Irrigation thread. - Page 8

dice · June 11, 2012

You could wrap the black irrigation pipe with white vinyl tape,
so it will stay cooler (reflecting a lot of sunlight). First www hit
when searching for "vinyl tape" "2-mil":
http://www.tapebrothers.com/Tape-Bro...t421wh2x10.htm

Worth1 · June 12, 2012

You could get the foam rubber insulation tubes for pipe and put it on the main line.
Just a thought.

Worth

Worth1 · June 16, 2012

Here is how I am tying into my main water line.
I have everything pre-assembled so when I get ready to connect it to the main line it will take a minimum of time.

I have also taken the time to put in a new meter nipple and better shut off valves.
The one that is on the water line now is cheap, old, wont shut off and is very restrictive.

Attachment 25368

These I ordered today.

This will go on so I dont have to worry about fertilizer injection any place I want to install it.
It is the reduced pressure zone assembly.

I purchased a freeze protection drain and filter to protect all of this expensive stuff against freezing and trash in the back flow prevention.

Once they come in I will get a true GPM reading and start to design the system.

Worth

Fat Charlie · June 18, 2012

I just cobbled my system together over the weekend and posted the whole thing here:

Finally got my SIPs and AWS up and running!

Jaysan · June 25, 2012

I installed a drip kit in my raised bed and in 15 containers using the shrubbler fittings.
Also will use a simple timer to water when I get up in the early AM before work.

Looks to work really well.

Farmette · June 29, 2012

I have used drip irrigation in the past, a system with poly tube and long thin whiplike tubes coming off of that. Now I have seen another system where the poly tube is run down the length of the bed with individual coils and drip emitters spaced so that each tomato plant gets watered individually. The question is, do you think that one system is preferable to the other. If so, why? Thanks for the input!

Worth1 · June 30, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farmette

I have used drip irrigation in the past, a system with poly tube and long thin whiplike tubes coming off of that. Now I have seen another system where the poly tube is run down the length of the bed with individual coils and drip emitters spaced so that each tomato plant gets watered individually. The question is, do you think that one system is preferable to the other. If so, why? Thanks for the input!

So far I like the brown drip line for rows but the single emitters would be good for planters and single trees.

Worth

Jaysan · June 30, 2012

I can't speak to the other type system but especially for containers I like the shrubblers because they come on their own spike that you just stick in the container.

In my raised be I did the same, running one large line between both rows and running the smaller line and shrubbler spike to each plant.

Taking them up and storing them while trying to keep them orderly might be "interesting" though.

Farmette · July 6, 2012

I am planning to set up a 2 zone drip irrigation system in my garden which is @50 ft. from my house. I had planned on using 2 hoses, but am now wondering if I need to bury the lines out to the garden and if so what type of hose/pipe I should use based on climate and the fact that my house is on a slight incline from the garden.

Cole_Robbie · July 6, 2012

Burying a water line would be more about convenience, because you wouldn't have to look at the hose or move it when you mow. Use PVC pipe if you bury it. It's not a big deal if you have a trencher. Try to get it far enough underground so that it won't freeze. But if you're going to do all of that work, you might as well plumb into the supply line and install a hydrant in your garden.

Worth1 · July 6, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farmette

I am planning to set up a 2 zone drip irrigation system in my garden which is @50 ft. from my house. I had planned on using 2 hoses, but am now wondering if I need to bury the lines out to the garden and if so what type of hose/pipe I should use based on climate and the fact that my house is on a slight incline from the garden.

Don't read too much into my sometimes complicated posts on hydraulics.

Even if your slight slope was at a 45 degree angle. (Not a Slight Slope)
At 50 feet you would only lose about 10.8 PSI.

Not enough to even worry about for a drip system.

I would guess your slight slope will only lose around 1 to 2 PSI at 50 feet.
If you use PVC use sch 40, not the thin stuff.
If you bury it go below the frost line.
Any heavy duty 3/4 hose will work fine above ground, just roll it up and store it at the end of the year.

