Raised beds- Ideal size?

[dipchip2000]

I am going to finally build some raised beds now for use next spring. I have an area of about 30x40 to fill with beds. Is there an ideal size for ease of working and maximize the number of plants without overcrowding them? My thoughts are to build 5x12s and put three beds in a row with 2ft between ends of beds. Do I go with 2x10s or 2x12s and treated or not. I may not get all completed this year but hope to get at least three ready for spring. I already have 60CRW cages 22inch diameter t6hat I have been using inground. Any help with ideas is greatly appreciated.
thanks
ron

[huntoften]

I blogged about this over the summer. Check it out here:

http://kctomatotimes.wordpress.com/2...ion-made-easy/

The taller the better...12 inches is great and what all of my new beds will be made of.

Also...make them 4 foot wide or narrower or you'll have trouble reaching the center. 3 foot works really well for zig-zagging tomatoes in cages..

[feldon30]

Originally Posted by dipchip2000

My thoughts are to build 5x12s

Unless you are 7 foot tall, you will have a very hard time tending to plants in the middle of a bed over 4' wide without stepping in the bed. I'm 6'9" and after having a 12 x 6 bed, I'd never do it again.

I think 3x12 or 4x16 are ideal sizes. In a 3x12 I can comfortably get 8-9 tomato plants. In a 4x16, that number goes to 12-14.

Do I go with 2x10s or 2x12s and treated or not.

Look at the price and decide if it's worth the extra 2" of height.

What type of soil will your beds be resting on? Untreated lumber touching dirt/loam/clay/mud will rot very fast, maybe less than 2 years. Termites are also a problem.

If the beds are being built on well-draining soil (basically sand), then you might get away with Untreated.

Treated lumber doesn't contain arsenic anymore and that's what I use. At least til my ship comes in and I can afford more permanent materials.

[recruiterg]

Mine are 6' x 16' x 6" and I can put a row of 6 large indeterminate tomatoes down the back and a row of shorter plants (like peppers, eggplant, carrots, herbs) down the front. I wish I would have built them higher than 6", but it isn't a huge problem. I can access from the front and back, but occasionally have to step in the raised bed.

[ScottinAtlanta]

Thanks for this thread. I had some blight this year and will put in raised beds for next year. 10"X3X25. If I cover the original soil with cardboard before building up the beds, will that protect the tomatoes from any spores in the soil?

[coloken]

I second the only 4 foot wide. Less than 2 by 10 might be OK, but not as good, The soil settles you know. I think 2 foot walk way is kinda small. My tomatoes hang out that far. My tomatoes are at 2 foot spacing, 8 in a 4 by 8, and that is not enough for some, the giganesque or pasta kolox. One of mine is made from 2 by 10 old water bed bought at a yard sale for next to nothing. They come with corner brackets too.

[salix]

For what it's worth, I'm a short person and 3 ft. wide is perfect. Any wider and it becomes difficult to reach the middle. Not a concern maybe if just doing tomatoes, but definitely a factor when it comes to transplanting and weeding more densely planted crops such as carrots, onions, garlic etc.

[Tom C zone 4/5]

The good news: untreated 2"X6" is a tall enough dimensional lumber. I'll third the 'no wider that four feet. Mine lasted in NH (on clay loam) 6-8 years. if you are certain your going to be at that site longer than 6 to 8 years look at cinderblocks.

The bad news is: none of us are getting any younger. Leave aisle space of four feet and ends of rows six feet apart. This very wide row will admit walkers and manual or powered chairs. Build it not-accessible and your gardening days will be over, should the tooth fairy drop a piano on you...

[salix]

Very good thoughts, Tom C. Even before the walkers and chairs are needed the wider aisles are much more wheelbarrow friendly. I also wanted to add that 10 to 12 ft. is a good length for the beds. If you get carried away and make them 25 ft. or so, it becomes very frustrating to have to walk all the way around to reach the other side. Maybe that is only a concern for arthritic old bones however.

[kath]

We've got cinderblocks and as a reminder, if you plan a 3 or 4' width, remember that about 7" of that distance on each side will not be usable planting space (unless you want to try to plant in the holes, which means LOTS of watering as well as giving up the perk of being able to sit on the edge to facilitate reaching farther into the center of the bed).

I also think wider than 2' for paths because of plant growth, wheel barrows, loss of balance, etc.

[kath]

Oops...our posts crossed, Salix, and you're right about extreme lengths...no arthritis yet but my tomato rows were 45' long this year and I put in a LOT of extra mileage going back to retrieve tools, etc.

[lurley]

Even if your're not considering leaving enough width for things like wheelchairs, at least leave enough for the mower to get in between them! I have a few so close I always have to use the weedwhacker now and everytime I do I think what a "genius" I am!

[dipchip2000]

I am thinking I will build the 3x12 footers with 4ft in between rows and ends of beds for all the reasons described in the above posts. I will use hardware cloth wire on the bottoms of the beds and put in 10 or 12 layers of newspapers in the bottom prior to filling with planting mix,compost,peatmoss,and perlite. For those of you familiar with the Plasticulture method is there any reason covering these beds with black plastic and cutting holes for the plants. I do have a drip irrigation system that I will adapt to the raised beds. Occasionally during spring I get torrential downpours of 4 to 5 inches of rain. do I need to make any special drainage holes or will it drain ok because it is just sitting on the ground?
Thanks for all the ideas and keep them coming. I will probably start construction by Oct 1st

ron

[eyolf]

I like beds 4'wide, by whatever length seems right for the space. I'm tallenough to reach to the middle of a bed; with tomatoes I cut plastic 4 feet wide and space them according to the expected size of a fully grown plant. large Indets are planted and grown in a cage about 18" in diameter (a 5' x 5' square of concrete mesh makes an 18" cage), and the plants are zig-zagged from one side to another on a 3.5 foot spacing, leaving a 4 foot plant spacing.

Smaller determinates get planted closer.

As far as reaching to the center of a bed, I often plant tall, bushy plants down the center. When they shade out the weeds that's a good thing. For example, a row of cabbages and broccoli down the middle with lettuce on the sides.

[salix]

Yes indeed - trellised peas down the middle with beans on the sunny side and lettuce on the shady side. Make a 'map' each year, it will help in your crop rotation. eg. brassicas, alliums, legumes, tomatoes, cucurbits etc. I try to use a 4 year rotation, and do not have any build up of pests (knocking on wood). You will love raised beds, so easy to weed, mulch etc. If you are not familiar with "Square Foot Gardening" suggest you check it out. These little beds can be VERY productive. When you are doing your garden plan this winter make yourself notes to plan for succession sowing, not just radishes, but broccoli, cauliflower, greens etc.