How many 'maters...

Joz · February 7, 2006

.... can go in a half-barrel?

I've got a zillion (seems like) seeds started, some determinate, some indeterminate. I don't know how big they'll really get.

I read somewhere on here that someone had put upwards of 5 plants in a half whiskey barrel?? I was planning on 3-4 each (3 indeterminates, or 4 determinates), but if I can stuff more in there, I'm willing to do so.

Also... have got several 16-18" x 20" tall (10-12 gallon?)square pots. Was planning on putting 2 sweet bell pepper plants in each, and 2 dwarfish (< 4') tomatoes in each. Would this be too crowded, d'ya think?

Thanks muchly...

Suze · February 7, 2006

I tend to prefer 'bigger is better' when it comes to containers, and like to give plants plenty of room. Also, I don't care to water more than a couple or so times a week; just doesn't work with my schedule, and want to be able to take trips and such. Having said that, no more than:

1-2 Indets, or
2-3 dets

Be sure and mulch, it makes an enormous difference as to watering requirements. I prefer 2-3 inches of wheat straw mulch, others have mentioned using pecan shells and such, which would also work.

Now, if you're willing to water the containers more often, or perhaps set up drip irrigation, you could get away with more plants per container.

**mdvpc** · February 7, 2006

Joz-I have put as many as 6 plants in a 1/2 whiskey barrel. I would probably put 4 now, if I was using them. But you have to pay attention to the watering requirements like Suze said-in La, I assume you get plenty of rain. Michael

Joz · February 7, 2006

If it's merely a question of watering, I'll stuff as many in as will fit.

I live in New Orleans, and containers MUST be watered at LEAST once a day. It's so warm, if I'm to have any hope of keeping the temperatures down around my plants (as well as keeping them hydrated), I'll be watering each and every morning.

I'll also be feeding with dilute fish emulsion or seaweed once every couple weeks.

I've only got 3 half barrels (Intended for 1 Sweet 100, 2 Red Lightning, 2 Black Pearl, 2 Tigerella, 1 Wisconsin 55, and 3 Green Zebras), 7 16" pots (2 Gold Nuggets, 1 Tommy Toes, 1 Tommy Toes Yellow, and 3 Green Grapes), 7 18" square pots (mentioned in OP, each for 2 plants of 7 varieties sweet bell peppers, as well as 2 each Patio Princess, Silvery Fir Tree, Tiny Tim, or Small Fry), 7 12" pots (assorted same dwarfs previously mentioned).

I've had to do a lot of very specific planning.

I'm assuming that many of these larger varieties are going to top out around 4-5 feet (I know the Sweet 100 is likely going to sprawl endlessly). If my general size assumptions are off, PLEASE let me know.

Most of these varieties are completely new to me this year.

I only hope there's something I can do to keep the pollen from overheating. I tend to think that's what's kept my plants from producing in years past (I've never been very good at this, but I try every year, regardless). They live on a covered NE facing balcony, and will get sun between dawn and around 2:pm (7-ish hours?). The temps tend to stay in the lower 90's all summer long (which goes from April to November), but we frequently get days in the high 90's. And the humidity is always above 80%.

I can locate the plants to the other side of the balcony, where they would get sun between 7 and 10, and then again between 4 and 7. I don't really know which sun schedule would work better.

Anyway.

Thanks for the info, and for any additional info that gets offered up.

**mdvpc** · February 7, 2006

You are going to need to fertilize once a week and with more than a dilute mixture-the foliar that you are talking about is fine, but you may want to put some espoma tomato tone in or osmocoate 14-14-14 in. Container tomatoes, especially if they are "crowded" need more fert than toms in the ground.

You need to try and get your plants out early, when the average temps are appropriate. If you wait too long, your pollen gets cooked, if you set out too early, you have to worry about a freeze.

Stay in touch and ask any question you have.

Joz · February 7, 2006

Have just recently realized this Deep South dual-planting theory. Am running a bit late for spring, but will try anyway, and will definitely get the fall crop seeds in on time.

I have friends who've got last-years-plants still producing. Winter's been crazy warm this year.

lubadub · February 21, 2006

When you start a new season using containers do you empty out the containers and start over again or do you just partially empty the container and then add new materials?

**nctomatoman** · February 21, 2006

Because tomatoes are so sensitive to various afflictions, I go with fresh mix each season - and bleach my pots prior to filling each year. If I gardened up north, I may not go to such great lengths.