Feel free to ask as many questions as you want here or a PM.

Worth

Farmette · July 7, 2012

Thanks much to all of you! I just wish I had started this sooner as I sure could have used the drip system during our current heat wave.

gardenhappy · August 2, 2012

We are just getting our irrigation system parts ready now for our fall/winter season.
Have a question,my hubby wants to put cardboard down and build the system on top of that then add ,1' of leaf mold and then1 1/2' of organic dirt on top of that for our inside beds 4'8 and then other size 4'x50' on out sides of the new fall/winter gardens.
The path ways will be either coastal hay or cedar finely ground chips(we have tons of cockroaches in our area in all leaves and yards,cedar repels them organically).
Will this work ? the reason is to draw roots deep into the soil away from our heat here in zone 9 Florida and then warmth in our winter(Dec-jan)we have been as low as 17 for a few hours,most of the time lowest is 30's.This only last about 2 weeks in January off and on for a few hours.We will be using frost balnkets during this time.
so what do you who know think,low ground to install,middle or on top?
He then has a 9 zone and a auto timer these beds will be on to give each bed what it needs.
The garden in total is 40x50 in full sun.We are drawing the water from a pond,system is hooking right up to the pump.Each bed will have it's own head.He ahs installed several irrigations systems so he has that down ,just what depth to build beds on we are wondering?

Cole_Robbie · August 2, 2012

It will work fine until it clogs. If you have never had a clog before, maybe that's a non-issue. The higher the pressure of your water, the less likely it is to clog. But pond water is typically delivered at a lower pressure. Obviously, you will filter it, but it still won't be perfectly free of particulate matter.

I can bury drip tape a foot deep in heavy clay and fertigate with molasses all summer without the system clogging, but only because it runs off city water. I have to put a pressure regulator on it set to about 10 psi. If I was running a low-pressure system, I would be worried that it would clog up on me, and then I'd never be able to find the clog without digging everything up.

gardenhappy · August 2, 2012

We do have our own well over there .Guess get the water straight from the well and all will be o.k.? I just worry we should put the system 1/2 way in the beds.but my hubby is a pretty sharp man so If you and him think this will work,hey,what do i know about water systems?Just wanted to see before i have regrets not asking later.Ya,my brother irrigates off filtered pond water also and he get's cloggs every once in a while but his system is high in the air over the fields. Wanted the benifits of pond water but well water will do the job.Thanks for taking the time to reply.

June 11, 2012	#106
dice Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: PNW Posts: 4,743	You could wrap the black irrigation pipe with white vinyl tape, so it will stay cooler (reflecting a lot of sunlight). First www hit when searching for "vinyl tape" "2-mil": http://www.tapebrothers.com/Tape-Bro...t421wh2x10.htm __________________ -- alias

June 16, 2012	#108
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Here is how I am tying into my main water line. I have everything pre-assembled so when I get ready to connect it to the main line it will take a minimum of time. I have also taken the time to put in a new meter nipple and better shut off valves. The one that is on the water line now is cheap, old, wont shut off and is very restrictive. Attachment 25368 These I ordered today. This will go on so I dont have to worry about fertilizer injection any place I want to install it. It is the reduced pressure zone assembly. I purchased a freeze protection drain and filter to protect all of this expensive stuff against freezing and trash in the back flow prevention. Once they come in I will get a true GPM reading and start to design the system. Worth Last edited by Worth1; November 17, 2012 at 06:42 PM.

June 12, 2012	#107
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	You could get the foam rubber insulation tubes for pipe and put it on the main line. Just a thought. Worth

June 18, 2012	#109
Fat Charlie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: NewHampshire Zone 5a Posts: 83	I just cobbled my system together over the weekend and posted the whole thing here: Finally got my SIPs and AWS up and running!

