General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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February 1, 2015 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 7
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5-1-1 Mix and Fertilizing
So I'm growing in containers to have more plants and have looked up this mix.
What I'm wondering are your opinions on fertilizing. I mostly do organic and build the soil for my small garden. Not opposed to chemical just easier to build soil and not worry about feeding constantly. I know that containers are different from tomatoes ability to destroy water and nutrients. So just looking for advice on what to put in the pine bark mix to start the containers and what and when to fertilize through the season. Thanks |
February 1, 2015 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Somis, Ca
Posts: 649
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C...it is easier to build a quality organic mix in the ground. Container growing involves ever-changing conditions. In my 3 years of seriously growing in containers...here are the keys I have found. 1. Potting mix must be free draining (no moisture control) and have adequate drainage. I mix in "cactus mix" with my custom blend (fast draining) 2. It is really best to do more diluted fertilizations...rather than less full strength feedings. 3. Watering in summer is a full time job 4. The container forum guys are the experts 5. tomatoes need tons of sun
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February 1, 2015 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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I did a lot of 5-1-1 tomato plants last spring using root pouches. At first they did great; but I was totally unprepared for how much water they needed. For a lot of plants, I don't think it is a good fit if you have to pay for water, like I do. On the plus side, when it rained for a couple of days, the plants were not fazed.
At the same time, I also started growing tomatoes in EarthBoxes, which I loved and justified buying more by the lower water bills. |
February 1, 2015 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Somis, Ca
Posts: 649
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if I am not mistaken...the earthboxes are about $32 each. They require daily water during summer. I am not sure I see the savings. However, I like the EB's as well. The design seems good...and results are generally excellent. Like I said earlier...container growing is work.
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February 1, 2015 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: South Carolina Zone 8a
Posts: 1,205
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I've been using ollas in some of my containers, and I am impressed at how well they work. I have two kinds; a large, thick round one with a lid, and a smaller, butternut squash shaped one with thin walls but no lid. I like the large thick ones best, but they're too big for anything less than a 15 gallon pot.
Last edited by Blueaussi; February 1, 2015 at 08:33 PM. Reason: picture not showing. |
February 14, 2015 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,916
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I use 5-1-1 mix for all my container planting. Because I buy and mix my own, it cost a fraction of the name brand potting soils. Specifically, my cost is 40 cents per gallon.
Other than costs, I think it is superior to the name brand potting soils. It has good drainage and provide goo aeration for the root system. |
February 14, 2015 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Morgantown, WV
Posts: 30
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What is the 5-1-1 mix?
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February 14, 2015 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Allentown, PA
Posts: 349
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Jim, the 5-1-1 mix is the mix designed by Al Tapla for container planting. Here's a good thread explaining it: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discuss...in-more-detail ... basically, it's 5 parts pine bark fines, 1 part peat, and 1 part perlite.
I am using it for the first time this spring (in zone 9b, just planted out last weekend). I have five 5-gallon smart pots with peppers, and four 7-gallon smart pots with dwarf tomatoes. They are all watered with individual, adjustable 360-degree drippers (these to be specific). Since these pots are on the same drip irrigation system as my raised beds (which are served by drip lines), it was important to me to have adjustable drippers so I can make sure the containers receive more water as the weather heats up and evaporation drains them of moisture much quicker than the beds. Here's a photo (ignore the Solo cups... this was right after I planted out... and although the main line is in, I hadn't installed the individual drippers yet): |
February 14, 2015 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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I found the 5-1-1 mix too well draining for my needs I use a 3-1-1 mix I also use horticultural diatomaceous earth as it retains about 120% of it's weight in water, and when dry retains air. Pores are large enough for roots to access. I also add compost, one part to introduce bacteria/fungi and to prevent root rot (this is well documented). I use a mix of organic and soluble fertilizers. Still experimenting. I also grow in ground, but to increase the amount of plants I have in my yard I need to use containers.
Last edited by drew51; February 14, 2015 at 06:06 PM. |
February 14, 2015 | #10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Morgantown, WV
Posts: 30
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February 14, 2015 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Morgantown, WV
Posts: 30
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Thanks; can't wait to have plants like yours
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February 15, 2015 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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Drew - your plants are beautiful. So they are from the 3-1-1 and DE?
On the DE, how much do you use? I found the same thing with the 5-1-1 mix - too dry. When not using earthboxes, I also use the root pouches - up to 15 gallons. Also, you put the root pouches directly on the deck? I have a lot of tomato plants on my deck also, but started putting wooden slats underneath. TIA, Barb Elight - keep us posted how you do with the 5-1-1; I live on the Central Florida East Coast - so not as hot as Orlando; I was totally unprepared for how much water the plants needed. |
February 15, 2015 | #13 | ||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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I use one part so a 3-1-1-1. I have been leaving out the perlite but this year I'm putting it back. Just to make sure it has good drainage. The DE absorbs a lot of water, but not all. And it slowly releases it making it available to the plants. Here is a Night blooming jasmine. The most fragrant flower in the world. You can smell this at night 100 feet away or farther. it is completely covered in blooms. Here is 2 Chinese 5 color pepper plants A young ground cherry plant. This plant produced over 400 cherries last year. Here is the plant a little older on the grass bottom right. The foliage completely covers the fabric pot it is in. On the left are my raised beds. Some of my fruit trees there on the right. The raised beds far left is a 20 foot row of raspberries, beneficial flowers are all over. Blueberry plants are there too. And the right side are tomato plants. At the back of the photo against the shed is a 12 foot row of pole beans. A close up of the raspberries |
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February 15, 2015 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Indialantic, Florida
Posts: 2,000
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Thanks for the info re: Optisorb. The food grade DE that I have always bought is like a powder.
Your garden looks fabulous. |
February 15, 2015 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Morgantown, WV
Posts: 30
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Is DE the dicoutamous(SP?) earth?...
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