Rootstock for helping Brandywine, Canada

[herbeapuce]

Hi
I am looking for the best rootstock to try to improve my 2024 yellow Brandywine yield. i'm in zone 5a, Montreal, Canada
looking preferably for an Canadian online store, but will look at US if I need to
looking for 50 seeds or so, so shipping has to be reasonable
was thinking Multifort.... what do you think? not sure I can get those to Canada without very expensive shipping
Any suggestions is greatly appreciated
thx for your help !

[MrsJustice]

I only use the Rootstock System with my Tree Transplants. I will try it with my Tomato this year as I sold out of my Black Tomato Plants fast last year, and willing to try this system. I use only Native Farming Secrets for my Rootstock Systems. Explain how you use this system on Tomato Plants and I can help you out a little.

Rootstock Meaning; A rootstock is part of a plant, often an underground part, from which new above-ground growth can be produced. It could also be described as a stem with a well developed root system, to which a bud from another plant is grafted. It can refer to a rhizome or underground stem.[1] In grafting, it refers to a plant, sometimes just a stump, which already has an established, healthy root system, onto which a cutting or a bud from another plant is grafted. In some cases, such as vines of grapes and other berries, cuttings may be used for rootstocks, the roots being established in nursery conditions before planting them out. The plant part grafted onto the rootstock is usually called the scion. The scion is the plant that has the properties that propagator desires above ground, including the photosynthetic activity and the fruit or decorative properties. The rootstock is selected for its interaction with the soil, providing the roots and the stem to support the new plant, obtaining the necessary soil water and minerals, and resisting the relevant pests and diseases. After a few weeks, the tissues of the two parts will have grown together, eventually forming a single plant. After some years, it may be difficult to detect the site of the graft although the product always contains the components of two genetically different plants.

[KarenO]

I think you might be better off just finding a tomato better suited to a Canadian garden than the venerable but late and disease susceptible brandywine. Turns out to be an expensive plant that way.
Curious What disease are you trying to outrun with hybrid rootstock in Montreal?

KarenO

[ddsack]

I personally have little practical knowledge of grafting tomatoes, but our user here b54red used to post often about grafting tomatoes in the south for disease and may have info of use to you.


Here are a couple threads

http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...ting+rootstock

http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...light=grafting

You should be able to find more by using the advanced search function here and his user name b54red with "rootstock" or "grafting" terms.

[MrsJustice]

I am impressed that people will use Heirloom Tomato Planta in Grafting; knowing the seeds will be changing, even if it is to improve the Plants, Amen!!

For me, there are other ways of Protecting Your Heirloom Plants for Natural Elements. Keeping the Seeds Pure is my Mission.

I found this new article. https://extension.psu.edu/to-graft-or-not-to-graft

But I am impressed by you'all again, Amen!!

[b54red]

As a long time user of rootstock tomatoes in grafting for disease I have found the one that suits me the best for the problems I face down here in lower Alabama. I can't understand grafting in Canada because the soil diseases are so rare up there.

I guess you could graft for more vigorous plants and I have experienced that with some rootstock but rarely got a lot more production of fruit. Some plants when grafted to some rootstock will have a huge increase in vine growth and vigor. The only ones I experienced that phenomena with were from Paramount Seed. Multifort and Estamino were the only two that worked at all down here for me. I have heard that Maxifort is also good at improving vigor.

You do realize that you need to start your seeds about a month early to be able to come close to planting at your usual time. I start my seed for grafting between Christmas and the end of January and rarely get grafted plants out before the end of March. If you have a good heated and cooled greenhouse you can control planting time better than I can.

Bill

[herbeapuce]

Thanks to everyone for your help .

Originally Posted by KarenO

I think you might be better off just finding a tomato better suited to a Canadian garden than the venerable but late and disease susceptible brandywine. Turns out to be an expensive plant that way.
Curious What disease are you trying to outrun with hybrid rootstock in Montreal?


