Irrigation irritation !!!

[imp]

For those who run drip irrigation, I need some simple help. I've looked, read and for a bit, think I have it straight, but then my brain doesn't "get" it. Frustrating.

So, a few questions.

From the faucet I am wanting to run a timer with 2 or 4 outlets. What order does the filter, timer, pressure reducer and whatever else it is that I need, go?

And exactly what is each thing I'll need?

I am thinking about an EZ Go to add for fertilizing, where in the set up does it go?

I'm getting confused about constant pressure and what cannot take constant pressure?

Are the emitters that are compensating better, or is the compensating emitter hose with the emitters already in better? Better to run all 1/2 inch tubing or to use 1/2 inch with 1/4 tubing?

I'll be having about 32 tomato plants.

Dripworks helped, but.....my brain is fried.

Help!!!!!

[Worth1]

Dead beat tired but if you dont get help soon I will help you in any way I can this weekend.

I can say the filter needs to go before anything.
Then timer then regulator if you are going to use a battery operated timer.
Many have a filter in the timer fitting anyway.
But you need to get a good filter like 100 or 200 mesh before the water goes to the drip lines.
Worth

[nancyruhl]

I am not an expert, but if you are getting one of the timers with 2 or 4 valves, everything would have to come before the timer to affect each of the valves before they open. The valves are connected to the timer to open and close them. I am not sure, but I would go with pressure reducer, filter, timer and valves. That being said, I run my timer without either of the pressure reducer or the filter without any problem. The drippers are rated on gallons per hour, so they are limiting as to the amount of flow. The filter always gets clogged and messes everything up for me. I use 1/2 inch tubing to the 1/4 inch drippers. I use weighted drippers as the others always were popping out.

The ez flow would also have to come before the timer to function for all the different valves.

[Cole_Robbie]

Fertilizer injectors, or at least all the cheap ones I have tried, are built to work at a specific flow rate, or at least a range. I had an EZ-Flow. They give you three gaskets for three different flow rates. If you have a very small garden, it may not be possible to use a fertilizer injector at all, because your flow rate will not be high enough.

I like Mazzei and Hozon siphon injectors better than the EZ-Flow. The Hozon needs a really big garden. I bought the smallest Mazzei, and even it will not work for my 150 row feet of high tunnel, which draws 1.5 gpm. I had to hang the bucket of fertilizer up in the air to get it to work.

[AlittleSalt]

Imp, is this at your house or at the community garden area?

[imp]

My house- I mulched the entire front yard about 4 inches deep in wood mulch and have placed 18 tomato plants out there with 12 more to go in. I got tired of mowing weeds and figured it might as well be something I can eat and enjoy growing, not curse at !

The CG would not be a good choice for the timers as some one may turn it off, LOL.

[Cole_Robbie]

Don't use 12" spacing drip tape if you want to use a fertilizer injector, or at least a cheap one. You won't have enough flow. It might work if you used the drip tape with 4" emitter spacing, and even better if you doubled it down each row.

[AlittleSalt]

Imp, being that it is at home, I would suggest doing everything with a water hose and fertilizing by hand. Why? Because I'm old-fashioned I guess? I like nurturing things myself.

However, your question is about drip irrigation. Ask Worth this weekend.

[imp]

I was thinking if I put it on a timer, it would be more consistent and also could water very early before sunrise.

Just trying to figure it all out, especially the point from the hose bib out, LOL. Then if using a 1/2 line all the way with drippers , 1 at each plant, or a 1/2 supply line with built in emitters that are spaced every 18 inches, either would be pressure compensating....

[Nematode]

Drip tape no fuss works in a row crop style grow.

Individual emitters are more work more flexible and more subject to damage from foot traffic etc.

If you are adding potted plants drip emitters will allow a tube to go from emitter to the pot.

Can't go wrong with Netafim. PC is the way to go.

[Worth1]

When it comes to this type of irrigation the sky is the limit on what you can do and I mean the limit.

One thing to remember here in Texas and other southern states is peppers and tomatoes DO NOT need the same amount of water for the most part.
If you pump that much water to the pepper plants they will get root rot chili wilt or what ever it is called and die in no time flat.
I learned this by mistake.

The battery operated timers are very limiting on timer set up but will do the job.
One good 9 volt battery will last well over a year so it isn't like you have to worry about that.
The only time it really uses any power is to toggle the valve off and on.
The rest is just running the clock.

What I am about to start doing is keeping track of how much water a day the plants in my containers are using.
When I figure that out I can hook up drip emitters and set the time.

Next I highly prefer the Hunter bubblers ran on PVC over anything else for small non commercial setups .
They come in a wide range of GPM for every application.
Right now I am running or have ran every type of drip there is but drip tape.
The Hunter bubblers are the best.

Worth

[imp]

The peppers won't be on the same zone, might all pretty much be in containers or at the CG.

I am not sure how much water per plant, but was thinking along the lines of 1 gallon per hour emitters. I would like to sort of bury the hose/lines under the mulch but above the ground, at least between the plants. i can adjust time periods to make sure the plants are happy.

The water dept. would like me to use more water- the last 2 months are only the basic charges as I have used less that 1 unit and you aren't charged until you go over that, LOL!

Just spent an hour more or less out there hand watering and it is already getting hot for this time of day, sigh. 2 days of man temps, then back down to the mid to high 80's for a bit, but mean will be back!

[Nematode]

Imp,
You can start with the irrigation and turning the spigot valve.
The automatic timer and fertigation can be added later.
Sometimes it's a bit much to figure it out all at once.
Put a filter in at the start though, or you will be re-doing sooner than you like.

[imp]

The main point of doing this is for consistent watering and also to water very early or late.

Turning on the spigot valve, I can stand out there and hand water, LOL, but I really want to put the water right at the plant and slowly as I have a loamy clay mixed soil. I also wish to run some fertilizer to each plant.

I think this might be the right order, but not really sure so if anyone thinks it is wrong, please say so!

Spigot
Y splitter
one one side of the Y splitter:
Back flow preventer
pressure reducer,
filter
fertilizer of what ever sort if used goes here
timer with 4 valves for 4 zones
coupling to go from male hose threads to 1/2 inch tubing


Is that right?

[rjake100]

I have a tip for container irrigation.

If your containers use a medium that drains very quickly (Raybo 3-2-1) then be careful about what emitter you use. I used some regular drip emitters and found that the moisture wasn't spreading throughout the media. Then I found the Netafim Spray Stakes. These spray a fine mist downward away from the leaves and cover a large amount of the planter. The Spray Stakes require their special tubing so be sure to by the assembly that includes the tubing. I connect the assemblies to the 1/2" main line.

http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/p...dripper-stakes