General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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#1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Florida (East Central Coast)
Posts: 78
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Has anybody here every forgot to include the lime to their earthtainer/earthbox/etc, and added it after the fact? Maybe by some clever means? (a liquid suspension, perhaps)
I use a little different method that involves some compost (yeah, I know, rule breaker) that feeds and buffers. The plants look absolutely fantastic. I just don't want any surprises later. Thank you in advance. |
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#2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SoCal Inland
Posts: 2,705
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Lime is added because SWC rely on peat, which is known to become acidic. These conditions can impede your plants ability to utilize the nutrients and result in BER and other nutrient related issues. A small amount of pickling lime mixed with water and added to the watering system is a treatment if you get BER. Not sure that I would try that as a replacement for the missing dolomite lime.
Compost is a wonderful ingredient and helps many plants grow great. Unfortunately in an earthbox or SWC situation it results in your growing media turning to muck quicker than it might otherwise. Not a problem if you don't mind replacing your growing medium. |
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#3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Be careful too much lime can be bad too.
A little will go a long way too much will make the soil alkali and your plants wont grow. If you can keep the ph below 7 but above 5.5 or 6. Worth |
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#4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
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Duplicate post from dumb smartphone.
Worth |
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#5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 281
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You can pour 1 tsp calcium nitrate down the watering tube once a week. They say it helps prevent BER.
Irv |
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#6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SoCal Inland
Posts: 2,705
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Irv - I use Calcium Nitrate weekly but the lime in a SWC is really to offset acidity in the mix. If it gets too acid, as peat does, the plants cannot use the calcium.
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#7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
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From looking at the thread title I thought you may have been making mojitos.
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#8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 281
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Thanks, Linda. I wonder if it's too late to just scratch dolomite in the top few inches of the mix. I know it takes a while for it to break down before it's really useful. I have also heard that pickling lime is considered a one time only fix for BER. Any thoughts on that?
Worth, I don't drink. What's a Mojito taste like? I love pirate movies so I've always wondered what rum tastes like but don't want to try it because of the alcohol. I wonder if they make near rum like near beer? Irv |
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#9 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
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Thanks to a high quality rum of course. I make fake mojitos all the time. Just muddle the mint leaves in a little soda add sugar squeezed lime and the rest of the soda and ice. No alcohol. Makes a very refreshing drink. ![]() Worth |
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#10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SoCal Inland
Posts: 2,705
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Actually, op could use Bonide brand garden lime instead, which is a hydrated type lime and breaks down much quicker than dolomite. Its in a bright yellow bag and available at places like True Value Hardware. We got into a long discussion about it more than once over on the EB forum. Use care when applying not to breath it or touch it. |
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#11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Florida (East Central Coast)
Posts: 78
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I am not concerned about BER. Just about the acidity of the peat, which I'm not sure that I need to be worried about, at this point. From past soil tests, it seems that our water, over tme, tends to take the PH the other way. Just not sure exactly how fast that happens.
It probably wouldn't be the best time to scratch it in at the top, seeing that the plants have already laid down a pretty good network of feeder roots. I guess I'm just going to have to take what I get this season. As for the compost, It's a mix that I make, using a 1:1:1 mixture of peat/compost/growstones at the top 2" of my container. The rest of my container is the "regular" mix, (3:2:2, pine bark fines/peat/growstones) except for pure peat around the "wick") Last edited by solid7; October 25, 2014 at 08:03 AM. |
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#12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
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I've used this product before in containers but not on SWC's.
http://www.aggrand.com/store/products/lime.aspx Ami
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#13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
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If your plants are looking good, then you may not need to adjust the PH. If your plants start to fade from PH issues you can use a bit of wood ash to neutralize the PH. It acts very quickly and also supplies potassium and minerals for fruit set.
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#14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
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Potassium is also known as potash because it was found to be in the ashes of burned potted plants.
Again too much wood ash can raise the ph too much so if you already have an alkaline soil you don't want the use it. Unless you are growing Yucca. ![]() My rule of thumb is if the plants are growing well leave them alone. Worth |
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#15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Florida (East Central Coast)
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Great advice on the wood ash. I just happen to keep lots of it around, as my bananas love it. I always screen out my burnt up lump charcoal and wood, to re-use the bigger pieces, make biochar with the smaller, and then the finest particles go in an ash bucket. So that's a totally workable option.
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