General information and discussion about cultivating eggplants/aubergines.
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June 29, 2008 | #1 |
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2008 Eggplant growouts - first interesting observation
As you probably figured, I don't like to do anything ordinary with respect to what I grow each year. My eggplants this year are Udmalbet (from a fruit Diane Whealy brought with her to Monticello last year and gave me - so from saved seed), Cloud Nine F2, Green Goddess F2, Ichiban F2, Antigua, Listada di Gandia, Orient Charm F3 (two plants), Louisiana Long Green (two plants), Zebra F2, and Orient Express F1.
When I grow out saved seeds from a hybrid, I look for subtle differences in the seedling color and then decide how many to grow out (crude and tiny sampling, I know, but I only have so much room!). Orient Charm F2 seed gave me two types of seedlings - about half had darker purple leaf veining - so I have one of each. With Louisiana Long Green, for some years now, I've noted that using my saved seed gives me two types of seedlings - about half have pale green stems with no purple blush at all, and half are slightly purple blushed. I finally decided to grow one of each - the slightly blushed seedlings have lavendar flowers, and the green stemmed seedlings are producing snow white flowers! I could see no variation in the Zebra or Cloud Nine or Ichiban F2 seedlings, so I am growing one of each. And I managed to get only one Green Goddess F2 to germinate, so that is what I have. I am growing Orient Express because it always produces like a machine and gives me my first eggplant; this year is no exception, I am about to pick one, it will be picked 40 days from transplant, which must be a record, and a testament both to the advantage of growing eggplant in pots, and the incredible heat we had this spring. I could only get one seedling of Listada di Gandia and Antigua to germinate, so these are growouts to get fresh seed. I do want to compare Antigua to Udmalbet - they look similar in pictures, but I suspect they are quite different. I will post pics in this thread as things develop.
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Craig |
July 12, 2008 | #2 |
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Here are eggplants I am picking thus far....Udmalbet, Listada di Gandia (sizing up), Antigua (really pretty this year), Orient Charm F3, Green Goddess F2, Orient Express F1, Lousiana Long Green (purple stem, lavendar flower), Louisiana Long Green (green stem, white flower), Ichiban F2, Zebra F2, Cloud Nine F2.
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Craig |
July 13, 2008 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
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just an early morning thought.....when looking for the color variations in seedlings it might help to use infrared or ultraviolet.
your eggplants look great. mine are still 8" but theyre coming around. our spring here in MI was long, cold and wet. |
July 13, 2008 | #4 |
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I should have finished my thoughts on the posts above - so what have I found interesting about these growouts?
Udmalbet is clearly different from the other striped varieties in that the white background has a clear greenish tint. We've not eaten one yet, but there are some reports that it is more bitter - anyone here confirm or debate that point? The F2s are encouraging - Cloud 9 and Zebra both look very much like the hybrid. Green Goddess - not sure, since I forgot what the F1 looked like - very similar to LA Long Green in shape. The two LA Long greens with the different stem and flower colors appear to be producing identical fruit. Ichiban F2 is a bit different from the hybrid - more green in the developing fruits, surface is dull, not shiny. I need to see which Orient Charm F2 I used to create these two F3 plants - there were two distinct colors in the two F2s I grew out.
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July 13, 2008 | #5 |
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Craig-I didnt like Udmalbet at all. It was bitter. I will not grow that one again.
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July 23, 2008 | #6 |
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Had Udmalbet last night. Sliced it in half (unpeeled) and cooked it,cut side down, in a little olive oil. Wasn't bitter as all. Very creamy. Got an email from a friend tonight I gave one to yesterday. She liked it as well.
Also growing Tango F1 from Johnny's. Haven't grown Cloud Nine or other whites so I can't compare but the plants are productive and the eggplants tasty. |
July 7, 2009 | #7 |
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Craig,
I know this may sound like a stupid question, but how do you grow eggplant: in containers or in ground? Do the plants need staking or do you let them sprawl? Do you have any pictures of full grown plants? Wondering how big they get... |
July 7, 2009 | #8 |
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Eggplant are kind of like sweet peppers - they do OK in the soil for me, but thrive in pots (they seem to love hot roots!). You can use a short stake (3-4 feet), the plants don't spread all that much - top out at 2-3 feet tall (except a few that can get to 4 feet). The only problem, really, are flea beetles early in the season.
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July 8, 2009 | #9 |
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Hi Craig,
I'm further North than you, every year I do eggplants and they just don't do well at all in the ground. I did again this year, but I also potted up 4 plants and the ones in the pots are at least triple the size to the ones in the ground. From now on its eggplants in pots for me. Alberta |
July 9, 2009 | #10 |
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OK, a related eggplant question.
Years ago I tried to save some eggplant seed. I used fruit I had left on the plant extra long so the seeds would be mature. The fruit was nearly to the rotting stage. But I was never able to get seed that was more than about 5% viable. What do I need to do to get decent seed if I want to try again. Carol Last edited by Wi-sunflower; July 9, 2009 at 10:25 AM. Reason: spelling |
July 9, 2009 | #11 |
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After checking out your pics, the Ichiban looks different than what I've grown from purchased seeds in the past. Mine always get a bit of a thicker "bulb" at the blossom end.
Carol |
July 9, 2009 | #12 |
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Hi, Carol - Best thing to do is to let the eggplant go yellow, not all the way to rotting - so they swell, get their mature color, then after a bit they turn various shades of yellow. Don't let them go fully yellow - just 75%, say. They should be softer at this stage, but not mushy. I fill a bowl with water, cut the eggplant into quarters, and place the pieces under the water and run my fingers along the seed lines, freeing them into the water. If the seeds lave lots of stuck flesh, squeeze the mass and rub the seeds together. Pour off the floating flesh - add water, repeat until the seeds sit at the bottom of mostly clear water. Immature/bad seeds will often float to the surface. Drain off with a sieve, rinse, then spread on unglazed paper plates - let dry for a week or so. Separate the seed mass, let dry another week - depending upon the variety, I've had success rates of germination of from 10-100% - I think the trick is getting them at just the right time....
About Ichiban - this is an F2 selection (in the pic) - it differs from the hybrid in having a different shape (slightly) and less dark color.
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July 10, 2009 | #13 |
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That sounds not too much unlike my current tomato saving technique. I'm not really sure exactly how I tried it years ago other than I know I left the fruiit get very to over mature.
This year I don't have much eggplant in the garden as I killed most of the seedlings in the greenhouse shortly after they sprouted. If I have some interesting varieties next year I will probably try again. Carol |
July 11, 2009 | #14 |
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Craig,
I'm wondering if some people who found Udmalbet bitter waited to long to eat them. I know the coloration threw me off and I waited too long to pick the first couple last year. Once I picked them I realized my error. Remy
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July 13, 2009 | #15 |
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recruiterg - Instead of a stake I use those little round cone shaped "tomato" cages. They're too small for tomato plants, but IMHO work great for peppers and eggplants.
Randy |
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