Thrips, Mealybugs and Leafminers - Any Advice?

Joz · February 13, 2006

I have had problems every year with thrips, mealybugs and leafminers. The aphids and spidermites have been controlled (I finally got a proper hose on my balcony), but I'm not having much luck controlling the others.

I'm growing in containers, and will be planting tomatoes, bell peppers, basil, thyme, mint, sage, dill, chives, tarragon (hopefully), oregano, and rosemary. I also have a couple citrus and fig trees.

Is there anything I can do to the soil itself to maybe prevent the bugs returning this year?

I'm interested in companion planting as well, and if something like nasturtiums, borage or alyssum will prevent these bugs from establishing themselves (or host predatory "good bugs"), I'm hip to that.

I would prefer to not douse my plants in insecticides. If there's a mild or organic option, that would be ideal.

Thanks....

markferon · February 13, 2006

flour is a mild organic solution to your problem.

Joz · February 13, 2006

How does one treat for such bugs using flour? I'm guessing as a dusting...?

markferon · February 13, 2006

you wet plants down either by hose or dew early in morning then dust plants with flour and wait. After an hour then you rinse the plant. repeat over several days. The flour acts like glue and traps the bugs.

**Mischka** · February 13, 2006

I've had limited success using both hot pepper wax and neem oil solutions. You must drench the plant daily; to the point of dripping to achieve any benefit in my experience.

Early morning (prior to sunrise) spray times are recommended.

Neem oil should be diluted and used with a sticker-spreader additive; a non-petroleum surfactant such as hand dishwashing liquid works well, using it at the rate of a teaspoon per gallon of neem/water mix.

Both neem and hot pepper wax are organically derived. Be sure to stand upwind if spraying hot pepper wax... I've "maced" myself a few times by not paying attention to the wind direction.

Rena · February 13, 2006

What I have found in the greenhouse is that if you feed your plants (feed your soil) I do not get a bug problem. Get thee some compost and make sure you are fert at least once a week if you are doing containers. A light foliar food would also be good. It is like the bugs know that the plants are weak. White flies are really bad about this. best wishes and good luck OH and nasturtiums grow in poor soil. :wink:
EDIT::::EDIT ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
I was not saying this would cure bugs I was saying that this would help keep them at bay.

markferon · February 13, 2006

miska there is two problems with your dish soap mixture suggestion.
A few years back on garden web a guy got a bad case leaf damage by spraying water and dish soap mix. the dish soap if used must be at 2 parts of soap to 50 part water or less. It has following two side effects on tomato plants: 1. leaf burn 2. delayed fruiting .
there was organic gardening article a few years back on the subject. which i will look up later if like.

travis · February 13, 2006

Plant something nearby that the bugs like better ... sometimes that's a tomato with higher brix or whatever the particular bugs are after on the tomato you want to keep chemical-free. You ought to know by now which varieties attract the most bugs. Sacrifice one. Whatever it takes.

Then when the bugs congregate on the sacrificial plant, spray the bejeebers out of it with something potent sold by Dow, Monsanto, or whomever makes that evil stuff (Sevin works for me).

Do your sprayin' when there's least chance for drift ... like early in the mornin' when the dew is still on the plant and there isn't any wind and the bugs are still snoozin' in the cool temps.

When the infestation is under control, dispose of the goat plant and the top inch or so of soil around it. Wear gloves, wash your hands, and don't pick your schnoz. You'll probably survive.

PV

**Mischka** · February 13, 2006

There is not a problem with my dish soap recommendation of 1 teaspoon per gallon. :wink:

There are six (6) teaspoons to 1 fluid ounce. (U.S.)

1 gallon (U.S.) = 128 fluid ounces.

1 gallon (U.S.) = 768 teaspoons.

This far exceeds a 50/1 mix ratio.

