New High Tunnel - Page 8

Cole_Robbie · February 8, 2016

Menard's sells guy wire:

http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...25420272972342

And loop the ends together with a clamp like this, right?
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...45070526775110

Worth1 · February 8, 2016

Here is a drawing.
The lines at angles are your wires rope chains cables or what ever.
Worth

Cole Greenhouse cable force.r.jpg

Worth1 · February 8, 2016

You could use that it would be strong as all get out.
Use two of the cable clamps at each loop.
I can braid loops/eyes in the stuff.
If you want to get fancy you can get small turnbuckles.

Worth

Starlight · February 10, 2016

Nice looking new tunnel your building. Sure will be something to see when you finish it. : )

Besides the bracing, how do you plan to keep the snow load off. I know you said you would have your step dad go out and clean it, good idea, but I tend to agree with Helmann's that as that snow melts and refreezes that it will stick and not slide down. 17' that is along way up and a whole lot of room in a gh that size to try and heat.

Just out of curiosity, have you figured about what it would cost to cover your new tunnel yet?

What do you call them braces on the one pic that have the flat ends to them?

Cole_Robbie · February 10, 2016

Thanks. Plastic, just for one layer, is going to run about $800-900. I want the opaque stuff that is on my current high tunnel. "Infrared control" is how the manufacturer terms it. It will also have the condensation control feature, which makes water run down the inside instead of dripping on the plants.

Right now, I'm thinking five x-trusses total, on each end rafter and then every fourth one. Guy wires can cross in an X over each untrussed span.

As for the short pieces in those trussed arches...idk what they are called. They look like struts off a car suspension to me.

Huge snowfalls are rare for my area. Last winter was a bad one for ice storms, but I've had almost zero snow this year. A foot of snow falling here should be a once every 10-15 year event.

BigVanVader · February 10, 2016

Quote:

Plastic, just for one layer, is going to run about $800-900

Dang, that is expensive!

Worth1 · February 10, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigVanVader

Dang, that is expensive!

I know that is why I haven't built one I'm holding out for glass.

Worth

PureHarvest · February 10, 2016

This stuff?

http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies...oductId=367416

Cole_Robbie · February 10, 2016

http://www.warpbros.com/flex-o-glass/gnhse.html
https://www.hummert.com/product-deta...ensate-control

My first greenhouse has the clear Sunmaster film that Farmtek sells. It has help up fairly well. The seams are a little weak. I'm going into year 5 with it. In early spring, when raising starter plants, I need the extra warming effect of the clear film. But by early June when the temps hit the 90's, the clear film is misery to be under, for people or plants.

PureHarvest · February 10, 2016

I meant to ask the other day what you meant by seams.
Where the wiggle wire locks it into the channel?

Cole_Robbie · February 10, 2016

When they manufacture greenhouse plastics, it's done in rolls that are, I'd guess 10-12' or so wide. Then to make wider widths, they heat-seam it together. My 20' plastic has two seams going down it longways, one on each side. That's the weak part of the plastic. It comes apart at the seams first, long before wearing any other place. I could probably just run 2x4s down those seams to hold them together and get another few years out of my plastic.

PureHarvest · February 10, 2016

Gotcha. Never noticed.
I always replaced before I had that issue, so my attention was never drawn to it.

AKmark · February 13, 2016

All of my greenhouses have two layers of 6 mil greenhouse cover, the key is a poof fan to inflate the layers. This doubles R value and makes them nearly indestructible against snow and high winds. I live in an area where we have several severe wind storms every year, some are around 100 mile an hour wind. After several years I am still shocked to have never lost a top.

Cole_Robbie · February 13, 2016

I've seen pics of an Amish design. It was a big funnel mounted like a weather vane that would spin to catch the wind, then that air was piped by dryer hose to inflate the two layers. When a strong gust of wind hit, the plastic would inflate the tightest, making it stronger when the wind was stronger. It looked like a brilliant idea.

