nctomatoman** · February 23, 2008

I use soilless mix - typically Sungrow MetroMix 360 - for seed starting and transplant into 4 inch pots. I don't fertilize until the seedings go into their final resting place.

DonnaK-NC · February 26, 2008

Hi Craig! I'm new here but remember Carolyn and you from another forum. I don't post much but read a lot.

I understand you do not repot / separate seedlings until it's been 4 weeks? I would love to see a pic of how big they are right before moving into the 4 in pots!

I only grow about 20-30 plants each spring and have had great success with the Jiffy pellets - and then I repot when they get their 1st pair of true leaves. After seeing your pics I thought it would be fun to do it your way so I currently have a number of seedlings under lights right now, planted like yours.

Oh, I'm not too far from ya in Rowan County.

Reviewing the thread, I think I found the pics I was looking for.

Miss_Mudcat · March 5, 2008

Hi Craig,

I just wanted to stop back by and thank you again. I will be sowing my "dense" tomatoes this week for the third year now! Your information was such a wonderful inspiration and our tomato sales just keep climbing! THANK YOU!

Lisa

**nctomatoman** · March 5, 2008

Thanks, folks. Each year I grow my plants like this reinforces that it works quite well. Amazingly, I NEVER lose a seedling to damping off. Right now I have 5 flats that are getting ever increasing levels of sun....I need to take a few pictures and post this year's progress.

I figure that I am about 2 weeks away from starting to transplant! Got to clean out my garage and get it seedling and transplant activity ready!

DonnaK-NC · March 5, 2008

I've learned two new things, having started some seeds on Feb. 17. Dense planting is going great, however since I only grow about 30 total plants I will probably go back to putting just a few seeds in a cell.

But the neatest thing I did different was putting the flats outside when they where just seedlings. At first I thought, February weather will never cooperate with that but it did. Mine stayed out all day today and look fabulous. None of the damping off or other weird stuff I see some time. They look so much more healthy, they are hardened off and I haven't even transplanted to bigger containers yet. Craig, yep, great idea!

**nctomatoman** · March 6, 2008

A few shots of my seeds - these were planted Feb 15 or so, today is March 6, so you can gauge the progress.

barefootgardener · March 8, 2008

nctomatoman,
Great minds think alike. I too, for years have always started my tomato and pepper seeds the same as you, except I alway's used styrocups or milk jugs cut in half or even boxes that were deep enough to start seed in.

Overcrowding never hurt them, much to my chagrin. Even upon transplanting weeks later, they managed to survive and thrive. This mad method has served me well for years ever since the first time I decided to start my own Heirloom Tomatoes from seed. I actually didnt know any better (my ignorance), and just put as many seeds in each pot as I could and yes they came upovercrowded and yes I didnt get around to transplanting after the first true leaves appeared like I should have. And yes they were about 4 inches tall before I did. And yes I was rough with them. I turned them upside down in their pot's and banged on the bottom of the cup to loosen up, and once they were out I dropped the group onto the table to break them up and then I separated them each individually and transplanted them deeply. Yes at least I had the good sense to do that.
But you know what? They all thrived and survived with only one or two casualties of the bunch. This is the way Ive been growing Tomatoes and peppers ever since.

Good luck to you and all thoses seedlings and thanks for sharing your pictures!

bbb123 · March 15, 2008

I agree this worked great for me this year it is amazing how tough the seedlings are.

FarmerCathy · March 15, 2008

I did have a little problem with my Sungolds with this method, but I think I needed to wait a little longer before transplanting.

February 21, 2008	#94
goldpearl Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: North Texas Zone 7 Posts: 24	Wow, this is great information. I am still worried about outside temps and I live in Texas. I'll have to try this! Thanks for posting the pics, too! Fascinating. I have a question. You noted you treated your eggplant and pepper plants the same way. I thought they needed to stay at the same ground level as when they sprouted and did not produce roots along the stem like tomatoes do. Do they benefit from being transplanted deeper as well? Or did I miss something? __________________ Have a Great Day!

February 21, 2008	#95
nctomatoman Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7 Posts: 10,385	Not sure if they benefit, but it certainly stabilizes them when they are small and have weak central stems. They seem to like it...maybe what I've found is that it certainly doesn't hurt, and it is easier than trying to leave stem exposed upon transplanting. __________________ Craig

February 23, 2008	#97
nctomatoman Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7 Posts: 10,385	I use soilless mix - typically Sungrow MetroMix 360 - for seed starting and transplant into 4 inch pots. I don't fertilize until the seedings go into their final resting place. __________________ Craig