As a footnote, all of the "natural" brands of dish soap are made with corn and/or soy and/or coconut derived surfactants. Many of the ones without the "natural" claim are also made this way.

markferon · February 13, 2006

vic jos want an organic solution several other and i have posted solutions to that effect. The only other solution I would suggest is spinospad but I would check to see if is effective on the bugs you want gone.
Miska I missed the mixture part of your post.

travis · February 13, 2006

Well then ...

http://www.ghorganics.com/page14.html

http://www.comfycountrycreations.com/bugspray.htm

Then you can save your flour for biscuits and gravy. :wink:

PV

markferon · February 13, 2006

home soap warning article
Organic Gardening May/Jun96, Vol. 43 Issue 5, p14, 2p, 1c

sweetwm007 · February 14, 2006

joz- many yrs ago when i lived in waynesboro, ga, i had some window screening [ fiberglass window screening i bought in a roll] sewn in tube shaped forms [sew the 2 opposing sides together] you can make them as long and short as you like. then when you decide on the lengths, just sew the top closed. i slipped these down over my tomato cages [ crw] and had the most blemish free, pest deprived plants and beautiful tomatoes you ever wanted to see. that was many yrs ago and i haven't done this again probably cause i move too much. they worked like a champ. no, there wasn't any shade problems and yes, there are a lot of pests in georgia! i plan on doing this again when i retire.
william

honu · March 8, 2006

Mischka,
Thank you for sharing your organic recipes. I have been searching for organic recipes for my battle against tomato bugs (Cyrtopeltis modestus, insect order Hemiptera, identity and symptoms (blossom drop, purple rings around new shoot stems) confirmed by a local entomologist)...I'm currently losing the battle -- they are now chewing off almost 100% of my tomato blossoms. Insecticidal soap has not worked so far, and they have multiplied like crazy.
I am interested in your hot pepper spray, and wonder if it works only by direct contact, or is it effective when the insect sucks on a sprayed area, which is probably what I need, since the bugs fly on and off.

Also, I agree with you that natural soap at 1 tsp per gallon is very dilute and has never harmed my plants. I have even tried 1 tsp per quart without harm on mature plants (natural soap only, like Dr. Bonner's), but only sprayed in early morning or late afternoon, and never in direct sunlight.

honu · March 8, 2006

Joz, I checked the Peaceful Valley catalog for Spinosad insecticides and it claims to be effective against leafminers, thrips, beetles, and is OMRI listed. I think I'll give it a try, since I also have major thrip, beetle, and leafminer damage. Unfortunately, the entomologist who id'd my tomato bug problem said it won't work against my tomato bugs.

If anyone has a tried and true organic solution to tomato bugs, I would really appreciate if you could share it.

February 13, 2006	#1
Joz Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: New Orleans, LA Posts: 27	Thrips, Mealybugs and Leafminers - Any Advice? I have had problems every year with thrips, mealybugs and leafminers. The aphids and spidermites have been controlled (I finally got a proper hose on my balcony), but I'm not having much luck controlling the others. I'm growing in containers, and will be planting tomatoes, bell peppers, basil, thyme, mint, sage, dill, chives, tarragon (hopefully), oregano, and rosemary. I also have a couple citrus and fig trees. Is there anything I can do to the soil itself to maybe prevent the bugs returning this year? I'm interested in companion planting as well, and if something like nasturtiums, borage or alyssum will prevent these bugs from establishing themselves (or host predatory "good bugs"), I'm hip to that. I would prefer to not douse my plants in insecticides. If there's a mild or organic option, that would be ideal. Thanks....

February 13, 2006	#3
Joz Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: New Orleans, LA Posts: 27	flour? How does one treat for such bugs using flour? I'm guessing as a dusting...?

February 13, 2006	#5
Mischka Tomatoville® Administrator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: The Bay State Posts: 3,207	I've had limited success using both hot pepper wax and neem oil solutions. You must drench the plant daily; to the point of dripping to achieve any benefit in my experience. Early morning (prior to sunrise) spray times are recommended. Neem oil should be diluted and used with a sticker-spreader additive; a non-petroleum surfactant such as hand dishwashing liquid works well, using it at the rate of a teaspoon per gallon of neem/water mix. Both neem and hot pepper wax are organically derived. Be sure to stand upwind if spraying hot pepper wax... I've "maced" myself a few times by not paying attention to the wind direction. __________________ Mischka One last word of farewell, Dear Master and Mistress. Whenever you visit my grave, say to yourselves with regret but also with happiness in your hearts at the remembrance of my long happy life with you: "Here lies one who loved us and whom we loved." No matter how deep my sleep I shall hear you, and not all the power of death can keep my spirit from wagging a grateful tail.

