May 10, 2011 | #121 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 2
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Composted Topsoil?
I visited my local nursery chain store, Star Nursery, yesterday, and bought a few 2 CF bags of their "Vegetable and Herb Growing Media" to get me started on my first SWC (5 gallon bucket based). One bag was $12. I have the makings of 6 Earthtainers. The women at the nursery told me that their composted topsoil will work just as well, with the addition of the Perlite and bark, as the bagged stuff. I'm guessing you disagree? I remember seeing a recipe for making your own growing media for SWC's, but can't seem to find it.
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May 10, 2011 | #122 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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bman,
Far be it from me to tell you what WON'T work - - all I can do is to tell you what WILL work. And what WILL work is a soiless mix of peat based Potting Mix, Microbark, and Perlite in the 3:2:1 Combo Mix. Let us know how your Top Soil based Mix works for you. In Las Vegas where it is hot and dry, maybe what the women told you will do the job in your climate. Raybo |
May 12, 2011 | #123 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: California
Posts: 14
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Thanks, Ray. Did you just pour it at the base of the plant or do you need to pour it so that you drench the entire surface of the 'tainer?
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May 12, 2011 | #124 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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I simply pour it around the base of the plant where the "X" was cut in the moisture barrier to make the original planting. This should spread out the Clearex drench about 6 inches from the stem in all directions.
Raybo |
May 20, 2011 | #125 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: California
Posts: 14
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I am finishing up 4 earthtainers that I plan to load up and plant this weekend. I have a couple of last questions.
Will the 3:2:1 mix work with Miracle Grow or only with the higher-end grow media? I notice that the AWS instructions indicate that the filler tube needs to be cut down to 16" -- is there a way to switch to the AWS mid-season -- or if I start out with the 20" filler tube do I need to stick with it until the next growing season? Thanks, Edward |
May 20, 2011 | #126 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Edward,
Congrats on the EarthTainer build! The 3:2:1 Combo Mix is intended for most folks who use the Miracle-Gro Potting Mix (WITHOUT) Moisture Control. If you elect to use the more expensive Pro-Mix BX or Sunshine Mix #4 which both contain more Perlite to begin with (about 14%), then back off the added Perlite a bit to a 3:2:0.75 ratio. For the AWS addition later in the Season, you can still use the original filler tube length of 20 inches, but would then need to lengthen the internal clear sensor tube by another 4 inches to make up for this. Make sense? Raybo |
May 20, 2011 | #127 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: California
Posts: 14
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Makes sense. Thanks.
Edward |
May 22, 2011 | #128 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: California
Posts: 14
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Quote:
This might be good information to add to the construction guide. The current guide has one cutting the fabric to just about the size of the bottom of the container. I cut the fabric a couple of inches larger than recommended. Now, I wonder whether I should re-cut them even larger. What do you think? Do you cut a hole in the fabric for the pipe or just fold/bunch the fabric around the pipe? Thanks, Edward |
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May 22, 2011 | #129 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Edward,
I have to find a good "balance" in the Guide to not make it too complicated - yet be effective. The "simple" approach is as I have in the Guide to cut the fabric just large enough to cover the base area. This will inhibit most of the roots from going down in to the reservoir. If you *really* want to minimize them, run the fabric up the side walls a bit. But then this necessitates cutting a slit in the fabric pieces for the filler tube (another complication and step). So you see my dilemma in trying to keep the Guide simple, yet have it effective for 95% of the Builders. Raybo |
May 23, 2011 | #130 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: California
Posts: 14
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That makes sense, Ray. When using a larger piece of fabric, do you lay it on the bottom and mark the position where the hole for the tube is and then cut an X so that the fabric will slide over the tube?
Does anyone know a source of Pea Fence other than Gurney's. I can't find it locally and it has been close to a month since I ordered mine -- apparently they are backordered by quite a bit. |
May 24, 2011 | #131 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 14
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Has anyone considered the possibility of scaling this up to the size of a small raised bed? 3'x5' or so?
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May 24, 2011 | #132 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So. Illinois (6a)
Posts: 147
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May 24, 2011 | #133 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tucson
Posts: 659
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I saw a 100 gallon rubbermaid storage container, I almost bought 2 to do just that!
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May 24, 2011 | #134 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: MD
Posts: 1
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I have a question about the trellis netting.
Is there any reason why one couldn't use nylon string tied to the pea fence at 7inch intervals both the long and short way? Thanks in advance!! |
May 24, 2011 | #135 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 14
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A self watering raised bed... just off the top of my head i'm thinking dig out 6" - 8" of soil, line it with a pond liner, and build a raised bed 18" high above it. The bottom of the bed would need boards with holes drilled or something to hold the soil up.
It seems like a lot of work... maybe soaker hoses would be better. |
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