February 26, 2008	#98
DonnaK-NC Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Salisbury, NC Zone 7 Posts: 24	Hi Craig! I'm new here but remember Carolyn and you from another forum. I don't post much but read a lot. I understand you do not repot / separate seedlings until it's been 4 weeks? I would love to see a pic of how big they are right before moving into the 4 in pots! I only grow about 20-30 plants each spring and have had great success with the Jiffy pellets - and then I repot when they get their 1st pair of true leaves. After seeing your pics I thought it would be fun to do it your way so I currently have a number of seedlings under lights right now, planted like yours. Oh, I'm not too far from ya in Rowan County. Reviewing the thread, I think I found the pics I was looking for. Last edited by DonnaK-NC; February 27, 2008 at 04:51 PM. Reason: Found the answer

March 5, 2008	#99
Miss_Mudcat Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Central Georgia Posts: 366	Hi Craig, I just wanted to stop back by and thank you again. I will be sowing my "dense" tomatoes this week for the third year now! Your information was such a wonderful inspiration and our tomato sales just keep climbing! THANK YOU! Lisa __________________ Farmers don't wear watches; they work until the job is done!

November 6, 2007	#91
FarmerCathy Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Carmichael, CA Posts: 42	Thanks for the info!

January 16, 2008	#92
redcairo Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: NE OK Z6A Posts: 1	I was linked to this thread from another forum. This is really fabulous information, and thank you so much (everyone but especially the OP) for going to the trouble to put all this down. I killed seedlings apparently by leaving them on the heatmat way too long and having the light not close enough. This year I intend to have way more success and to use this rather 'bulk' method. I have a ton of old seeds and I want to just see what germinates. In case they ALL do... well this is what I'll be doing. The only thing I can't figure out is what I'm going to do with all my extra seedlings. ;-) Thanks again. PJ

January 22, 2008	#93
robin303 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Austin, TX Zone 8b Posts: 531	Hhmmmmmm, I always put 2 seeds per cell so the little tap roots wont get messed up and crowded. Then I snip the weaker one. What is the success rate for transplanting putting 30 seeds per cell? I guess I lost so many trying to separate and being all thumbs that way. I do that with chives though. Sounds pretty labor intensive to separate. Just wondering.

February 23, 2008	#96
ronbrew Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bay Area California Posts: 23	Craig, Are you saying that you are using a soil less medium throughout your whole process. When you transplant them do you use the same medium or do you then go into a soil based medium? I've always bought a seed starting soil but never used a soil less medium. I see your point that it probably provides more oxygen to the roots. I also wonder if you are using any kinds of fertilizers. When I transplant I make a soil blend and I use fish based fertilizers after transplanting. I'm curious what the brand of soil less medium you use. I think it might be something worth trying. thanks, Ron

March 5, 2008	#100
nctomatoman Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7 Posts: 10,385	Thanks, folks. Each year I grow my plants like this reinforces that it works quite well. Amazingly, I NEVER lose a seedling to damping off. Right now I have 5 flats that are getting ever increasing levels of sun....I need to take a few pictures and post this year's progress. I figure that I am about 2 weeks away from starting to transplant! Got to clean out my garage and get it seedling and transplant activity ready! __________________ Craig

March 5, 2008	#101
DonnaK-NC Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Salisbury, NC Zone 7 Posts: 24	I've learned two new things, having started some seeds on Feb. 17. Dense planting is going great, however since I only grow about 30 total plants I will probably go back to putting just a few seeds in a cell. But the neatest thing I did different was putting the flats outside when they where just seedlings. At first I thought, February weather will never cooperate with that but it did. Mine stayed out all day today and look fabulous. None of the damping off or other weird stuff I see some time. They look so much more healthy, they are hardened off and I haven't even transplanted to bigger containers yet. Craig, yep, great idea!

March 8, 2008	#103
barefootgardener Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Michigan Zone 4b Posts: 1,291	nctomatoman, Great minds think alike. I too, for years have always started my tomato and pepper seeds the same as you, except I alway's used styrocups or milk jugs cut in half or even boxes that were deep enough to start seed in. Overcrowding never hurt them, much to my chagrin. Even upon transplanting weeks later, they managed to survive and thrive. This mad method has served me well for years ever since the first time I decided to start my own Heirloom Tomatoes from seed. I actually didnt know any better (my ignorance), and just put as many seeds in each pot as I could and yes they came upovercrowded and yes I didnt get around to transplanting after the first true leaves appeared like I should have. And yes they were about 4 inches tall before I did. And yes I was rough with them. I turned them upside down in their pot's and banged on the bottom of the cup to loosen up, and once they were out I dropped the group onto the table to break them up and then I separated them each individually and transplanted them deeply. Yes at least I had the good sense to do that. But you know what? They all thrived and survived with only one or two casualties of the bunch. This is the way Ive been growing Tomatoes and peppers ever since. Good luck to you and all thoses seedlings and thanks for sharing your pictures!

March 15, 2008	#104
bbb123 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: ny Posts: 72	I agree this worked great for me this year it is amazing how tough the seedlings are. __________________ NY

March 15, 2008	#105
FarmerCathy Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Carmichael, CA Posts: 42	I did have a little problem with my Sungolds with this method, but I think I needed to wait a little longer before transplanting.