April 26, 2014 | #106 |
Tomatovillian™
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Location: Zone 5B Illinois
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I noticed that one of my pepper plants had leaves that were starting to shrivel. There is something on the under side of the leaf. Anyone know what this is?
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Andrea |
April 28, 2014 | #107 |
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? anyone...from what I am seeing on internet, maybe powdery mildew?
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Andrea |
April 28, 2014 | #108 |
Tomatovillian™
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Location: Cheektowaga, NY
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I've never had powdery mildew on pepper but it sort of looks like it. Are these in a greenhouse?
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April 28, 2014 | #109 |
Tomatovillian™
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Location: Zone 5B Illinois
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No but they are in a contained room with circulation. Maybe the humidity got too high. I opened the door today.
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Andrea |
April 28, 2014 | #110 |
Tomatovillian™
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Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
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Yeah it looks like mildew. Keep it away from the other plants. Treat it with a fungicide for mildew.
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April 28, 2014 | #111 |
Tomatovillian™
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I just sprayed everything with a mixture: actinovate, exel lg and biobizz
Will this take care of it?
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Andrea |
April 28, 2014 | #112 | |
Tomatovillian™
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Quote:
Sulfur can work, it can't hurt to spray with a solution of hydrogen peroxide. You can also try milk. 1 part milk to 9 parts water. Many inorganic fungicides work. This is definitely powdery mildew, looking into it. Common symptom is seen only on the bottom of the leaves. Can be on top, but mostly bottom. Looks like you have it. If treatment doesn't work and you don't want to use big guns destroy plant. Your peppers otherwise look great! Hey I culled out 9 tomato plants this season. Stuff happens. Treat other peppers weekly at this point. It's around, and so you have to prevent it. |
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April 28, 2014 | #113 |
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Okay,
Im thinking about just tossing the affected plant. hopefully it hasnt spread to the others yet.
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Andrea |
April 28, 2014 | #114 | |
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Quote:
Using Excel LG against a true fungus like Powdery Mildew is a waste of time. It is only effective against Oomycetes pathogens which are not true fungi—like Downy Mildews. Other fungicides against Powdery Mildew can be Sulfur, Potassium Bicarbonate (Greencure for example) , or Neem Oil. |
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April 28, 2014 | #115 |
Tomatovillian™
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For me it is better to be safe than sorry. Its always near impossible for me to toss a plant i have been nurturing however it is better to lose one plant than several. You could also quarantine the plant until the fungus subsides.
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April 28, 2014 | #116 | |
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Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
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Quote:
I would want to learn from the experience and see what works. What if next year all your plants get it? Well you would know exactly what to do at least! Even the big guns. I have many big gun fungicides because I grow fruit trees, many can be used on peppers too. It could be worse it could be downy mildew, now that mildew is a serious threat. Each plant is different. I had powdery mildew on cucumbers, but it's a different species. It killed both my plants, so I now treat everything with organic fungicides as a preventative. Except my trees that even get the big guns as preventatives. Brown rot is not to be toyed with. Many tree fungus once in slowly kill the tree. Waiting years for fruits is not fun only to lose your tree right before your first harvest. Not cool. This year all my peach tree buds were lost to the double digit below zero temps. I still spray them as you don't want any fungus to set in and wait till next year, they most certainly will. So trees are getting full fungal treatment. |
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April 29, 2014 | #117 |
Tomatovillian™
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Wow, thanks for all the info.
i will check the leaves after I sprayed them. What should I spray them with now? It doesn't have to be organic.
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Andrea |
April 29, 2014 | #118 |
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It's a bummer that Lime-Sulfur has be taken off the market. it was organic and safe. Immunox will work well. It should kill it. Heavy gun! You could try a sulfur dust too, it may knock it back, but not remove it. Not sure? it may work too. I still have one bottle of Lime-Sulfur. But I'm going to buy Immunox too. My peppers are planted out now, and it rained all day.
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April 29, 2014 | #119 |
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Here are a couple of pictures of the bottom of the leaves after I sprayed them on Saturday...
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Andrea |
April 29, 2014 | #120 |
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OK, wow, looks good, but it may come back. I would remove the severely damaged leaves as they don't stand a chance and may invite reinfection. It's hard to deal with these problems. Often the spray will knock it down, but not out and slowly the plant becomes reinfected. The next spraying may not work as well. Very common. Use another product.
Sulfur dust is cheap. I still see some mildew, the mildew cells that are resistant no doubt. |
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