A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
April 23, 2016 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: SC
Posts: 26
|
Composting
I grow assorted veggies to include tomato plants in containers every summer. Is it possible or advisable to compost the contents from the containers at the end of the season or must/should I discard?
|
April 24, 2016 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,049
|
I believe you could compost if the contents are entirely disease free.
|
April 24, 2016 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: selmer, tn
Posts: 2,944
|
I Use mine over and over after I refresh it with new additions; works for me.
Jon |
April 24, 2016 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: SC
Posts: 26
|
Composting
I am concerned aboutI about disease too. Read last night about a woman who puts her container contents in black plastic bags and bakes them in the sun until they break down. Do y'all believe this method would this kill any soil born disease? Thank you for your responses.
Last edited by sukisasi; April 24, 2016 at 08:41 AM. Reason: spelling |
April 24, 2016 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: ny
Posts: 1,219
|
Yes I do think solarizing the potting mix is effective. I believe clear plastic was foudn to be more effective than black plastic
__________________
Subirrigated Container gardening (RGGS) in NY, Zone 7! |
April 24, 2016 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: SC
Posts: 26
|
Thanks So Much
I will use the clear bag method. I find it difficult to trash the contents and purchasing new every year is expensive. Going to try my hand at composting this year. Thanks for the clarification on bag type. Sure I will have questions on composting too. Great bunch of helpful people here.
|
April 24, 2016 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
|
I have a three bin system that is turned somewhat, in the easy months. Transferred over to the second bin, yada yada. Grass and leaf mater piled on the side in a pile to add for balance...it does get hot but mostly passive lazy. The final third bin bakes, often covered, but goes into bags for solar heat. Ready and waiting when needed. I use smaller clear bags about the size of a kitchen waste bag. Easy to grab, not too heavy.
My first bin with kitchen scraps ha an added interior ring of chicken wire twice almost three fold ring to avoid those corners in the square bin. (food scraps want to roll to those outer edges so the round ring keeps them 'inside'. I can lift it up if getting full. Then re-peat the process. Non of the purchased spin barrel systems work that well. You really need 6 of them to get what they claim. Too much work. |
April 24, 2016 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: ny
Posts: 1,219
|
I usually dump the container contents out, sort through the big roots etc and then return to the container for solarizing or just leave it on the tarp/cart with a clear over over it.
__________________
Subirrigated Container gardening (RGGS) in NY, Zone 7! |
April 24, 2016 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: SC
Posts: 26
|
luigiwu,
It's for sure I am a newbie at composting. Going after it seriously this year. Tips on how to get started will be helpful.. Thanks |
April 25, 2016 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
|
You can google image search for lots of pics that then link to articles...
Preferred for home backyard composting is the three bin 3ftx3ftx3ft like this. This looks identical to ours...found in this rather complete article, http://www.finegardening.com/6-ways-make-great-compost A cheaper and fast way to begin would be to get some chicken wire or hardware cloth and make a ring or two. Start the layering process right away and no building. And yet another satisfying way is to get a worm bin. We have one of those as well and works quickly. I keep it in the garage all winter when temps dip below freezing. Lots of DIY methods but i just sprung for the three tier system. Worms do all the work. |
April 25, 2016 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
|
And my worm composter. They prefer kitchen scraps and softer garden scraps...no woody stems so it is limiting but good end product.
The only tool i use is a good strong fork for turning the big bins and an aerator, often called a 'wing' turner. No method gives a finished product as fast as articles suggest unless you tend and turn and aerate often. Depending on climate you may need to give it some water or cover if too much rain. |
April 25, 2016 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: SC
Posts: 26
|
Quote:
|
|
April 25, 2016 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
|
Great! Plans are posted on-line somewhere. We winged it but we are builders. I see you are south. Even better to use the open back for air circulation. The front boards need plenty of room in their 'slots'. Removing the top few is handy for turning and moving from one bin to the next. The boards will swell a bit and may warp a bit over time so resting loose in the front slots is key.
You will read how important 3x3x3 is and how things break down. Getting something going well ahead of the built bins is a super idea. If you really want to get cute you can get coffee grounds from a local coffee shop and a juice bar has all the veg roughage from juicing. I don't do that very often but years ago we did it as a co-op group that was connected to a coffee shop juice place. A community garden situation. |
April 25, 2016 | #14 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
|
Quote:
|
|
April 27, 2016 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
|
Shoveling? A lot? 3-5 min 2-3 times a week...
Or do like my dad who is 87. Two bin system. Dumps and covers with grass and leaves. Passive 'no touch' method that just takes a bit more time to break down. |
|
|