February 13, 2006	#9
Mischka Tomatoville® Administrator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: The Bay State Posts: 3,207	There is not a problem with my dish soap recommendation of 1 teaspoon per gallon. :wink: There are six (6) teaspoons to 1 fluid ounce. (U.S.) 1 gallon (U.S.) = 128 fluid ounces. 1 gallon (U.S.) = 768 teaspoons. This far exceeds a 50/1 mix ratio. As a footnote, all of the "natural" brands of dish soap are made with corn and/or soy and/or coconut derived surfactants. Many of the ones without the "natural" claim are also made this way. __________________ Mischka One last word of farewell, Dear Master and Mistress. Whenever you visit my grave, say to yourselves with regret but also with happiness in your hearts at the remembrance of my long happy life with you: "Here lies one who loved us and whom we loved." No matter how deep my sleep I shall hear you, and not all the power of death can keep my spirit from wagging a grateful tail.

February 13, 2006	#2
markferon Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Maryland Posts: 68	flour is a mild organic solution to your problem.

February 13, 2006	#6
Rena Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Warm Springs, GA Posts: 1,421	What I have found in the greenhouse is that if you feed your plants (feed your soil) I do not get a bug problem. Get thee some compost and make sure you are fert at least once a week if you are doing containers. A light foliar food would also be good. It is like the bugs know that the plants are weak. White flies are really bad about this. best wishes and good luck OH and nasturtiums grow in poor soil. :wink: EDIT::::EDIT :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: I was not saying this would cure bugs I was saying that this would help keep them at bay.

February 13, 2006	#8
travis Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Evansville, IN Posts: 2,984	Plant something nearby that the bugs like better ... sometimes that's a tomato with higher brix or whatever the particular bugs are after on the tomato you want to keep chemical-free. You ought to know by now which varieties attract the most bugs. Sacrifice one. Whatever it takes. Then when the bugs congregate on the sacrificial plant, spray the bejeebers out of it with something potent sold by Dow, Monsanto, or whomever makes that evil stuff (Sevin works for me). Do your sprayin' when there's least chance for drift ... like early in the mornin' when the dew is still on the plant and there isn't any wind and the bugs are still snoozin' in the cool temps. When the infestation is under control, dispose of the goat plant and the top inch or so of soil around it. Wear gloves, wash your hands, and don't pick your schnoz. You'll probably survive. PV

February 14, 2006	#13
sweetwm007 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: yellville, arkansas Posts: 29	joz- many yrs ago when i lived in waynesboro, ga, i had some window screening [ fiberglass window screening i bought in a roll] sewn in tube shaped forms [sew the 2 opposing sides together] you can make them as long and short as you like. then when you decide on the lengths, just sew the top closed. i slipped these down over my tomato cages [ crw] and had the most blemish free, pest deprived plants and beautiful tomatoes you ever wanted to see. that was many yrs ago and i haven't done this again probably cause i move too much. they worked like a champ. no, there wasn't any shade problems and yes, there are a lot of pests in georgia! i plan on doing this again when i retire. william

March 8, 2006	#14
honu Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Hawaii Posts: 270	Mischka, Thank you for sharing your organic recipes. I have been searching for organic recipes for my battle against tomato bugs (Cyrtopeltis modestus, insect order Hemiptera, identity and symptoms (blossom drop, purple rings around new shoot stems) confirmed by a local entomologist)...I'm currently losing the battle -- they are now chewing off almost 100% of my tomato blossoms. Insecticidal soap has not worked so far, and they have multiplied like crazy. I am interested in your hot pepper spray, and wonder if it works only by direct contact, or is it effective when the insect sucks on a sprayed area, which is probably what I need, since the bugs fly on and off. Also, I agree with you that natural soap at 1 tsp per gallon is very dilute and has never harmed my plants. I have even tried 1 tsp per quart without harm on mature plants (natural soap only, like Dr. Bonner's), but only sprayed in early morning or late afternoon, and never in direct sunlight.