Hellmanns · February 13, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie

I've seen pics of an Amish design. It was a big funnel mounted like a weather vane that would spin to catch the wind, then that air was piped by dryer hose to inflate the two layers. When a strong gust of wind hit, the plastic would inflate the tightest, making it stronger when the wind was stronger. It looked like a brilliant idea.

Got any pics or links? Sounds interesting..

February 8, 2016	#106
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	Menard's sells guy wire: http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...25420272972342 And loop the ends together with a clamp like this, right? http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...45070526775110

February 8, 2016	#107
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Here is a drawing. The lines at angles are your wires rope chains cables or what ever. Worth Cole Greenhouse cable force.r.jpg

February 8, 2016	#108
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	You could use that it would be strong as all get out. Use two of the cable clamps at each loop. I can braid loops/eyes in the stuff. If you want to get fancy you can get small turnbuckles. Worth

February 10, 2016	#109
Starlight Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: AL Posts: 1,993	Nice looking new tunnel your building. Sure will be something to see when you finish it. : ) Besides the bracing, how do you plan to keep the snow load off. I know you said you would have your step dad go out and clean it, good idea, but I tend to agree with Helmann's that as that snow melts and refreezes that it will stick and not slide down. 17' that is along way up and a whole lot of room in a gh that size to try and heat. Just out of curiosity, have you figured about what it would cost to cover your new tunnel yet? What do you call them braces on the one pic that have the flat ends to them?

February 10, 2016	#110
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	Thanks. Plastic, just for one layer, is going to run about $800-900. I want the opaque stuff that is on my current high tunnel. "Infrared control" is how the manufacturer terms it. It will also have the condensation control feature, which makes water run down the inside instead of dripping on the plants. Right now, I'm thinking five x-trusses total, on each end rafter and then every fourth one. Guy wires can cross in an X over each untrussed span. As for the short pieces in those trussed arches...idk what they are called. They look like struts off a car suspension to me. Huge snowfalls are rare for my area. Last winter was a bad one for ice storms, but I've had almost zero snow this year. A foot of snow falling here should be a once every 10-15 year event.

February 10, 2016	#113
PureHarvest Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b Posts: 1,369	This stuff? http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies...oductId=367416

February 10, 2016	#114
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	http://www.warpbros.com/flex-o-glass/gnhse.html https://www.hummert.com/product-deta...ensate-control My first greenhouse has the clear Sunmaster film that Farmtek sells. It has help up fairly well. The seams are a little weak. I'm going into year 5 with it. In early spring, when raising starter plants, I need the extra warming effect of the clear film. But by early June when the temps hit the 90's, the clear film is misery to be under, for people or plants.

February 10, 2016	#115
PureHarvest Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b Posts: 1,369	I meant to ask the other day what you meant by seams. Where the wiggle wire locks it into the channel?

February 10, 2016	#116
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	When they manufacture greenhouse plastics, it's done in rolls that are, I'd guess 10-12' or so wide. Then to make wider widths, they heat-seam it together. My 20' plastic has two seams going down it longways, one on each side. That's the weak part of the plastic. It comes apart at the seams first, long before wearing any other place. I could probably just run 2x4s down those seams to hold them together and get another few years out of my plastic.

February 10, 2016	#117
PureHarvest Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b Posts: 1,369	Gotcha. Never noticed. I always replaced before I had that issue, so my attention was never drawn to it.

February 13, 2016	#118
AKmark Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Wasilla Alaska Posts: 2,010	All of my greenhouses have two layers of 6 mil greenhouse cover, the key is a poof fan to inflate the layers. This doubles R value and makes them nearly indestructible against snow and high winds. I live in an area where we have several severe wind storms every year, some are around 100 mile an hour wind. After several years I am still shocked to have never lost a top.

February 13, 2016	#119
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	I've seen pics of an Amish design. It was a big funnel mounted like a weather vane that would spin to catch the wind, then that air was piped by dryer hose to inflate the two layers. When a strong gust of wind hit, the plastic would inflate the tightest, making it stronger when the wind was stronger. It looked like a brilliant idea.