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Old August 2, 2012   #121
Cole_Robbie
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As long as the top part gets wet initially for the plants to get started, I would think that would be ok. I would guess that the roots would break through the wet cardboard pretty easily. Obviously, I haven't tried it to tell you for sure.

Does your well water have sediment? That can make clogs, too. I'm guessing you are familiar with the mineral content of the water and accustomed to using it for plants. And of course if it's hard enough, that can affect the fertilizer. I would just be worried about a system with a part that can fail that I can't access to fix.

I just noticed that you're in Plant City. I went to the University of Tampa and would always drive to Plant City for the strawberries. I like that area of the country a lot.
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Old August 2, 2012   #122
gardenhappy
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Yes,Plant City is a beautiful farm country area.We live between plant City and Tampa.Best of both worlds.
Yes, sediment is a problem here.Iron water in our area,you have to use filters.This well tho,seems pretty clean,no Iron slime and boy can you see it when it's in the well,clogs hoses,pipes, sprinklers,can't even use soaker hoses,plugs them right up!
We have that in the well at the house but this well is in the back of our property and no signs of it so far .
Yes,all the beds we have built so far the cardboards is gone in one growing season.It's so hot and humid here that compost breaks down really fast to.Between heat,humidity,and bugs,nothing stays around here long!
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Old August 3, 2012   #123
dice
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Reverse osmosis water is pretty much clog-proof. That
might be over budget, though, for an irrigation setup.
What about a first stage sand filter? (I do not know if
farmers actually use these, it just intuitively seems like
it would work without having to change filters on a regular
schedule. Bacteria would chew up organic particulates
rather quickly in a hot climate.)
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Last edited by dice; August 6, 2012 at 10:46 PM. Reason: long lines, sp
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Old August 3, 2012   #124
gardenhappy
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That's what our house well is set up on ,we have a filter system out side the house then inside also.We just got this stuff you put into your well for the Iron but we can't use any water for 3 days after so have to wait till we're gone for a few days.I'll have to check into a sand filter system.My main concern with the whole set up is what depth to put the irrigation pipes at bottom on the cardboard,middle,or top.My hubby does a really good job on keeping clogs under control so far that has not been an issue for us.
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Old August 3, 2012   #125
Worth1
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I would put it on top.

Worth
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Old August 4, 2012   #126
Keger
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Hi Worth,

If I am doing about 3 acres of tomatoes, could you advise on the negative of using impact sprinklers on t0posts? I can do that inexpesively, all the drip stuff gets crazy and them I would have to take it all up so I could till for the next crop.

Can watering from above really be as bad as I have heard?
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Old August 4, 2012   #127
Worth1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keger View Post
Hi Worth,

If I am doing about 3 acres of tomatoes, could you advise on the negative of using impact sprinklers on t0posts? I can do that inexpesively, all the drip stuff gets crazy and them I would have to take it all up so I could till for the next crop.

Can watering from above really be as bad as I have heard?

Yes it can.
I am not to be confused with an environmentalist, I am a conservationist.

The former wants to do nothing to the environment (sometimes sometimes not) the latter such as myself wants to manage the earth in a way that mankind, soil, critters and the plants can thrive and in turn support each other.
In this way we make the Garden of Edan for our selves.

The negative is about 3 fold and is hard to explain by a simple man such as myself, but I surly will try.

Overhead irrigation causes excess evaporation which in turn causes----.
Excess water usage.
Over the long run increased soil salinity.
And for tomatoes disease problems.
Now bare in mind some crops it is not practical to run drip, wheat is one I would have a hard time justifying.
The problem is not acute but chronic.
In other words it may not effect you but later on down the road it can and will.

Some places have a salt layer such as in Australia.
This table is close to the surface and the soil being saturated causes the salt to grow to the surface.
Thus ruining the soil for farming.
Many places this has ruined farmland in 100 years or less.
Irrigation of any sort in many places is a double edged sword.
They have an underground drip line I wish folks would look into.
No water on top to evaporate if adjusted properly.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...O4SU9g&cad=rja

Worth

Last edited by Worth1; August 4, 2012 at 09:49 PM.
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Old August 5, 2012   #128
Cole_Robbie
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Old August 5, 2012   #129
Keger
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OK, have you come across anything practical, or cool even ( you know how that is), that makes sense for a smal operation? I like what you say, just looking at all aspects, expenses included.
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Old August 5, 2012   #130
Worth1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keger View Post
OK, have you come across anything practical, or cool even ( you know how that is), that makes sense for a smal operation? I like what you say, just looking at all aspects, expenses included.

I dont know, I do know how you feel about expense and removeing drip line every year.
It would be hard to do.

Even if you did go with the overhead my main concern for you would be disease.

Is ditch irrigation and option?
I dont know what your water supply is or how much available water you have.
Where you live the terrain is nice and flat and the soil is rich, would this be an option.

Another problem would be fire ants, they love water.
I used to live in Angleton not 30 or so miles from you and the fire ants were horrible.

One last word, U asked what the problems with over head were and I answered with my opinion.
From now on in this discussion I wont sour it with more sermons on soil salinity.
We want to get your tomatoes waterd in the most economical way with the least amount of impact on your back and your pocket book.

Worth
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Old August 5, 2012   #131
Keger
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Dont misunderstand Worth, all opinion is great with me, no worries. I appreciate it. We have a well, I think that is a good water source.

Just looking for the best way to go.
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Old August 11, 2012   #132
harveyc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Worth1 View Post
They have an underground drip line I wish folks would look into.
No water on top to evaporate if adjusted properly.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...O4SU9g&cad=rja

Worth
While they're looking into subsurface drip, they should also look into a system to inject air into the water supply. It's very beneficial but can be costly.

Has anyone read anything that shows any benefit of watering at a particular time of day? I'm especially interested in knowing if a particular time of day leads to more problems of cracked fruit, etc.
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Old August 11, 2012   #133
Worth1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harveyc View Post
While they're looking into subsurface drip, they should also look into a system to inject air into the water supply. It's very beneficial but can be costly.

Has anyone read anything that shows any benefit of watering at a particular time of day? I'm especially interested in knowing if a particular time of day leads to more problems of cracked fruit, etc.
I'll go with the last question.
I dont think there is a right time of day to water and not get cracks.
I dont even know if just hose water will crack tomatoes I have never seen it myself.
It is only after a heavy rain that it has happened to me.
With the way I have my beds set up the excess water drains out the sides on the bottom and I never had cracking this year.

My beds are set up on drip to turn on everyday in the morning.

They have never had water stress this way.

Worth
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Old August 11, 2012   #134
harveyc
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Here is a report on the study of tomato cracking which includes studies on irrigation practices and their effects on tomato cracking: http://horttech.ashspublications.org...2/216.full.pdf

Since fruit pressure increases both when plants are watered and also when temperatures are high, I propose that the problem of cracking might be decreased if tomatoes are watered at night while the problem might increase if watered at the hottest time of day.
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Old August 11, 2012   #135
Ken4230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tracydr View Post
I use the alarm on my cell phone.

You'd think with my husband being an electrical engineer, mechanic and computer geek he could rig me up some gadgets but noooo!
As old as I am, you just taught me a new trick. My alarm is now on. I'm trying to save an old dogwood, a new redbud and a hosta bed. I let it run for about six hours a couple of weeks ago. I had to get up at two in the morning to turn the water off.

Maybe I can return the favor: In return for solving your water problems, promise him some gismo he's been drooling over OR whip some bedroom eyes and a peek-a-boo nightie on him. He'll come around to your way of thinking.

If that doesn't work, hire it done and send the bill to him at work. That's what my wife would do.
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