Drain Hole

[TomatoDon]

I have some 54 gallon heavy totes from Home Depot and wanted to put one or two tomato plants in each for a fall crop. These are the same kind, but a size up, from the 31 gallon totes Raybo uses. But, at least for now, these won't be the self water kind, just the container and soil mix.

At what height should the drain hole be? I've heard it should be 3-4 inches high to serve as a small reservoir at the bottom which helps keep the moisture regulated and saves having to water so often in hot weather. On the other hand I heard that you want it lower to NOT have a small reservoir because that water-logged the plant's roots.

Both sound credible and logical...so, which is it?

Thanks!

DS

[rnewste]

Don,

Strongly advise against putting drain holes that high. You will end up with a stagnant cesspool after a few months as all of that water below the drain holes will go bad - VERY BAD!

If you are not going to build a "SuperTainer" out of those 54 gallon containers (shame on you), then I would drill about 6 to 8 1/4 inch holes within half an inch of the bottom, along the 4 sides. Better yet, drill the drain holes in the bottom of the container as this will permit all stagnant water to run out.

Make sure you use "Raybo's 3:2:1 Combo Mix" if you want a happy result!

Raybo

[TomatoDon]

Thanks Ray, I was hoping you would respond to this. I was curious to hear your opinion about the 54 gallon totes. Was this size available when you did all the upgrading to the 31 gallon?

Thanks again Ray!

[rnewste]

Don,

Yes, I did consider using the 54 gallon Totes, but the Laws of Physics (and my aching Back) convinced me to stay with the 31 gallon size, as the optimal design. The 31 gallon EarthTainer weighs about 140 pounds when in operation, so I extrapolated that the 54 gallon one with all of the water in the reservoir, plus that in the moist Potting Mix would tip the scales at 200+ pounds. Something that would just be too cumbersome to rotate during mid-season, tip up at the end of the Season to drain, uneven moisture distribution due to the single wicking basket in the center, and other structural reasons. Sometimes, "Less is More" if you know what I mean.

My new Project is to design a leak-proof (no drain hole) SWC for indoor use based on the 18 gallon size tote. It will have a built-in "faucet" to drain the stagnant water without making a mess. Hope to post the plans by October 1, after I have built and tested 6 or so of them. I am calling it the "InnTainer".

Raybo

[TomatoDon]

Raybo, I always enjoy your posts and contributions to the container "growing" world. These experiments you have going...my first flash thought was this will either lead to a divorce or a nomination for the Nobel Prize.

DS

[rnewste]

Don,

I was kind of hoping for BOTH!

I've just hired a gorgeous Consultant at work, and instead of meeting with a key customer for dinner tomorrow evening - - I think I am going to take her out instead and still put that on my Expense Report... I mean, no harm can come from something that trivial - right????

Raybo

[TomatoDon]

Hey, wait a minute now. I'm the one that's single!

Should I ask here or start a new thread....2010, the best and worst results for different varieties in EarthTainers. And/or do any variteis get so large that they outgrow the container? Is it best to plant vigorous indeterminites one per tainer, or do they still do well two to a container. And etc.

Thanks Raybo!

Don

[rnewste]

Don,

My most "productive" plant variety in the EarthTainer has to be Big Beef. In terms of sheer quantity of tomatoes produced, it is perhaps triple that of the next closest variety - Japanese Black Trifele.



Worst in Paul Robeson - just a few tomatoes, then the plants died. Still trying to figure out why...

Raybo

[TomatoDon]

Are you doing two Big Beefs in one tainer? I'm searching for threads that have been listed as good ones for the tainers. What about the Paul Robeson? Two or one?

[rnewste]

Don,

I do 2 plants per 'Tainer, as the two cages fit perfectly in the 31 gallon tote:



Yes, it gets a bit crowded, but pruning a bit works fine.

Raybo

[TomatoDon]

I knew you did, I'm very familiar with the design and the pictures of your really nice plants. I didnt know if you put everything in by two's or if smoe got too big for that.

[rnewste]

Don,

I try to do the "Noah's Ark" kind of thing, pairing up the plants when possible. Big Beef will always be a double plant for me. Just had some sauce tonight made primarily from them, and it was great!

Raybo

[TomatoDon]

Well Raybo, I always thought of you as more of the Johnny Appleseed of the tomato world type of guy. But if you'd rather be Noah, I can understand.

BTW...I still have a lot of the Rubbermaid totes from last year, but the smaller size. I think they are around 26 gallons. The dimensions (from my tape measure and not the dimensions Rubbermaid listed because I can't find them) is 20 X 17 X 18. If that was all squared up the cubic inches would equal about 26 gallons, so that's a horseback opinion. These are perfect for my 24" CRW cages that are already made.

DS

[coastal-tony]

I just picked up 10 5-gal. buckets and have baby seedlings growing. I need some help. Last two seasons 5-gal. buckets had 5-6 1" holes in the bottoms, used coarse pine bark as a filler with MG organic choice mix. Did not have good results. My planting area is on the south side of my property, that gets sun from sun-up till around noon thanks to a monster Melaleuca tree. I have a drill charging but I don't want to start drilling till I get some advice. Also, whats the deal with the "fill tube"?

[TomatoDon]

I hate to be the messenger.....but....a 5 gallon container is mighty small for normal and large size tomato plants. A 5 gallon container might be fine for small plants and cherry tomatoes, but regardless of the plant size you will have to water a lot if you use 5 gallon containers. And the more you water the more of the nutrients you will flush out. And you will have more heat issues to contend with.

I've asked the question about drilling and most everyone here will tell you to drill at the very bottom. All nursery containers you see are this way and it must be for a reason. I believe the thinking is that water trapped at the bottom gets stagnant and hurts the plants. But you're in luck. Raybo here is the world's leading authority on self watering containers and whatever he says is the gold standard in self watering containers. I will be surprised if he thinks that a 5 gallon container is large enough to yield maximum results in tomato production.

I'd suggest getting larger containers. There should be a lot of nurseries in south Florida that will give you some used 20 and 30 gallon containers, or sell them to you at a big discount. Or go from start to finish with Ray's method for self watering containers.