Mold prevention

mysidx · January 13, 2012

I just started seed in a 32 cell flat,about two days ago with five to ten seeds per cell. I am using the ferti-Lome starter soiless mix, and mixed with water to come to the perfect moist but not wet consistencecy. I have them on a heat mat by the window and today I removed the bio-dome to take a peek, and noticed a tad bit of fuzzy mold here and there. Is there anyway to prevent it, or remove it from the areas? Will this affect my seedlings?

Rob

lakelady · January 13, 2012

You could try spraying with a dilute peroxide solution, about a capful for a quart of water. If that doesn't kill it (and yep I'd try to lift off what you can physically remove if it is in "blobs"), try actinovate first, and last resort, some sort of antifungal spray on the surface or a light watering. I had some in one flat last year that I got too busy and forgot to remove the clear lid, and ended up having to use captan on...it was only flowers, but I hated using it all the same.

Some people report good results using a diluted chamomile tea as the watering medium, it is supposed to be antifungal so you might try that going forward when watering or water from below and let the packs suck up what they need within about 30 minutes then drain the rest.

mysidx · January 13, 2012

There isn't much, just a few areas in the corners between the medium and cell wall. At this point it looks like spider web. It's only been two days, that seems quick to have it already.

b54red · January 14, 2012

I frequently get that kind of white spider web mold just before removing the plastic; but it usually goes away once they are exposed to the sunlight and the surface dries out a little. I have found that if you use a good sterile mix and use distilled water or boiled water it doesn't happen as often.

sirtanon · January 20, 2012

I had a TON of that on my most recent seed starts - in this case, started in empty used K-cups which were obviously not completely sterile. Each and every cup had about 1/8" thick of it covering the top. I had kept the cups in a closed container to keep the moisture in, so I'm sure that contributed to it.

My solution? I took a Q-tip dipped in a dilute bleach solution and just rubbed it all over the top of each cup, disturbing all of the mold fully, but taking care not to churn up the surface of the starting mix. I then put the containers back under lights for about 12 hours without the cover over them to let the surface dry out a bit.

I then re-sprayed them with some dilute MG to moisten the soil again, and re-covered them. So far, the mold has not returned.

nicky · January 20, 2012

Weak Chamomile tea works very well for me.

Cheers,
Nicky

mysidx · January 21, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by nicky

Weak Chamomile tea works very well for me.

Cheers,
Nicky

Update: I took the advice of the diluted Chamomile tea by spraying the top of the soil about three or four consecutive days, and no more sign of mold. My seedlings are now about two and a half inches tall, and very happy.

Thanks for the advice

erlyberd · January 28, 2012

Any white/peach fuzz on the soil indicates to me that the soil mix is not sterile! See what happens but in the mean time use 100% vermiculite and ensure that it is sterile,

Worth1 · January 28, 2012

Nothing is sterile for long these spores are in the air.

To prevent mold dont keep too moist and use one part water to 10 parts hydrogen peroxide.

Its not that big a deal about the measurements just get close.

For me use a spray bottle of water and a (((dollop))) of hydrogen peroxide.

Just about everything I measure is a pinch or dollop.

Sometimes it is 2 dollops a pinch and a squirt.

Worth

salix · January 28, 2012

And I use either a smidge or a titch. For larger amounts, a few glugs.

I think the important thing is to allow the surface to remain fairly dry. One mistake some people make is to not completely fill their planting trays. That provides a nice little area for moist air to settle. Keep the soil level up to the top of the trays and there will be fewer problems as it is easier for the surface to dry.

January 13, 2012	#1
mysidx Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Baton Rouge,Louisiana Zone 8b Posts: 340	Mold prevention I just started seed in a 32 cell flat,about two days ago with five to ten seeds per cell. I am using the ferti-Lome starter soiless mix, and mixed with water to come to the perfect moist but not wet consistencecy. I have them on a heat mat by the window and today I removed the bio-dome to take a peek, and noticed a tad bit of fuzzy mold here and there. Is there anyway to prevent it, or remove it from the areas? Will this affect my seedlings? Rob

January 13, 2012	#2
lakelady Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: northern NJ zone 6b Posts: 1,862	You could try spraying with a dilute peroxide solution, about a capful for a quart of water. If that doesn't kill it (and yep I'd try to lift off what you can physically remove if it is in "blobs"), try actinovate first, and last resort, some sort of antifungal spray on the surface or a light watering. I had some in one flat last year that I got too busy and forgot to remove the clear lid, and ended up having to use captan on...it was only flowers, but I hated using it all the same. Some people report good results using a diluted chamomile tea as the watering medium, it is supposed to be antifungal so you might try that going forward when watering or water from below and let the packs suck up what they need within about 30 minutes then drain the rest. __________________ Antoniette

January 20, 2012	#5
sirtanon Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Phoenix, AZ (zone 9b) Posts: 796	I had a TON of that on my most recent seed starts - in this case, started in empty used K-cups which were obviously not completely sterile. Each and every cup had about 1/8" thick of it covering the top. I had kept the cups in a closed container to keep the moisture in, so I'm sure that contributed to it. My solution? I took a Q-tip dipped in a dilute bleach solution and just rubbed it all over the top of each cup, disturbing all of the mold fully, but taking care not to churn up the surface of the starting mix. I then put the containers back under lights for about 12 hours without the cover over them to let the surface dry out a bit. I then re-sprayed them with some dilute MG to moisten the soil again, and re-covered them. So far, the mold has not returned. __________________ I could sail by on the winds of silence, and maybe they won't notice... but this time I think it would be better if I swim..

January 14, 2012	#4
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	I frequently get that kind of white spider web mold just before removing the plastic; but it usually goes away once they are exposed to the sunlight and the surface dries out a little. I have found that if you use a good sterile mix and use distilled water or boiled water it doesn't happen as often.

January 20, 2012	#6
nicky Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Ontario Posts: 600	Weak Chamomile tea works very well for me. Cheers, Nicky

January 28, 2012	#8
erlyberd Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: CT Zone 5 Posts: 186	Any white/peach fuzz on the soil indicates to me that the soil mix is not sterile! See what happens but in the mean time use 100% vermiculite and ensure that it is sterile,

January 28, 2012	#9
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Nothing is sterile for long these spores are in the air. To prevent mold dont keep too moist and use one part water to 10 parts hydrogen peroxide. Its not that big a deal about the measurements just get close. For me use a spray bottle of water and a (((dollop))) of hydrogen peroxide. Just about everything I measure is a pinch or dollop. Sometimes it is 2 dollops a pinch and a squirt. Worth

January 28, 2012	#10
salix Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: north central B.C. Posts: 2,310	And I use either a smidge or a titch. For larger amounts, a few glugs. I think the important thing is to allow the surface to remain fairly dry. One mistake some people make is to not completely fill their planting trays. That provides a nice little area for moist air to settle. Keep the soil level up to the top of the trays and there will be fewer problems as it is easier for the surface to dry.