February 7, 2006	#1
Joz Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: New Orleans, LA Posts: 27	How many 'maters... .... can go in a half-barrel? I've got a zillion (seems like) seeds started, some determinate, some indeterminate. I don't know how big they'll really get. I read somewhere on here that someone had put upwards of 5 plants in a half whiskey barrel?? I was planning on 3-4 each (3 indeterminates, or 4 determinates), but if I can stuff more in there, I'm willing to do so. Also... have got several 16-18" x 20" tall (10-12 gallon?)square pots. Was planning on putting 2 sweet bell pepper plants in each, and 2 dwarfish (< 4') tomatoes in each. Would this be too crowded, d'ya think? Thanks muchly...

February 7, 2006	#3
mdvpc Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 4,386	Joz-I have put as many as 6 plants in a 1/2 whiskey barrel. I would probably put 4 now, if I was using them. But you have to pay attention to the watering requirements like Suze said-in La, I assume you get plenty of rain. Michael __________________ Michael

February 7, 2006	#4
Joz Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: New Orleans, LA Posts: 27	too much information. :) If it's merely a question of watering, I'll stuff as many in as will fit. I live in New Orleans, and containers MUST be watered at LEAST once a day. It's so warm, if I'm to have any hope of keeping the temperatures down around my plants (as well as keeping them hydrated), I'll be watering each and every morning. I'll also be feeding with dilute fish emulsion or seaweed once every couple weeks. I've only got 3 half barrels (Intended for 1 Sweet 100, 2 Red Lightning, 2 Black Pearl, 2 Tigerella, 1 Wisconsin 55, and 3 Green Zebras), 7 16" pots (2 Gold Nuggets, 1 Tommy Toes, 1 Tommy Toes Yellow, and 3 Green Grapes), 7 18" square pots (mentioned in OP, each for 2 plants of 7 varieties sweet bell peppers, as well as 2 each Patio Princess, Silvery Fir Tree, Tiny Tim, or Small Fry), 7 12" pots (assorted same dwarfs previously mentioned). I've had to do a lot of very specific planning. I'm assuming that many of these larger varieties are going to top out around 4-5 feet (I know the Sweet 100 is likely going to sprawl endlessly). If my general size assumptions are off, PLEASE let me know. Most of these varieties are completely new to me this year. I only hope there's something I can do to keep the pollen from overheating. I tend to think that's what's kept my plants from producing in years past (I've never been very good at this, but I try every year, regardless). They live on a covered NE facing balcony, and will get sun between dawn and around 2:pm (7-ish hours?). The temps tend to stay in the lower 90's all summer long (which goes from April to November), but we frequently get days in the high 90's. And the humidity is always above 80%. I can locate the plants to the other side of the balcony, where they would get sun between 7 and 10, and then again between 4 and 7. I don't really know which sun schedule would work better. Anyway. Thanks for the info, and for any additional info that gets offered up.

February 7, 2006	#5
mdvpc Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 4,386	You are going to need to fertilize once a week and with more than a dilute mixture-the foliar that you are talking about is fine, but you may want to put some espoma tomato tone in or osmocoate 14-14-14 in. Container tomatoes, especially if they are "crowded" need more fert than toms in the ground. You need to try and get your plants out early, when the average temps are appropriate. If you wait too long, your pollen gets cooked, if you set out too early, you have to worry about a freeze. Stay in touch and ask any question you have. __________________ Michael

February 21, 2006	#8
nctomatoman Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7 Posts: 10,385	Because tomatoes are so sensitive to various afflictions, I go with fresh mix each season - and bleach my pots prior to filling each year. If I gardened up north, I may not go to such great lengths. __________________ Craig

February 7, 2006	#2
Suze Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 3,027	I tend to prefer 'bigger is better' when it comes to containers, and like to give plants plenty of room. Also, I don't care to water more than a couple or so times a week; just doesn't work with my schedule, and want to be able to take trips and such. Having said that, no more than: 1-2 Indets, or 2-3 dets Be sure and mulch, it makes an enormous difference as to watering requirements. I prefer 2-3 inches of wheat straw mulch, others have mentioned using pecan shells and such, which would also work. Now, if you're willing to water the containers more often, or perhaps set up drip irrigation, you could get away with more plants per container.

February 21, 2006	#7
lubadub Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: PA Posts: 169	When you start a new season using containers do you empty out the containers and start over again or do you just partially empty the container and then add new materials?