KarenO

Hi KarenO, I agree with you that a better suited tomato is the way to go. specially now that I read that grafting gives almost no improvement for leaf diseases. And over here it is mostly blight that I know is killing our plants toward the end of season
still I like grafting just for the fun... I grow like 20 plants per year, mostly different species, and I like to challenge it gives me.

Originally Posted by ddsack

I personally have little practical knowledge of grafting tomatoes, but our user here b54red used to post often about grafting tomatoes in the south for disease and may have info of use to you.

Thank you Dee, i will look into it.

Originally Posted by MrsJustice

I am impressed that people will use Heirloom Tomato Planta in Grafting; knowing the seeds will be changing, even if it is to improve the Plants, Amen!!

I am not aware of grafting having any effect on seeds. I also believe that change is good sometimes. Regards

[Alfisol]

Originally Posted by KarenO

I think you might be better off just finding a tomato better suited to a Canadian garden than the venerable but late and disease susceptible brandywine. Turns out to be an expensive plant that way.
Curious What disease are you trying to outrun with hybrid rootstock in Montreal?

KarenO

Hi Karen - what would you suggest as a replacement for brandywine? I have had issues in my garden that appear to be either verticillum or fusarium not sure which or if its both. I've been thinking of trying grafting out this year but as you said its expensive.

[eyolf]

Old thread: I know.

I'm in Northern MN: similar climate and have been consistently disappointed with the Brandywines: low production and what I get comes rather late when nights are getting cool.
In my opinion, flavor begins to really go south then.

Last year, I tried two varieties from trades that really amazed me. One was an insanely productive small determinate that probably doesn't interest you, but "Astrakhansie" probably fits the requirement, and was a bit earlier.

A quick Google search shows a few small seed houses selling it, but I'm not sure anyone in Canada has it.

Message me if you want to try and can't find seeds.

Sent from my motorola edge (2022) using Tapatalk

[Labradors2]

I gave up growing Brandywine years ago because it's so darned late and the tomatoes always rotted before they ripened. A better choice for me is Little Lucky. BW is a parent, so the taste is great. It's smaller, so isn't as late, and no problems with rotting. It's also quite productive .

[PaulF]

Sorry, just saw this thread and then started a list of pink/red Brandywinelike varieties when I remembered you were talking about yellow Brandywine.

For a 5a zone many varieties of Brandywine would be too late. Many Brandywine varieties are not great producers but folks enjoy the tomatoes so muck production is not a factor.

There are perhaps some alternatives that would fit your growing area. We are in 5b but in the middle of the country and these may not fit your needs, but they have been very good for me.

Apricot Brandywine is similar but earlier than Yellow. Wisconsin 55 Gold is a good cooler area choice. Yellow Giant Belgium may work and one of my favorites is Lenny and Gracie's Yellow Kentucky Heirloom. This is a mid-season variety with excellent flavor and very productive.

I am not a grafter...too much work for me so I would rather find a variety that could be grown in the way I have always done it and plant the whole thing in the ground. Good luck.

[MrsJustice]

Originally Posted by PaulF

Sorry, just saw this thread and then started a list of pink/red Brandywinelike varieties when I remembered you were talking about yellow Brandywine.

For a 5a zone many varieties of Brandywine would be too late. Many Brandywine varieties are not great producers but folks enjoy the tomatoes so muck production is not a factor.

There are perhaps some alternatives that would fit your growing area. We are in 5b but in the middle of the country and these may not fit your needs, but they have been very good for me.

Apricot Brandywine is similar but earlier than Yellow. Wisconsin 55 Gold is a good cooler area choice. Yellow Giant Belgium may work and one of my favorites is Lenny and Gracie's Yellow Kentucky Heirloom. This is a mid-season variety with excellent flavor and very productive.

I am not a grafter...too much work for me so I would rather find a variety that could be grown in the way I have always done it and plant the whole thing in the ground. Good luck.

Hello Everybody;
Paul are All Brandwines; considered Heirloom Tomatoes?