Have a great invention to help with gardening? Are you the self-reliant type that prefers Building It Yourself vs. buying it? Share and discuss your ideas and projects with other members.
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August 26, 2010 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 682
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The Any Container SWC
One ideal that I have been bouncing around in my head is to come up with a way to make any container into a self watering container. Think I finally came up with a working plan.
The goal is to make any single container into a SWC, One of the things that always has bothered me is the ideal of having to use two perfectly good containers and then cutting one of them up. Here is a rough version of my ideal. It uses Corrugated Drain pipe which you can buy in various sizes. For this example we will use the 4 in pipe and the typical earth type box storage containers (though this can be done on a 5 gallon bucket or really any container as long as no drain holes exist or they are plugged. ) A 12ft roll of 4in corrugated pipe is roughly $10. The larger the roll in feet the more you can save. The pipe is then laid in the bottom of the container. One piece will be cut to 4 - 5 inches and used as the wick. They also sell a sock that fits over the pipe. This could actually be placed inside of the pipe for the wick to hold the soil. Then we will need a spacer to allow for an air chamber. You will need to drill one hole at the air space layer to act as a drain to prevent over filling. (preferably on the same side as your water fill pipe so you can tell when the water chamber is full) On top of that a piece of hardware cloth will be placed with a layer of weed block fabric on top of that. You will still need a watering pipe that is slightly longer than the height of the container in the design. you do not have to cut it at an angle just make sure it is notched at the bottom. You can also drill a hole if you want. Once thats in place just fill the container with your potting mix and place your fertilizer line. (Optional step but will save water and is advised) attach the lid with either cut out holes for plants or cut out the interior section and use plastic or 30 year landscape fabric ) then cut that out for planting. The reason I think this might work so well is the corrugated pipe is designed to be covered in rock or soil and I even have some that runs under my concrete patio, so it is really strong and should be able to support the weight of soil and the plants without any issues. Also it is fairly simple and would be easy to build Really other than cutting the pipe and cutting out for the plants and for the water fill pipe and the one drain hole the rest is basically just assembly. As this would be my first time thinking up and building a SWC if anyone knows of any required feature I left out or have any suggestions I would love to hear them. I did a search on google for The Any Container and did not get any hits back so hopefully that name for this project is usable. |
August 26, 2010 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MS
Posts: 1,523
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Stepheninky, there is a sticky at the top of the "Growing in Containers" forum that has a PDF link by Raybo here at T'ville that gives all the details of his self watering containers. You can compare your idea to the ones Ray makes.
DS
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August 26, 2010 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 682
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I have read that sticky and also looked at the plans that are on tomato fest which I believe is the same Ray.
The main difference is mine is single container and his you use two containers to build it. I think the starting concept is the same, a self watering system. there are many advantages overall to his design. The main principle with my design I am trying to come up with something that is a little easier to build and that can be adapted to any size/shape container. I used the Square storage container as the example as it is a concept that is familiar to most. Also the insides of his containers are made of more quality parts/ mine is more budget based in that I am trying to do something similar but with less in a simple way. So its kinda like comparing apples and oranges. They have some things in common but are also different. |
August 26, 2010 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Stephen,
Good stuff! Have you taken any photos of the design as it is a bit difficult to "visualize" how it all hangs together. Keep the innovation coming. Raybo |
August 26, 2010 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 682
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Sure will try, not quite to build out phase but so happens I do have some similar pipe with holes in it and not the preferred corrugated but close enough and I have a storage container that I use for laundry so will throw that together and take a couple pics. Least to give an ideal.