June 25, 2012	#110
Jaysan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 167	I installed a drip kit in my raised bed and in 15 containers using the shrubbler fittings. Also will use a simple timer to water when I get up in the early AM before work. Looks to work really well.

June 29, 2012	#111
Farmette Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2009 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 985	I have used drip irrigation in the past, a system with poly tube and long thin whiplike tubes coming off of that. Now I have seen another system where the poly tube is run down the length of the bed with individual coils and drip emitters spaced so that each tomato plant gets watered individually. The question is, do you think that one system is preferable to the other. If so, why? Thanks for the input!

June 30, 2012	#113
Jaysan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 167	I can't speak to the other type system but especially for containers I like the shrubblers because they come on their own spike that you just stick in the container. In my raised be I did the same, running one large line between both rows and running the smaller line and shrubbler spike to each plant. Taking them up and storing them while trying to keep them orderly might be "interesting" though.

July 6, 2012	#114
Farmette Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2009 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 985	I am planning to set up a 2 zone drip irrigation system in my garden which is @50 ft. from my house. I had planned on using 2 hoses, but am now wondering if I need to bury the lines out to the garden and if so what type of hose/pipe I should use based on climate and the fact that my house is on a slight incline from the garden.

July 6, 2012	#115
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	Burying a water line would be more about convenience, because you wouldn't have to look at the hose or move it when you mow. Use PVC pipe if you bury it. It's not a big deal if you have a trencher. Try to get it far enough underground so that it won't freeze. But if you're going to do all of that work, you might as well plumb into the supply line and install a hydrant in your garden.

July 7, 2012	#117
Farmette Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2009 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 985	Thanks much to all of you! I just wish I had started this sooner as I sure could have used the drip system during our current heat wave.

August 2, 2012	#118
gardenhappy Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: PLANT CITY Posts: 255	We are just getting our irrigation system parts ready now for our fall/winter season. Have a question,my hubby wants to put cardboard down and build the system on top of that then add ,1' of leaf mold and then1 1/2' of organic dirt on top of that for our inside beds 4'8 and then other size 4'x50' on out sides of the new fall/winter gardens. The path ways will be either coastal hay or cedar finely ground chips(we have tons of cockroaches in our area in all leaves and yards,cedar repels them organically). Will this work ? the reason is to draw roots deep into the soil away from our heat here in zone 9 Florida and then warmth in our winter(Dec-jan)we have been as low as 17 for a few hours,most of the time lowest is 30's.This only last about 2 weeks in January off and on for a few hours.We will be using frost balnkets during this time. so what do you who know think,low ground to install,middle or on top? He then has a 9 zone and a auto timer these beds will be on to give each bed what it needs. The garden in total is 40x50 in full sun.We are drawing the water from a pond,system is hooking right up to the pump.Each bed will have it's own head.He ahs installed several irrigations systems so he has that down ,just what depth to build beds on we are wondering?

August 2, 2012	#119
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	It will work fine until it clogs. If you have never had a clog before, maybe that's a non-issue. The higher the pressure of your water, the less likely it is to clog. But pond water is typically delivered at a lower pressure. Obviously, you will filter it, but it still won't be perfectly free of particulate matter. I can bury drip tape a foot deep in heavy clay and fertigate with molasses all summer without the system clogging, but only because it runs off city water. I have to put a pressure regulator on it set to about 10 psi. If I was running a low-pressure system, I would be worried that it would clog up on me, and then I'd never be able to find the clog without digging everything up.

August 2, 2012	#120
gardenhappy Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: PLANT CITY Posts: 255	We do have our own well over there .Guess get the water straight from the well and all will be o.k.? I just worry we should put the system 1/2 way in the beds.but my hubby is a pretty sharp man so If you and him think this will work,hey,what do i know about water systems?Just wanted to see before i have regrets not asking later.Ya,my brother irrigates off filtered pond water also and he get's cloggs every once in a while but his system is high in the air over the fields. Wanted the benifits of pond water but well water will do the job.Thanks for taking the time to reply.