OK as you hopefully will be able to see in the pics I have two longer pieces of drain pipe 4" dia. and a third piece vertical (not sure on the length just trying to show how it will go together) that will end up having a sock of sorts that goes down in it in order to hold soil and act as a wick. The water fill pipe will be in the corner. Now not pictured, (honestly not fully worked out just yet) will be a spacer for an air layer.{ Probably will end up being 1/2 in pipe of some type that will run across the drain pipe.} At this layer will be the over fill drain hole. On top of that air layer will be placed hardware cloth (kind of like metal weave like they used in storm doors as screen but thicker and more ridged basically a small square weaved wire fence material. ) On top of that will be placed Preen 30 year landscape fabric. At this point it pretty much follows the same as the Earthtainer you fill it with soil mix and add fert etc... and place the lid on top just the same as well. Trying to simplify the steps above as there will be some wire ties etc... used to hold a few things in place. Hopefully that helps you get a better ideal though of it. The drain pipe as stated is very strong so that is where most of the weight will end up. The container I used to show it is a little on the small side probably a 24 gal or less. the actual one will be a bit bigger. The ideal is say you wanted to do this in a circular container everything will be basically the same except you will start with one longer piece of drain pipe and its flexible so you just make a loop in the bottom of the container. Then build up from that. |
August 26, 2010 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Stephen,
To hold the potting mix in the wicking tube, you may want to experiment with a women's ankle panty-hose (OK, I am a GUY and don't know what they are called) section around the outside of the 4 inch pipe section. This will keep the potting mix from leaking into the water reservoir, yet allow the water to enter the wicking tube section. Paint stores also sell strainers that function like this as well, so that may be a better option. How do you plan to support the tomato cage units? Raybo |
August 26, 2010 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 682
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The pantyhose is a good ideal, They also make a fabric sock that goes over the drain pipe that is made to keep the drain pipe from silting up. So I was just going to tie one end off and put that into the pipe and over the top and use a cable tie to hold it.
Same concept though as pantyhose. As far as cage supports had not got quite that far yet in the thought processes, but it will be either external like a t frame that goes behind the planter or in some way mounted with fender washers and bolts either inside or out side the container. Either of the later methods will have to have some type of bracing to distribute the weight. Though most likely I will have to figure out some type of staking method as I am not really too happy with cages right now. I know staking is a bit more work but I think it looks better and provides more air circulation to the tomatoes. I guess if you really wanted internal caging though you could cable tie the cages to the hardware cloth and put in an internal brace to make sure it could not move from the cage weight. A couple of braces made from EMT conduit would probably work and could also be tied in with cable ties and attached with fender washers and bolts to the container as well. Thats just some thoughts out loud but really need to give it more consideration, like I have stated still in the conceptual phase. Once I decide to build the real thing I will take some pics and try to show it step by step to make it easier to follow. |
August 26, 2010 | #8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 682
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August 27, 2010 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,027
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Do a google search on eBucket garden - perhaps it will give you some helpful ideas.
There's been quite a bit of detailed discussion on Dave's Garden, cubits.org and elsewhere on how to make self watering containers from 5 gal buckets and such. |
August 27, 2010 | #10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 682
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August 27, 2010 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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The horizontal piece of perforated, corrugated pipe is a good
idea. I used pieces of 4" ABS pipe cut 1/2" longer than the wicking basket is tall and drilled 1/4" holes in them, then stood them on end to support the shelf for the container mix. In one container I even used a piece of the pipe itself for the wicking chamber, like your design. One can fill it with a mix of bark and peat, and that will stay in the wick despite the 1/4" holes for water circulation. You can drill your overflow hole (I usually use more than one, in case a chunk of something gets into the reservoir and clogs one up) to line up with the top of the two long pieces of pipe that support the shelf for the container mix, and it will be at about the right height. If you use a 1/2" drill bit for that (spade bit for wood, maybe), then you end up with 1/2" space between the top of the wick and the high water level in the reservoir. That would avoid needing more pieces of small pipe crosswise above the pieces of corrugated pipe to provide that air space.
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August 27, 2010 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 682
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Thanks Dice ,
Sounds like that might be the best way to go. |
August 27, 2010 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Vaasa, Finland, latitude N 63°
Posts: 838
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I like your idea of using the drain pipe to build a SWC. I built my own version this year using one container, expanded clay aggregate, plastic pipe and landscaping fabric. Plants have been growing fine and healthy. It will be interesting to see how the roots are when season is done.
I'll be interested seeing your final design, since I am open to any new one container designs. Good quality plastic containers are so expensive here that I do not dare to cut them up. Sari
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August 28, 2010 | #14 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 682
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Keep the great ideals flowing |
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August 28, 2010 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 581
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I also suggest at least 2 overflow holes. Unless you are building to Space Shuttle tolerances, you will get some debris into the water chamber. If the one hole does get plugged, your plants will get wet feet
If you really wanted to get fancy, you could add an aquarium heater to extend your growing season. Last edited by RinTinTin; August 28, 2010 at 09:52 PM. |
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